[Closed] Bouldering

Never heard that one before - big hands can be very helpful for big rounded holds. Definitely take your time building up hand strength, though - popped finger tendons are not fun.

My wife is 5ft tall.

She went climbing and they were fairly clear that no amount of exercising was going to increase her reach 😉

My wife is 5ft tall.

She went climbing and they were fairly clear that no amount of exercising was going to increase her reach

Not quite the same thing, nor the point he was making.

I wouldn't worry about it, deeply talented climbers come in all different sizes.

You'll be fine. You will know when your pushing your limits. Just keep at it and the strength will build over time.
You will naturally start off with the bigger jug holds, and as strength increases you will find you can progressively use smaller ones.

I have pretty long fingers too and never had a problem. My arms go before my fingers.

Did he not point out that your gangly limbs and fingers would give you a massive advantage in many problems. Watching the lanky gits reach past stuff that I have to do an extra move for is disheartening.

Generally, in my experience, while being long of finger/arm will be a disadvantage in some problems where you're crimping hard on a tiny hold, or bunched up with handholds close to footholds, on the whole it will be a plus rather than a minus.

As others have said, draping a big hand over a sloping hold can increase grip and traction, and long fingers/big hands can make pinch holds a heck of a lot easier.

There is no way any new climber should be crimping on tiny holds too often, as it can do damage.

bencooper +1

don't google "build finger strength" or anything similar, since much of it will point to strength boards and bonkers exercises which will lead to a world of pain and slow recovery unless you build up to them very very slowly.

Low grade bouldering itself will be plenty exercise for now to build up strength in your fingers. You'll have blisters and torn pads to worry about before your fingers get anywhere close to tired 🙂

Cheers folks, good to hear. I could sort of see where he was coming from. Others who had more 'normal' sized hands/ fingers could get more or less half their finger inside the hold where as I was just about getting the tips of my fingers in. But clearly it can be used to my advantage too.

[i]Not quite the same thing, nor the point he was making.[/i]

I recognised that hence the smiley. The point has been made elsewhere above - you have to work with what you've got, what is a disadvantage in some situations is an advantage elsewhere. You just have to play to your strengths and minimise the impact of your 'weaknesses' really. At least you are in a position to increase strength over time.

I recognised that hence the smiley. The point has been made elsewhere above - you have to work with what you've got, what is a disadvantage in some situations is an advantage elsewhere. You just have to play to your strengths and minimise the impact of your 'weaknesses' really. At least you are in a position to increase strength over time.

Genetics can be beaten though. I'm currently filing down my fingers.

At least you are in a position to increase strength over time.

Yep. I'll always be a shortarse, regardless of my finger strength.

My tip for improving quickly is to work on your flexibility, not finger strength. The ability to put your foot next to your ear (or more realistically, at waist height), will always be more useful, particularly in the lower/middle grades.

Sorry to disagree Martin, but I think a complete beginner should be working on technique rather than flexibility - and by technique I mean footwork and body positionning.

Being able to put your foot on something next to your armpit is no good unless you can actually apply some force through it, and teaching people to do massive high steps right from the start will mean that they miss out on learning how to use tiny edges and smears for the feet.

Obviously this isn't true at the top end, as the video of Mina on careless torque shows!

Maybe they thought it was encouragement, "don't worry mate, it's not your fault" sort of thing. Seems somewhat ill-conceived though.

what is a disadvantage in some situations is an advantage elsewhere.

This.

I know long and short, thick and thin climbers, and male and female ones come to that. And they all approach problems differently, but I'd struggle to say one is better. I've a mate who's five foot not much but a stocky little sod, all upper body strength. He'll power through a crux move whereas someone six foot plus might get away with skipping that tricky hold completely and reaching straight for the next one. And my OH is a bigger girl but ever so bendy, I've seen her hook a foothold at head height and manage to lever off if whilst all the lads went, "wait, what? [i]How?[/i]" Different people have different strengths and what works for one isn't necessarily optimal for another.

One thing I've learned over the years introducing friends to climbing is that you can never tell what they're going to be like until you get them to the wall. I've taken people I thought would struggle and they've turned out to be naturals; I've taken others that I thought would be really good and they've not got off the ground. Quite interesting, I think.

Sorry to disagree Martin, but I think a complete beginner should be working on technique rather than flexibility - and by technique I mean footwork and body positionning.

Wasn't quite what I meant - I would hope that he'd be working on technique through climbing. But rather than train specifically for finger strength gains, working separately on flexibility can compensate for lack of finger strength on vertical or near vertical climbing. It also aids good technique and balance to be able to put more weight through high feet without leaning out to place them.

I'm not really talking about trying to rock onto a very high foot - just make use of all the footholds that are available, rather than having to smear or use tiny edges when it's not necessary. Certainly if he's indoors a lot, they don't tend to provide much for your feet.

I seem to remember my brother telling me when I was a kid (he was a pretty good climber)"you don't go up stairs on your hands, so make sure you maintain most of your weight on your feet". Wise words.

Yep.

Common mistake is to try and power through with your arms. Unless you're my mate Steve, that's not sustainable; legs are for power, arms are for balance. Mostly.

Until it gets overhanging 😉

I wouldn't worry too much, as others have said, it's a real full body thing climbing. For bouldering, technique is hugely important, and footwork being the important part of that,

Btw I have double jointed fingers and if I crimp really hard for too long the middle joint sort of goes backwards and locks out, doesn't hurt but looks a bit weird. Hasn't stopped me working my way through the grades though, you will be fine.

Longer fingers will definitely make the use of small holds harder but I don't think this will become an issue in the short to med term. If you intend to take climbing seriously though, working on finger strength will be very beneficial. Second joint hangs should not be too dangerous and will be a good place to start.

I have got back into climbing quite recently and despite having good technique, having pretty good upper body strength and being fairly light, the limiting factor is the ability to hang small holds on overhanging boards. At the wall over the weekend I was trying a problem and despite every bit of foot trickery known to man, I was being shut down by my inability to hang a small crimp.

Don't be discouraged, just take the advice as pointing out you area for some extra effort in terms of training. Everyone has an area of weakness they need to concentrate on.

Be mindful of the strain on tendons especially when bouldering
I popped the anular pully tendons on a finger a year ago and it took 9 months to get back to the wall and I'm careful to climb on crimpy overhanging routes now. I would say that weight has a huge baring on the tendons also. Proper warming up and knowing when to ease off are good practices

fervouredimage - the main thing is you enjoyed it!!

Do it a few times and I can assure you it can become addictive very quickly.

Ignore the instructor and carry on regardless. Where I climb there are loads of different people of all shapes and sizes and they all do just fine. Some routes favour little guys and others favour lanky buggers, horses for courses.

Flexibility and movement would be the first thing to work on but for now forget that and just have fun.

I think he speaks B0110cks, you dont use fingers extended [at 90 degrees to hand] so the length is not an important factor. The extra reach will be beneficial.
My extra limb length and hand size was always an asset,
Just enjoy your climbing and do go outdoors, climbing walls are not bouldering.

To climb, you must first believe.

Ommmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

I think he speaks B0110cks,

I dont, I just think he introduced it as an issue a bit early.

In reference to the OP's original question about the advice he was given, good lord there is a lot shite talked in the climbing fraternity these days. When did climbers and climbing get so up their own arse? Try striking up a conversation with any of the fashionistas hanging around the stanage plantation these days and you'd be forgiven for thinking you'd stumbled across a meeting of the next master race. They're almost as bad a triathletes.

Bouldering used to be about fun and practise after a day on the crags. I get that its become a pursuit in its own right but I'm sorry to see it seems to be replacing the sense of adventure that was the original pioneering spirit in climbing.

Ooooh, get you missus 😕 well that's the Peak (and the plantation especially) for you...

On the other hand I've been climbing thirty years (nearly) and the atmosphere at my local wall (UCR in Bristol) is great these days...loads of shared enthusiasm and supportiveness, much of that down to the influx of keen beginners of all ages shapes and talents.

..most of whom look a bit gobsmacked when they ask how long I've been doing it..!

Pah 30 years, i started bouldering at Almscliffe some 40 years ago. We had one wall at Leeds Uni, long fingers and all I managed most stuff, still managing to do the odd new route on Grit and Limestone, although the lines I've eyed are looking ever increasingly impossible with the years 🙁

For an instuctor to say you are never going to be good before you start, well just proove him wrong.

Thanks all for the feedback, I don't feel quite so concerned now about my spindly fingers. I guess it's just learning to use what I have to my advantage. Clearly my lankyness will be advantageous.

TBH the climbing wall is not somewhere I intend to spend too much of my time. I decided to give bouldering a go to go and explore the outdoors more than I do already on two wheels. Just picked up a great book ' Boulder Britain'. Really easy to use guide to finding some spots, particularly for a novice.

@fervoured yep Boulder Britain is a really useful guidebook, my copy lives in the glove box in the car.

@Dales_Rider you were on the Leeds scene in the seventies, Manson / JS era? I never got to experience the corridor, the first wall I trained on was the Bolton Tech gym - open two nights a week, holds chiselled out of the brickwork, those were the days, etc etc 8)

ianv - I am guessing that you are the ianv who I saw competing in the Leeds World Cup comp back in the day when Simon Nadin won?
If so I want you to know that you were an inspiration.
Cheers

another +1 for boulder britain, although I bought it over the winter and then it snowed, waiting for the rock to dry.

ianv - I am guessing that you are the ianv who I saw competing in the Leeds World Cup comp back in the day when Simon Nadin won?

yep
Jerry won, Simon was second.
Cheers for that

If so I want you to know that you were an inspiration.

An inspiration and a legend.

Anyway, that reminds me, I really must get over to Boulder UK given I live about 10 minutes away.

When did climbers and climbing get so up their own arse?

I'm sorry to see it seems to be replacing the sense of adventure that was the original pioneering spirit in climbing.

This made me chuckle 🙂

Fimage, combining MTB and bouldering is a good choice. With friends I've stopped many a time middle of the moors to climb on isolated boulders.
Elliptic yes there when Manson and syrett were around, bouldered with Manson and living in the same village as Fawcett got to see a bit of him, started avoiding being coaxed into bouldering by him after he had me soloing routes on the R wing, he had one thing that stops a lot of climbers becomeing good and thats a cool head.

Bouldering used to be about fun and practise after a day on the crags. I get that its become a pursuit in its own right but I'm sorry to see it seems to be replacing the sense of adventure that was the original pioneering spirit in climbing.

Don't get yer Ron Hills in a twist, old timer. We still accept you and all your clanking hexes.

Bouldering used to be about fun and practise after a day on the crags. I get that its become a pursuit in its own right but I'm sorry to see it seems to be replacing the sense of adventure that was the original pioneering spirit in climbing

So what are your views on trail centres and bike parks? :?:.

As an aside, assume its worth investing in a crash mat? My wife is joining me on this venture so will always be the two of us. I realise mats aren't infallible but they must provide a certain level of confidence?

Crash mats - nothing that a small square of carpet and a beer mat won't protect you from 🙂
Seriously though, when I started climbing again I bought an Alpkit mat with my redundancy. Got me through a dark period nicely. I still struggle to instinctively trust the thing from higher up - I still boulder out stuff with the expectation of doing it, so don't always commit to a high crux. I'll get there though. I'm getting old too, I hesitate to jump off a high wall in the same way I would when younger. You might need a bigger car though 🙂

I'm not sure about bouldering mats, do they give you the incentive to stay on the problem ?
Sure we use to pad boulders with rucksacs but there was more of an incentive to stay on.
-

Yes, get a mat. The Alpkit ones are good value like stever said.

What they give is the confidence to try harder! Don't trust it blindly, you can still hurt yourself but they do take the sting out of normal landings and give you something to aim for if you have to bale out from high up.

Oh and they also make a very comfy portable sofa / mattress for chilling out and watching the scenery go by 🙂

To focus my mind and provide encouragement on tougher bouldering problems I always empty a bagful of broken bottles over my landing area.

Get a crash mat if you're playing out. Good grief.

+1 for crash mats - especially for beginners where you will fall off occasionally. Good rock shoes are the more important thing, initially ignore those that say you should get ones so small they hurt, get ones that are comfortably tight and get them from a rock shoe shop, tell them youre a beginner and they should help.

Shoes and a mat, copy of boulder britain... your good to go!

Lugging a mat around on you bike might take the edge off your strava times 🙂

A mat makes a good mattress for the back of a van for post surf, ride, climb kip.

Always wondered who thhe idiot was who left broken glass at the bottom of crags.

Good rock shoes are the more important thing, initially ignore those that say you should get ones so small they hurt, get ones that are comfortably tight and get them from a rock shoe shop, tell them youre a beginner and they should help.

I'd just like to second this. If an "expert" in a shop tells you they should hurt, find another shop. They aren't necessarily built for comfort, and people at the top of their game may want to have their toes crushed into odd positions for performance reasons, but as a beginner if your shoes aren't comfortable then all it'll do is discourage you from climbing.

I made this mistake. I bought a pair of the legendary 5.10 Anasazis after destroying my beginner pair and wanting something a bit more advanced. They're the most amazing shoe ever but I bought the wrong size based on poor advice and they're torture. I ended up getting another pair of better fitting, less technical ones for day-to-day playing and reserving the pink bastards for when I'm feeling adventurous. It's probably not improved my climbing any, but it sure as hell increased my enjoyment of it.

(As an aside, my first pair died arresting a fall while bouldering. It was nothing severe, but when sticky rubber is sliding across Yorkshire gritstone there's only ever going to be one winner.)

Long fingers won't stop you climbing hard. Look how gangly Adam Ondra is!

Look how gangly Adam Ondra is!

His technique is terrible though

Pah 30 years, i started bouldering at Almscliffe some 40 years ago. We had one wall at Leeds Uni

Ah Almscliffe and Leeds Uni wall, bring back memories. Almscliffe and Brimham was my old stopming group in my early/mid teens, some 20 odd years ago, before 3 years at Leeds uni in the 90's. Now living near Bristol too far from god's own rock.

ianv - I am guessing that you are the ianv who I saw competing in the Leeds World Cup comp back in the day when Simon Nadin won?

The same one who was at the Yorkshire Open shortly before at Leeds Uni when Leach won?

I was competing in the juniors, not too ashamed to be beaten by the likes of Adam Wainwright, Neil Gresham, Dave Musgrove, and looking back chuffed to have beaten Matt Dickinson as when next met at Leeds Uni a few years later he was (and is) much better climber than me.

The same one who was at the Yorkshire Open shortly before at Leeds Uni when Leach won?

I never even knew there was a comp at Leeds Uni, what year was that?

1989. It was run by DR walls. It was held in sports hall not the actual Leeds Uni wall. Hailed as UK's first indoor climbing comp, just got in before the Worlds.

Bouldering...hmmm: It's like when your missus is away for the week and you have to "go solo"....
It ticks some of the boxes, but lacks a certain Je Ne Sais Quoi.. 😈

Bouldering...hmmm: It's like when your missus is away for the week and you have to "go solo"....
It ticks some of the boxes, but lacks a certain Je Ne Sais Quoi..

Congratulations on your almost perfect use of UKclimbing cliche 🙄 . Whatever:

poor adam, has to have a hareem of mates to carry THAT many crash mats! 😉

Did you say Bikes and Bouldering?

[url= http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8229/8559483756_86a8b5f0db.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8229/8559483756_86a8b5f0db.jp g"/> [/img][/url]

Half way around a local loop that takes in several boulders. Shoes and chalk bag are in the bag, but this is steep and too hard for me to bother getting them out.
Anybody recognise the venue?
Marko

Most impressive, Adam appears to be the bastard offspring of an Amazonian tree frog and Maria Sharapova.

I don't recognise the venue but is somewhere Churnet-y?

Caley me thinks just below the main track beyond the sugerloaf

forget that just seen the texture of the rock

very coarse grained grit, Rylstone but to much vegetation I give in

Bouldering Early 70s stylee,

[img] [/img]

[img] [/img]

we should have a bikes and bouldering STW meet. Agree a destination, ride to said place, boulder, ride back/on. 🙂

I might be up for a ride and rock meet if it's in West Yorks area.
There's plenty of scope to link venues in and around Calderdale.

Nope best spot would have to be Barden Moor taking in Eastby Deer Gallows Rylstone and crookrise with a few sneaky boulders on rote.

Bouldering Early 70s stylee

No chalk let alone mats... EB's and thick woolly socks ftw!

elliptic - Member

Bouldering Early 70s stylee

No chalk let alone mats... EB's and thick woolly socks ftw!
Posted 2 minutes ago # Report-Post

No chalk, well spotted. It was just about the time of chalk introduction. We use to take some blackboard chalk to the Leeds wall and "Scribble" on the window sill then a little bit on the fingers, it had to do for all the problem 🙂

The 2 in the picture are Al Manson and Pete Livsey [RIP] tother one is a much younger me

Remember the Lakeland Rock series, Pete dangling a fiver over the edge while CB flailed at the crux on Footless?

Or tying off the ropes on Right Wall so he could solo up the Gates and ab down for another look at the top bit...then tie back in to finish it!

Certainly do, if I remember right it was filmed over 2 days and someone took all the gear out on the Top Pitch so a big swing was in order, think it was MH who was the culprit.
The missing boulder on the cromlech as well 🙂

Like the old school bouldering DR.

Venue - way up there ^ ^ is Far (or Near) Harkening Rock in the FoD.

Marko

alpkit just posted a pic of a prototype bouldering mat that can be attached to a pannier rack on FB. It still looks a little bulky and unstable and prone to being blown by the wind but on quiet summer days? hmmm maybe. 🙂