[Closed] Car Help (mechanical)

Sensor..? We had a dodgy temperature sensor on one car caused that.

Cold start sensor? How much did it cost to fix that?

We didn't, but temperature sensors are usually a few quid and a quick swap. Get the codes read first off.

I guess you replaced the battery? What voltage does the new battery have (after standing a while and before starting?)

HT leads?

HIJACK
Anyone had a diesel vacuum pump fail ?
In normal driving brakes are 'normal', but servo assist goes after 2 pumps of the pedal , so pedal becomes solid, and brake force decreases.
There is a suck on the vacuum pipe, but i have no idea how much there should be. It could also be one way valve failure in the servo booster?
vw passat 1.9tdi pd .

Coil pack breaking down ?

What car, age, mileage etc will help!

what car?
How many miles?

Dont rule out fuel pump just because it runs fine when running.

Peugeot 206 1.6 16v. Done 70k, serviced 15k ago so coming up for another service soon. Going to check the new battery in the morning before I start it but it was reading 12.6v last night having stood for just over an hour. Had thought that perhaps there was a drain but there's no dipping in the lights when 'starting' anymore.

I did have misfire issues before but they went after the sparks were changed. I've not taken them out yet to have a look at the condition.

Trying to see where the temp sensor is, pretty sure it's normallly a blue plug but the only blue plug has leads going to the 02 sensor on the manifold.

Dont rule out fuel pump just because it runs fine when running.

ah and another thing my MPG has dropped by 4mpg just recently which is another reason why I think t may be the sensor.

I'd expect a good battery to read at more like 12.85 volts that shortly after a run. As you have a new battery, I'd start by looking at the alternator.

Don't think it's alternator as battery works with no major issues during the day. I'm going to check battery in the morning before start up and when I get to work

My Pug 406 had the same problem a few years ago. It turned out to be the coil pack as the main dealer didn't change the sparks plugs on the major service so the coil pack overcompensated for the worn plugs until it knackered up.
Mine would either not start at all then after leaving it for a while it would start first turn of the key or it would start and misfire like hell. Coil pack was about £70 and very easy to change.

I had misfire issues with worn plugs a while back resulting in antipollution fault. I'm wondering if that's the case

Does it crank over quickly (as quickly as normal)? Non-dipping lights suggests battery is fine and you have other issues. Since plugs are new it leaves leads/coils/fuel/sensors. I'd suggest first port of call would be EFI temp sensor - warm starts being fine suggests it's unable to fuel correctly for cold starts, especially when very cold (first/last thing and cold days). Coil packs, when breaking down, will fail when warm or randomly, they rarely make starting difficult then work fine the rest of the time. Plugs won't be an issue unless you managed to pick up a "bad" one (dodgy resistor - also rare), then it'll tend to misfire under difficult to ignite situations (at cruise when you just edge the throttle in, high load high rpm but rarely othe times).

Check that EFI sensor (lack of codes doesn't mean the sensor isn't out of whack), also check and clean the crank angle sensor (usually sits atop the gearbox right next to the engine).

Thanks coffee king. I'm sure I should be looking for a green plug but the one shown here (just) isn't it. Is it the blue one or is it elsewhere [IMG] [/IMG]

Had a similar problem with a 106 GTi (same engine?) - would turn over fine, but struggle to start from cold then have a very lumpy idle for a few minuteds when it eventually did start and then would be fine/start first time once warm.

IIRC, eventually traced to an air leak in the petrol lift pump meaning fuel was draining out of the fuel system back into the tank if it was left for several hours.

I had a slightly lumpy idle this morning. Argh... so many things to check!! Petrol lift pump?

PS checked battery levels this morning and were 12.4v having been stood for over 12 hours so don't think that's too bad.

If you fitted NGK plugs - bin them and fit Bosch or OE (Eyquem). Lots of issues with NGK plugs in these.
Hth
Marko

Cheers Marko, I do tend to avoid NGK, garage replaced them though in the last service so may check just in case. Usually go Bosch or Champion

my advice, change the cheapest parts first starting with the leads and coil pack. Check the voltage from the alternator as well.
Had a Ford Mondeo wiht really strange electrical faults....it was the coil pack........

Lumpy idle when cold - temp sensor. It's like not having the choke out.

Thanks molgrips.

Does anyone know where it is on the 206 1.6 16v???? This engine is diff to previous ones I've had. Should've been near the dipstick but not on this bloody engine!

Think I've found a google image. Looks like I've got to take my air box off an it's under there. Same plane as previous cars just about a foot lower on the block! Phew.

singletrackmind - Member
HIJACK
Anyone had a diesel vacuum pump fail ?
In normal driving brakes are 'normal', but servo assist goes after 2 pumps of the pedal , so pedal becomes solid, and brake force decreases.
There is a suck on the vacuum pipe, but i have no idea how much there should be. It could also be one way valve failure in the servo booster?
vw passat 1.9tdi pd .

Got the same car and had more or less same problem.
But local garage found a leak on one of the vac pipes and it was a pretty simple fix.

Right then, I've found the sensor location. In the above image if I track back from the yellow into the darkness between the air filter hosuing and the engine block it's in there.

Can I just check to that's it's pretty much a staright swap? I'm going to lose some coolant which I'm planning on just replacing, don't think I will need to bleed the system etc as an airlock should eventually work its way out and I just tneed to keep an eye on the levels for a little while.

I have a Honda 4x4 that I've had from new, 8 yrs old, 145k miles, so I know it's entire history and it's had proper servicing. It's starting to show it's age!

Had an intermittent starting problem over the last 6 months. It will turn over but no sign of firing first thing in the morning, but only once in a while. When i finally get it going, sometimes after leaving it for a few hours it starts instantly, then runs perfectly.

The cure was simple and cheap. Absolutely soak the plug leads, HT caps, distributor cap with WD40. I do it once a month, or more if it's been particularly wet, as a precaution, and it has been fine for 3 months now. I must have a "spark leak" somewhere due to age and mileage.

I did remove the distributor cap to give it a clean and sprayed it inside and out, on a day when it was having none of it, and it fired up perfectly straight away afterwards. I'll be swapping leads and cap etc after my looming MOT.

Not convinced this is your problem, so before you replace the sensor check the resistance of the sensor.I don't have the figures for your engine, but for a 206 with a NFZ engine expect:
Temp Ohms
10c 3530 -4100
20c 2350 -2670
40c 1085 -1230
60c 540 -615
80c 292 -326

Your's will be very similar.
Hth
Marko

Changed the sensor and it's now tip top again.. until this morning when the exhaust started blowing!!!! Grrrrr

Changed the sensor and it's now tip top again.. until this morning when the exhaust started blowing!!!!

If it's got tits or wheels...

... we'll have a fiddle with it.

Glad you sorted at least the first issue. Blowing exhausts are simple enough though, I'll leave you to it. I think I've just blown the ring lands on my engine so I've bigger fish to fry lol.

Yup, my issues are definately simpler to solve!! It's time I need now!

...we'll have a fiddle with it.

😀

Changed the sensor and it's now tip top again

So I was right? Yeehah! I think that's the first time ever on one of these threads! It was only a suggested possibility )

coffeeking - Member

Glad you sorted at least the first issue. Blowing exhausts are simple enough though, I'll leave you to it. I think I've just blown the ring lands on my engine so I've bigger fish to fry lol.

Yup, caused by noise on the crank angle sensor giving me wildly inaccurate spark timing (coupled with 1.1 bar of boost and marginally sized injectors) 🙁

Taking a guess I may find this when I open it:
[img] [/img]

ck, what car / engine you got? Obviously something with a blower in it!

'91 Widebody Celica GT4 running a '93 Japanese MR2 tubby engine with the turbo and gearbox off the ST205, all running from a megasquirt (MS1 V2.2).

Interesting, quick? 😆
Dont suppose you're going to Japfest @ Coombe this year are you?

It used to be 🙂 Now it's a bit unhappy sitting smelling sickly sweet in the office carpark. I'd only just changed to the water to air chargecooler too 🙁 I might be going but I'm thinking of ploughing all my finances into the new project so it may have to be sacrificed 🙁 Are you? What are you running?

Fixed my vacuum leak . Wobbly pipe on back of vacuum pump . Large amount of mastic sealant and its back to normal , for now