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Going through what needs doing in the kitchen, new work surfaces, sink, tap,and doors i think is enough to solve most of the problems.
So i have measured the work surfaces, and the doors.
I am guessing work surface size is what it is and as long as you leave a bit for expansion can't go that wrong?
However the kitchen doors, i note that on the back the doors have been routed out for hinges, are the positions standard, are these done by the fitter, etc etc.
What i also have is a small piece of dividing wall*, that in my head makes sense to finish in the same material as the doors? it is about 300x900mm, what are the options for attaching a panel to it, so that it matches the actual doors?
* kitchen is extension and where they knocked through from old to new, there is part of the original external wall in situ, it is currently supporting the end of one work surface but looks wrong in its current finish on one face.
Haven't decided whether to DIY, or order bits and find someone to install etc.
Any pics?
If you're lucky, your doors will be a standard size - makes choice of doors larger and job cheaper.
Most door suppliers will drill for hinge fitting, or you can DIY.
Shouldn't be a problem to get a 300x900 panel made up, or a larger door cut down to size.
no pics, as for size i have found a match so know i can get something, 497wide various heights
Normally you find each manufacture will have a different centre of hole to the outer edge
so you can't match.
What I have done in the past is to re position the hinge plate to match the new holes on the doors
pretty simple.
thanks, have recorded the hinge centres on the current doors so something else to bare in mind.
Generally speaking kitchen units follow the same dimensional standards with widths of: 300, 400, 500, 600, 800 and 1000 mm. As such, replacement doors widely available from places such as B&Q, Howdens etc, are made to fit these standard carcass sizes. Although you'll find that most 1000 and 800mm units use two doors of 500 and 400mm respectively.
As for the hinges, IME, the concealed cabinet hinges commonly used also follow dimensional standards. Where they do alter is whether the doors are 'inset', i.e, the door fits within a frame or the carcass itself, or whether the doors are fitted 'overlay', where the closed door conceals the edges of the carcass. Most off the shelf kitchens use the overlay method.
When replacing or renewing doors, always go the extra and fit new hinges. There are lots of options and quality depends on price, you can also choose soft close as well.
For hinges, try ironmongerydirect.com, almost a bewildering choice but their phone support is excellent and their prices very competitive.
worked in a kitchen company many years ago.
the basic door sizes height wise are:
890 - Tall unit door size or tall appliance (fridge freezer)
720 - Standard door size
570 - Standard door size - drawer line (drawer above it)
140 - drawer
285 - Pan drawer
your standard widths are:
300 (295mm)
400 (395mm)
500 (495mm)
600 (595mm)
A door manufacturer will do all door heights in all widths.
but each manufacturer also makes them slightly different, some make them 715 high, some 720. some are 560, some are 570. you might not think 10mm makes a difference, but your wife will notice 😉
If you order the doors off diykitchens they will rent you a hinge hole drilling jig for £30.
I bought one as I fit kitchens as my job and they make life so easy!
It's the height that is important with regard to the doors as unless they are custom doors the widths will all be about the same.
Thanks so far, considering it is a small house and ex rental, I suspect that the kitchen will be fairly "standard" and cheap when put in.
So far, the doors are overlay and measure 497mm wide on 500mm carcasses, the hinges are 85mm up from the bottom of the doors, one exception has the hinges at 135mm(bigger door) most units are c700mm high,
I am guessing here, width, a smidge less than carcass to give clearance for the hinges, Height, enough to hide the whole carcass? but not so much that it fouls on anything above or below?
On the hinge front, do they allow for adjustment vertically? If I drill a hole and mount the hinge, but decide I need to move the door up a couple of mm is this possible? OR do I need to be exact about where the holes are drilled?
One final point, the current sink unit has fake draw fronts, two of them, it makes sense to me to use a single 1000mm front rather than two 500mm draw fronts. Is this possible, I know I can improvise, just the edge details of cabinet units will be a bit different to a plain piece of "wood".
Yeah the hinges have 3 way adjustment. Up/down back/front and side ways.
1000mm panel wold be fine..
700mm cab height sounds small, most are around 720mm with the doors being a shade smaller.
from memory the doors were 715tall I think? but there was also a couple of other sizes, 1.?m and 500ish?? might have been 600? or was that the opening for the oven....
lots of numbers written down and can't remember them all.
But thanks, just need to have a chat about colours and styles and go from there.
One other detail that occurs to me, the ends? currently white carcasses with white ends, if for some reason I want to change the colour to muddy brown to hide the cats paw prints! can this be done other than by painting?
End panels?
With that type of hinge you get 2mm approx movement up or down or in and out
@russ, 18mm carcass and then stick another 18mm panel on the end? just seems a bit heavy?
Using end panels at the end of carcass runs is a great way to finish off and also provides a neat butting for the plinth.
Most kitchen designers and manufacturers spec this type of design.
End panels are widely used as a lot of kitchen supliers only offer a couple of carcass colours.
I personally prefer them.
If the carcass is 270mm deep the end panels would be 290mm
So the end panel stick ouot, but with a surface mounted door, is flush with the front of the door? Current kitchen is white so no end panels.
I assume to fit would be either glue or drill through from inside the carcass and screw it on?
Will have to think, one end of the carcass is currently butted up to a door frame.
Yeah flush with door.
If your replacing pelmet you can make the panels longer than the units and but the pelmet instead of having a return mitre.
ie;- if the cabs are 720 and pelmet 45 make the panels 770.
Fix with 30mm screws from the inside.