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Is anybody able to offer some advice, cars been in the local garage 2 weeks now and its starting to stress me out.
2013 Honda CRV 1.6 dtec.
Fault codes:
P210A - Throttle Actuator B Control Motor. Error Message : Circuit/Open.
P211A - Throttle Valve Control Module B. Error Message : Stuck Open
Local garage replaced the throttle body, cleared the codes and all looked good. Took it for a test drive and one of the codes came back (i don't know which one, should have asked).
Could the new throttle need aligning or some reset performing?
Am i wasting my time with this garage and just suck it up and pay Honda.
Thanks
get Honda or an independent specialist to look at it. That's what I'd do. Would a car electrician be able to sort it for you?
I would have thought you need someone with Honda Diagnostic software anyhow with the electrical knowledge to fix it too.
Most throttles do a self-check (sweep from fully shut to fully open) either as you open the door or as soon as you turn the ignition on anyway.
They should be able to run most tests a main dealer can over EODB, just depends on whether they a) have the correct modules for the software and b) know how to use it.
Thank you, ive looked for a specialist but none in the local area. The garage say they have checked with 3 different code readers and they all come back with the same codes, they are going to check with another device which allows a 3rd party to log in and inspect further than what they can do.
I read that some throttles you have to unplug the battery and then do a alignment, rev to 3k etc but no idea if this is required.
Most electronic throttles require a reset/learn procedure. Some are basic on off, some require a specific procedure to be carried out with software, sometimes there is a pedal/ignition procedure (on/off/open/close/set rpm/time/temp etc) you can carry out to reset without the software.
Manufacturer specific software tends to be more useful for diagnostics compared to generic code readers. eg Honda HDS HIM.
You also want to diagnose the fault, rather than just replace the part the fault code relates to.
eg; "P210A – Throttle Actuator B Control Motor. Error Message : Circuit/Open." might be a faulty TB actuator, or it could be wiring, connector, relay (if present), ecu pin, ecu fault etc etc.
If you google honda throttle reset you will get a couple of basic procedures you can try on forums/videos.
Many thanks for the info.
Update, Cars now at Honda.
Who knew that the car has what they called a 2nd butterfly valve further down, first garage didn't spot this I guess.
Anyway Honda have come up with what I can only call day light robbery of £2224 plus VAT for the part. Its a small alloy body with a motor that controls a valve.....got the part number and 2nd hand units can be sourced for about £50, looks very similar to the other throttle body. I asked if it was a mistake, nope thats the price.
I've opened a "case" with Honda UK to see if they can sort this, the cars 4 years old, 40k and full Honda history.
If not its going back to the original garage.
The £2224 figure includes the lube for when they have your trousers down!
I'd be very temped to dissemble it and to throw a can of 'carb clean' at it - worked for my civic.
Id hope the £2224 would include a holiday.
Had a bit more investigation and there is a 2nd butterfly valve attached to the inlet manifold, apparently it improves torque at low down revs.
This is the part on ebay:
How Honda can justify that cost for that part i have no idea.
No defense of thr cost but what must the fitting time be? Is it a total pig to get to and out?
My experience may be influenced by our misbehaving Passat but modern cars are going to have very short lives if costs like this are going to hit second owners. I know this may be an isolated incident but it's an outrageous bill for a car that's not very old.
That cost doesnt include labour, they said 2 hours. So the total bill would be around £3100 with the investigation costs, oh and a £8.50 gasket,
We bought the car 2nd hand when it was a year old from a Honda dealer, its actually a 2014 car, so our Warranty expired just over a year ago,
Obviously no way im going to pay this.
Things like this are often sealed units to prevent people tampering with them so you are actually replacing a whole load of kit thats working fine just to fix a tiny fault on a pot or something. If its a common fault you might find specialists who repair the original unit.