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some results i've had in keeping it all clean and proofed - anyone else?
Washing Machine:
SealSkins "waterproof" socks - normal wash.
Craghoppers softshell - nikwax techwash + DWR wash, 30 degrees light spin, no iron. drip dry.
Gortex paclight Hard-shell - nikwax techwash, + goretex wash + 30 degrees, light spin, no iron. flat dry.
Vaude hardshell - tech wash, spin, no iron. drip dry
Mammut Windstopper - nikwax techwash + DWR, 30 degrees, light spin, no iron. flat dry.
Pearl Izumi PRO Softshell - nikwax techwash + DWR, 30 degrees, light spin, flat dry. COOL IRON, direct onto shell. Repellency returns.
Normal riding jerseys - standard wash.
Normal bib shorts - normal wash, 30 degrees if padded.
Wool riding jerseys - standard wool wash, no spin, lay flat dry.
summer gloves, normal wash.
Hand:
pearl izumi softshell shoes - light sponge with watered down tek-wash, then clean water, dry in warm sun.
Endura waterproof light over-trousers/leggings - as above.
Neoprene overshoes - as above.
Neoprene style waterproof gloves - turn inside out, hand wash in warm water with a little tek wash, when dry on the "inside" turn back the right way, iron cool if DWR coated.
Endura/Altura other style of more usual waterproof gloves - (ie down inside or inner liner) - nikwax techwash + DWR, 30 degrees, light spin, no iron.
Seriously???
How do you tend to deal with skidmarked chamois?
[img] https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRyL_O0C47gRt3VKvKE_pEAX8fSzn6IoHLDeEHN1BkF_OwiHkMm [/img]
dry in warm sun.
If you've got any of that left over, I'll have it.
ok stuff you lot then next time you try and see how to wash your prized fancy smanshy softshell and not destroy it.
Cripes alive, I've never read a post that so lives up to a forum name.
I don't know what amazes me more: that someone would keep a laundry diary; that they'd be prepared to share with people the fact that they would keep a laundry diary; or that they would think anyone would G.A.S. enough for it to be marked as a permanent 'sticky' on a cycling forum!
[i]ok stuff you lot then next time you try and see how to wash your prized fancy smanshy softshell and not destroy it.[/i]
Been washing stuff for years, wash at 30, doesn't fall apart.
Serial killer?
Wow!
How about wash everything at 30 without fabric softener and re waterproof as necessary.
After all most cycling clothes are just normal clothes with funny pockets
definite sticky, very funny.
ok stuff you lot then next time you try and see how to wash your prized fancy smanshy softshell and not destroy it.
I have been washing my softshells for years, at 30, they are clean and not destroyed 🙂
As if we've got time to go to those kind of lengths to wash our kit... You use DWR every wash..?
You know what though, I was just about to ask about sealskin stuff. Are they actually ever waterproof in the first place?!?!
I think they are, once all the water starts to seep in from THE BIG HOLE AT THE TOP it doesn't get back out.
I'm fascinated by many aspects of the OP, not least the fact that [b]he hand washes his overshoes[/b]
Funny
And say what you like about roady_tony, because none of it will stick with his well maintained repellant coating 😀
sealskins are waterproof, they have a waterproof membrane between the outer wool and inner merino... the problem is, if you get the cuff wet where the outer and inner meet (socks or gloves) capillary action lets water into the inside of the glove/sock (which because the item is water proof holds water very well!!)
IME the gloves are brilliant, but probably better off with quick drying socks rather than slow drying ones that hold water...
Sealskins might work if you wore waterproof trousers too. I have some but I never wear them because I have winter cycling boots which are vastly superior to both overshoes and sealskinz. Not cheap tho, but my MTB ones are really old and my road ones were a really fortunate sale bargain.
Haha yes I get THE BIG HOLE IN THE TOP but I'm more concerned about the water that gets in from the sides, bottom and every-annoying-where else. I've washed then a couple of times, is this why they don't really work? How are they supposed to be waterproof in the first place?
Apologies to all- a bit slow on the posting there
I've tried several times to read the OP, but I get 3 lines in and my eyes get too heavy to continue.
This has made my day 😆
[url= http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/reproofing-a-gore-tex-gore-bike-wear-jacket ]sigh[/url]
ps. sticky was a pun btw, washing...sticky...hello...anyone? 😈
How about wash everything at 30 without fabric softener and re waterproof as necessary.
+1, use non-bio and only re-proof when you think it's not doing its job any more. 🙄
hmmm was just wondering the same thing on my pearl izumi shell...
although most of the net suggests the same as the OP.
ps. sticky was a pun btw, washing...sticky...hello...anyone?
Edinburgh defence?
Cripes alive, I've never read a post that so lives up to a forum name.
🙂
Well I liked it. Thanks RT.
APF
Man, you must go through a lot of Nikwax TechWash OP. 😯
All this "wash at 30" on clothes does get on my nerves - my washing machine doesn't have a 30° option and I'm not going to buy a new one just so I can wash a bike jersey.