[Closed] Buying an old defender

The bulkhead is the other major rot point - especially at the corners. Unfortunately its also easy to cover up with filler. Look for repainting there, and if it looks [i]dodgy[/i], test it with a screwdriver.

Everyone says that the 2.5 td is gutless, but it seemed to be OK for the MOD.

Have you considered a Disco? Virtually as capable, but more comfortable to drive and often cheaper to buy.

Can your missus drive one? ergonomics and heavy clutch might make it a nightmare.

As above, look at a few other choices, Discovery, Frontera, Trooper,Terrano etc... They will be as capable as the Defender in the snow when ultimate approach angles and axle articulation arent that important. Defenders are poor value and even the more expensive ones can be expensive to keep going.

If you have to have one, buy wisely and for low mileage it shouldnt be a problem. Rot is the main problem.

I know the 2.5TD had problems when it was new but if its lasted this long it should be fine.

Had to laugh opened this post thinking Sol Campbell or Gallas..

well it put a smile on my face!

Ha ha, Campbell compares well with a LR Defender, both are slow.

I see a few with rotten chassis around the jacking points.
I'd be looking at a TDi Disco for that.

Ha ha, Campbell compares well with a LR Defender, both are slow.

And prone to breakdowns?

I'd look for a Tdi Disco too if you really want a Land Rover. But they too are a chassis rust fest.

I bought a Shogun four years ago for £1500. Just passed another MOT and doing steriling service. Better in the snow than the Disco.

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check the rear cross member (usually the first to go of the chassis members); then check the bulkhead usually around the top door hinge/vent flap area; then have a look at the footwell as they are very prone to rotting.
the 2.5 turbo diesel was the old 2.5 naturally aspirated diesel with a turbo bolted on, and some then blew up!
i have seen 200tdis with a galvanised chassis for £3500. it was a pick up, but this can be changed for a hardtop for about £300.
remember if your buying ex military that they don't have power steering; i think some civvy version didn't have it either.

I'd buy all of above over lr agreed they are better value but it's a sellers Market ! Car in question is from a mate who's a mechanic will have a look see he assure me chassis is original unrepaired an in great nick

Origional unrepaired may not be as good as it sounds! Give it a good smack with a hammer along the rails and especially rear crossmember. Get under and check that from behind too, I've seen them looking perfect from outside whilst crumbling away quietly.
Bulkhead too, as others have said. Top corners and 'a' posts where doors hang are really faffy to replace although panels are available.

My early D plate Ninety has a 2.5TD, 130k at the moment, a bit smoky on startup but pulls well enough. Expect around 15mpg for 'normal' driving unless it's in much better condition. Will trundle along at 60 as long as steep hills aren't involved but it gets rather noisy above 50! Just keep the oil topped up, change the filters regularly (I do mine every 2 months as they are so cheap) and you'll be fine.
I absolutely love mine, but I will replace the engine with a TDi when/if it goes pop. More torque and driveability.

The MOD used the N/A 2.5 deisel btw, even more pedestrian!

An old Defender....

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Can your missus drive one? ergonomics and heavy clutch might make it a nightmare.

Tell her it is a mobile gym. A heavy clutch pedal will do wonders for her calves, and if you buy one without power steering her arms will remain wonderfully toned.

If driving a Defender is a "nightmare" you aren't eating enough cheese late at night.

The thing about Land Rovers is that you can replace bits of the chassis or even all of the chassis at reasonable cost. The parts are readily available and not really expensive. But they're a bit like old VWs, you need to have the desire, even affection, for them!

As regards to them being a bit tardy on the road, it's all relative. I've driven all over Britain, parts of Europe, Africa and the Middle East in Land Rovers dating back to the 50s (2Lt Petrol engined) and they got me there and back. You just have to allow a little extra time... 8)

Think of a Defender not so much as a car, more as a very comfortable and nippy tractor.

Think of a Defender not so much as a car, more as a very comfortable and nippy tractor.

having driven a few spot on description

"think of the defender as a comfortable and nippy tractor"

lol

jcb have the fast trac; land rover has the defender

Nice one Cranberry! Spot on there!

Our friend (with 2 year old girl, husband in Afghanistan) ran out of heating oil and was stranded by ice this weekend - guess who fetched 100 litres of oil? They do come in very very handy in these conditions.

Shame I stink of the oil now as a lot of it poured onto me - 5 gallon tank + head high access trying to pour into 3 inch hole + windy conditions = flipping hard.

I like old Defenders a lot, I've got one, I have waterproofs to wear when in it and I also have a very extensive toolkit and phone numbers for part suppliers on speed dial.

I like old Diahatsu Fourtraks a lot, I've got one, I also have a spare key for it.

unleaded

Petrol Defenders are very thirsty. Probably explains low mileage.

got a viewing at 4.30 - will be dark but im sure my maxx D will be handy for melting through any rusty chassis members !

Waterproofs at the ready schroedingerscat !

Really is just a necessary evil where we live - cycled out this morning on the half fat - didnt see a single car that wasnt a 4x4 for the first 8 miles

Trail Rat, please only go for a first viewing tonight. I have owned more than 10 landrovers of many differn't types and the worst one I ever bought was purchsed in the dark with a powerfull torch. Its just not possible to see underneath properly with artificial light. Defenders are wonderful vehicles if you have a need for their very srong characteristics. But second hand they can be plagued by rust and in the chassis and bulkhead. Both can be hard to see if their is stonechip / waxoil applied to chassis. Should be done to protect it but all to often is used to try and disguise rust. Also keep a good luck out for oil leaks, it will have some they all do but it is important what is leaking and weather it can be serviced or at least topped up to keep it running well. Any half decent seller will allow you to put a small deposit down to return in the light to have a better look.

Take a small hammer with it and use it on the chassis to check for rot. Don't worry too much about the outriggers or rear cross member, as they are easy to replace. Give the main rails a good going over though.

I always liked the 2.5TD engine, sure it is slow and noisey but i always found it very reliable, only thing that ever went was fuel injector pipes shearing off. You have to love a vehicle where you can crimp the end of the brocken injector pipe and continue your journey running on 3 cylinders. only about £12 for a new pipe and 10 mins to fit.

Wish I had one at the moment, no nead to go anywhere but I would love to be playing in all this snow.

I am a little out of touch with landrover prices as I havn't bought or sold for a few years but I wuld have thought that an 87 2.5TD should be in very good condition to demand £2500. Milleage is pretty irelevant on a vehicle of this age, level of rust and parts replaced are much more key. Make sure you are starting the engine from cold. i.e not been started today and that their is only a little white smoke that should clear up as the engine gets warm. Blue smoke means oil is being burnt and can be expensive to correct.

for sure - its had new shocks (strikes me as odd i thought it would be a leafer - perhaps converted)

new radiator , new brakes and a few other bits and bobs

ill have a good root about !

87 should be an early 90 or 110 so will be coil srung although irrelevant as all landrovers have shock absorbers its the spring that it either coil srung or leaf sprung. Its nice to have new shocks but they are about £20 per corner and cheap and easy to fit you really need to look at the big lumps. Chassis, bulkhead, gearbox all of them. Make sure you can sellect high and low ratio, all main gears and 2wd / 4wd if this is an option. Steering will feel very vague if you have never driven one before but you should not need to steer to keep steering to go in a straight line.

cheers

rot and engine is what im worried about really

last old defender was an early 80s 110 in camo was the bomb - not mine though and was rotten to hell

Good luck hope it turns out to be a good un.

Seemed great chassis and bulkhead all solid - box seemed solid if little vague but no different to last one I drove hi low and diff lock all work . Body works not perfect but fine for my use - might tart it up might sell it on in spring !

Sounds tasty terry. Great fun machines in this weather. You better be ok with lying underneath it in the cold getting oily and swearing at rusty bolts!

<land rover nerd> Technically she's not a defender though, they went defender when the 200tdi was bolted in </land rover nerd>

Surf-Mat - Member
Nice one Cranberry! Spot on there!

Our friend (with 2 year old girl, husband in Afghanistan) ran out of heating oil and was stranded by ice this weekend - guess who fetched 100 litres of oil? They do come in very very handy in these conditions.

Shame I stink of the oil now as a lot of it poured onto me - 5 gallon tank + head high access trying to pour into 3 inch hole + windy conditions = flipping hard.

I wasn't going to comment on this, but seeing as you've told us about it twice today I presume you've done it twice, in which case you are my hero......

😉

just a few tips make sure all the numbers match up as they are very easy twined up or a newer model on a older number plate 300tdi are the best will out spending loads on a td5 the old 2.5 e.g the 80's /early 90's they are not the best starters and can be very hard on the clutch pedal for women (not being sexiest but they have very strong spring) most off the rust spots have been mentioned but always look where the tow bar as many landy are for work as due to have the best gear box for towing any way if they have crashed with a trailer on it shows at that point on stress also check for leaks in the huds and wear in the uv joints

and more question email in profile and if you are not after a 90 or 110 a disco is a good shout

i have grown up around land rovers and currently have quiet a few 😆

If it has the 19j Turbo diesel engine fitted, it aint a defender its a 90 or a 110.
Defenders are post '93

Rot. Chassis rot from inside out. Front bit seems to last due to oil leaks.
Crossmembers all rot, not just rear. Body mounts rot. outriggers rot. Tank riggers rot. Fuel tanks rot.
Spring mounts rot. Front shock towers rot.
Bulkheads rot for fun, corners, posts and footwells.
The hotspots in the cylinder head come loose and wreck the block/ pistons. The heads crack across the valves. The injctor pipes crack. The piston crowns crack. The piston crowns melt.

The front diff wears faster then the rear. The hub drive fanges wear for fun. Especially if the little rubber oil cap rots or cracks.
The UJ's on both props wear. The cv joints wear, the swivel bearings wear, the swivels go out of lash causing violent steering judder above 50 mph

These models are fitted with the LT77 gearbox. Mainshaft and layshaft bearings are weak. the wrong grade of EP90 rots the synchro hubs (low sulfur gl5 ep 90 is needed i think -its been ages since i owned one , sorry)The splines on the rear output shaft fail due to lack of lubrication. Transfer boxes are tough but selectors can seize if ot used often.

Why would you buy one if you dont know what your doing with them, i can strip & rebuild them in my sleep, but i'll never own another.

i bought it because i needed to get out my house occasionally over the next month - esp now im relying on coal for heating as oils run out ! ......

its a stop gap .... long as it runs till spring it shall be sold on .....a small sensible car will be bought for the missus

If i needed four wheel drive on the cheap for carrying duties, an LWB Nissan Terrano would be my first choice, seriously all land rover products are crap. I've wasted half my adult working life bolting them or welding them back together.

'Ang on a mo? Mint and unleaded? its a 2.5 petrol? get saving for the sub 15mpg rather then the mot. A good sprightly engine tho, far better then the 19j turbo diesel. Even the 2.5 NA diesel (15j?) is tougher then the blown version, though gutless.

If its 2.5 petrol it will work fine. Worry about the fuel consumption when the snow goes, then drop a disco engine in.
Ignore the Naysayers. If you want a LR, buy one. When people tell you that their Toyota or what ever is better they don't include the prices to mend them. Nowt is cheaper than a LR and you can do it yourself. Also its only a LR that can really take being shoved through a hedge when it all goes wrong and comes out looking better. Well maybe a Lada.
try difflock,co for all you needs or any LR forum

The guy who services my 90 has a few pages regarding old landrovers that may be of help
[url= http://www.glencoyne.co.uk ]http://www.glencoyne.co.uk[/url]

Specifically
[url= http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/info.htm ]http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/info.htm[/url]

I find [url= http://www.landrovernet.com ]http://www.landrovernet.com[/url] one of the more usefull sites

Now the days are getting longer...
[url= http://www.fozzie.plus.com/softtop/ ]http://www.fozzie.plus.com/softtop/[/url]

dont know why i wrote unleaded ! its deffo a diesel .... realise its the shite diesel but lots of its issues seem to extend from thrashing from cold , overheating and not servicing ......according to glencoyne anyway

everything works well all electonics , heater(as well as expected anyway) , hi lo and diff locks

chassis is largely fine after the hammer test with the rear cross member needing a small repair where the exhaust hanger goes on - as its no longer attached - small portion of rust and rot round where this has detached - knocked it all off and its left a hole about 4/5cms round

the bulk head seems fine internally - both bay , footwells and from underneeth but the external bits - where the door hinges fit and under the windows could use some work.

rear floor could do with replacement if i was being picky but not really a huge issue for me .

window rubbers need replacing - all are perished !

standard breather pipe into the air filter oil mess - that will be fixed tomorrow !

runs fine - no blue smoke when starting or going and copes with the drive and started in - 17 this morning no sweat.

will be visiting my mechanic over xmas period to have the bracket rewelded on. and im sure he will kill me for buying it !

gonna get the underside pressurewashed and wax oiled outside and in before the salt on the roads kills it more !

"gonna get the underside pressurewashed and wax oiled outside and in before the salt on the roads kills it more !"

you do realise that the layer of crap underneath may in fact be structural?

Check where light steel plates hold non stressed ally bits together as well and vice versa, cos you sometimes get a chemical reaction of some sort that I don't really understand which can be a problem, cos the bits then drop off.

Great things though and dead cheap and easy to fix,Every journey can become an adventure guessing whether you'll get there or not:) good luck with it 🙂