[Closed] Are there any vag mechanics on here audi a3 won't start

No help at all, but 'vag mechanic'...heh.

Edit - shouldn't a healthy battery be 14.3v or something?

Which age A3? And Petrol / Diesel?

Mine did that with a dead battery. Everything looked fine until you put some load on it.

Sorry it's a 1.9 tdi red I. 1999. I only get to go anywhere near it when it's broke or has no fuel in.
Volts on the battery is not running so 12.5 volts should be plenty I hope.

Thanks for the speedy reply

So I've charged the battery it's putting out just under 13v

Have you tried jump starting it off another running vehicle? My money is on a dead battery.

No help at all, but 'vag mechanic'...heh.

I thought the entire thread was some kind of euphemism or double entendre.

chuckled though

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I've tried to jump it no joy starter never engaged.

Well I'm glad I made someone giggle

I've had that on cars - <14v on battery, wouldn't jump start. Would bump start, was OK at work during the day but in the morning it wouldn't start again.

New battery and glow plugs sorted it.

Possibly immobiliser. I think it is that age of vehice that have the immobiliser electrics in the speedo /instrument panel.
Have the speedo or other dials been a little bit erratic over the last few days?
Mine started with the speedo jumping all over the place, then it just wouldnt start after a day or 2.
If so, then Revtronics in Bradford are pretty much the only people who can repair it at around £100, then you have to get the keys recoded, or buy a new one at £1000.

You need to check the voltage drop at the battery when you attempt to crank it - not the nominal no load voltage at the battery.
Anything less than 9v and the starter will not turn.

Hth

Marko

I've not got a professional qualification but I am an enthusiastic amateur

I will see what the volt drop is when I try to start the car tomorrow . The battery will spin the starter if I bypass the ignition thou.

The battery will also have to keep open the fuel cut off solenoid too as well as provide power to the ECU, fuel tank pump ( if it has one can't remember if they do) as well as dash, radio other ancillarys that have been left switched on.
If it's not a brand new correct rated battery that's been substituted I would stil bet it's the battery unless of course there's water under your front passengers carpet soaking into your control unit etc......as happened on my passat when it developed bizarre issues.....blocked bullhead drain allowed scuttle water pond to enter through air vent system.

Suggsey the drain holes are clear thank god I've seen a few cars die with soggy carpets. Built in design fault #tinhat#

I'll have a look at the wiring diagram for you tomorrow

Marko

Bad earth strap gets my money or crank position sensor?

Tried moving it whilst in gear to turn the crank?

hmm the battery's shot on our PD Golf but it still (just) starts. I think the OP has eliminated that.

Good luck, there's a billion bits of trickery to go wrong...

I've checked the earth strap it's fine.
Keep the ideas coming

I'll need the engine code to check the wiring diagram.

The battery will spin the starter if I bypass the ignition thou.

So if you turn turn the ignition on and put a fused jumper wire between the starter solenoid and the battery , what happens?

Hth
Marko

Assuming you have eliminated faulty battery and faulty solenoid as it turns fine if you put 12V direct to the solenoid. See what happens with Marko's idea and take it from there. Sounds like no power getting to the starter solenoid.(If it were the immobiliser built into the instrument cluster they normally start then cut straight out with the immobiliser light on). It could well be the ignition barrel - I had an A4 (same year, engine)in which the barrel was worn. Had to turn it on very carefully into the correct position and remember to turn it back a bit after starting to ensure the starter stopped! If the key was not in the correct position things like the wipers and indicators didn't work correctly.

@pk I assume you searched the various Audi/VW/etc car threads, someone esle must have had a similar issue. We had a problem with a Rav4 which was battery related, the car started and ran OK but the old battery caused problems with the diagnostics all cured with a new battery. Battery can show good voltage but still be "shot". As per above immobilisers I've had experience with start the car but then it dies immediately. Likewise ignition barrel issues, car would start but other stuff wouldn't work.

A thousand things to go wrong sadly !

Marko cheers fella I get the engine code for you. I will leave the key in the ignition and bypass the starter.

I've been on vw vortex ect. Just going round in circles reading the treads as it could be so many things at fault.

The ignition barrel is tight and smooth when turning the key.
The car may be old but it's 1 owner from new my wife and only has 120 thou on the clock it's in fantastic condition too but how much time do you spend on a 15 year old car .

Could be the ignition switch....they commonly go on older stuff, like my old Corrado, not sure about newer stuff though.

Right I've got it going by bypassing the ignition ie jumping the starter and having the key in the ignition in the run position started first time straight away. All the lights on the dash went out as they should. So the problem is back from the ignition wire that is connected to the starter. So its the barrel or the switch.

Back from the dead both the car and the tread .1 faulty ignition switch grand total of £12 and 1 hours work . Thanks for your input folks

Did not read to end of thread Doh!!!!!!!

I had a similiar problem with my motorbike, I definitely hadn't just bumped the kill switch.

I did start the car standing outside the car with my arm through the window in case the air bag went off after I'd put it all back together. 🙂