MegaSack DRAW - This year's winner is user - rgwb
We will be in touch
Well that was a crap start to a Monday. 👿
Not driven my car for a couple of weeks and prior to parking it up it was running absolutely fine. Drove it this morning and getting it in gear was a bit tricky, two miles later had to pull over as it wouldn't go into third. I then spent 15 minutes trying to get it into 2nd and drove the two miles home in 2nd.
Sympotoms are:
> Very difficult to put in gear
> Cluth pedal stiffer than ususal
It was fine before parking it up for two weeks, any ideas?
Ta.
sticky clutch plate not disengaging?
does it try and move forward with it in gear and the clutch pedal down?
What car is it?
Don't keep forcing it/trying to drive it. Depends on the car etc but could be a clutch cable? Also could even be gearbox oil etc etc etc- I'd personally get a mechanic to look at it ASAP and NOT drive it.
sticky clutch plate not disengaging?does it try and move forward with it in gear and the clutch pedal down?
No, not that I noticed.
Don't keep forcing it/trying to drive it. Depends on the car etc but could be a clutch cable? Also could even be gearbox oil etc etc etc- I'd personally get a mechanic to look at it ASAP and NOT drive it.
Got it home and jumped in the other car instead. The way it was changing gears (or not) it could be stuck there until some sort of solution is found.
Is it possible something has seized up whilst it's been sat there. Its a Mitsubishi Colt 1.1 56 plates 87k miles.
Ta.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=E7mTuAj1se4&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DE7mTuAj1se4
Basically open the shroud and take a look see if those linkages are siezed.
Could also be master/slave cylinder meaning your clutch pedals not doing anything.
Dont think colts have a clutch cable
My old s2000 did this to me. The hydrolic master cylinder was leaking slowly so when it finally emptied I was stuck in gear.
I'm not sure greasing the gear linkage will fix the clutch.
Try changing gears with the engine off. If it works OK then that can well point to something being wrong with clutch or pressure plate as opposed to the clutch cable/hydraulics.
If left for a while some clutch plates can stick to the flywheel. This gives the symptoms you have.
The good news is it can be freed off without any dis-assembly - search Google for the appropriate procedure.
Slave cylinder. Gone on 3 of my cars. I once drive from prestatyn north wales to newport with no clutch. The gears do work, the trick is not to force it, instead rev the engine above 3500 then as the engine revs due down his the gear stick in the gear you want to go lightly, as the revs drop to 2500-2000 it will slide into gear as if the clutch was engaged. I in no way am telling you to drive like this just saying it's very possible. I Drove colleagues car like this to her house a few months ago and let her drive my car as she was heavily pregnant and couldn't leave her by the side of the road.
If left for a while some clutch plates can stick to the flywheel. This gives the symptoms you have.The good news is it can be freed off without any dis-assembly - search Google for the appropriate procedure.
This sounds pretty plausable especially after the problem started after parking it up for two weeks. Will try when I get home.
niche single speed car?!
Bump for the afternoon spanner-ists.
Anything else to check to help give an accurate diagnosis?
Meant to say, it would go in reverse but not 1-5. Would it be able to do this if the clutch plate was rusted to the flywheel? Is there any visible way to see if the clutch is getting disengaged when depressing the pedal?
Cheers.
[i] Is there any visible way to see if the clutch is getting disengaged when depressing the pedal?[/i]
not easily.
some advice here;
[url= http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/clutch/ct_104.htm ]http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/clutch/ct_104.htm[/url]
clearly you need to exercise great care with all of this as you're dealing with a heavy car and unfamiliar operation of it. If you're not sure get a pro to look at it.
Ok, home now and tried and few things (without success).
> The clutch pedal is stiff towards the end of its stroke.
> The brake fluid which I'm guessing is also shared by the clutch cylinder is at a normal level.
> The car goes into gear without issue when the engine isn't started.
> When the car is started no gear can be selected, with the exception of reverse with some great difficulty.
> Thinking the clutch plate could be rusted to the flywheel, I put the car in gear and depressed the clutch, the car did not lunge forward
>I then turned off the car, put the car in gear and started the car without depressing the clutch. The car did lunge forward on this occasion.
Don't understand what's going on, it seems like the clutch is disengaging when the clutch is depressed, however it won't go into gear.
Help!
Let me know if you want me to try anything else.
Cheers.
Sell it. Buy an orange five
It won't be sharing brake and clutch fluid. It will have a separate, smaller reservoir.
It won't be sharing brake and clutch fluid. It will have a separate, smaller reservoir.
It definitely does, just checked the manual and it's a shared reservoir.
Help!
I bet the centre disc has failed, probably spat out a couple of the damper springs, or a bit of friction material has come off. That object has now been 'spun' out and is causing clutch drag.
Unfortunately if that is the case it means the gearbox has to come out, sorry about that.
(with light clutch drag, you can generally still get reverse as it is a dog gear without synchromesh on it)
Sharings reservoirs common as owt.
I still wouldnt rule out master cylinder.
How ever to avoid throwing good money after bad i suggest you let a pro take a look- only so mch you can diagnose over the internet.
I doubt the plates are stuck. Ive never had that on any car of mine - and mine get left sitting for months at a time.....
Sounds on first symptons like clutch, it would purely be a guess as to whether pressure plate or friction plate or release bearing, and the other thing is it doesn't really matter as you would replace all in one go, anything otherwise is false economy.
Would rule out master/slave hydraulics, as the pedal feels heavy.
Sounds on first symptons like clutch, it would purely be a guess as to whether pressure plate or friction plate or release bearing, and the other thing is it doesn't really matter as you would replace all in one go, anything otherwise is false economy.
Why is it these things always happen just before Xmas? 👿 Never had a clutch fail before, are we talking £££?
I stand corrected, I've never had that in any of my cars... Everyday is a school day.
Had similar on my 307 the other week. Release bearing had worn the pressure plate unevenly resulting in very similar symptoms. You can see the release arms are bent on the left
[url= http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3775/11177950203_658f4e95d2.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/windydave13/11177950203/ ]Pressure plate[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/windydave13/ ]windydave13[/url], on Flickr
I thought it was master cylinder but after battling with that it made no difference.
Cost £70 for a new clutch and a couple of evenings and a Saturday to swap it out. Nothing too technical just a pain manoeuvring the gearbox in and out.
Why is it these things always happen just before Xmas? Never had a clutch fail before, are we talking £££?
You are doing better than one guy, who's car came in for a look to see what the noise was, gearbox, plenty of oil, but nice and sparkling and full of sharp shards. Yep replacement box time for him.
As for cost for replacing your clutch kit according to eurocarparts is £183, and labour is quoted on autodata at 5.4 hours (subframe has to come of, as does the exhaust hence the slightly longer than usual labour hours). You will also need new gearbox oil as the driveshafts are potentially removed (some folks remove some don't, I personally do).