[Closed] Whyte T130 show and tell

Evening bump...

You never see Whyte parts listed anywhere, but a Whyte dealer should be able to order you one in I'd have thought. They are able to get the cable grommets and other various bits I've asked about previously.

Alternatively, you could try this: [url= https://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/frames-forks-c6/frame-fork-spares-c152/remedy-29-2014-carbon-armour-kit-p12605 ]https://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/frames-forks-c6/frame-fork-spares-c152/remedy-29-2014-carbon-armour-kit-p12605[/url]

I know the Transition boys use them on both carbon and alloy frames, should fit pretty much anything...

In the meantime here's yet another T130 picture... This time at the top of Win Hill in the Peak District (Ladybower in the background)

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Protection. I had the invisframe kit fitted to my frame, and in fairness it is pretty much invisible against the T130s bright orange. For a recent trip to alps used old innertubes wrapped like roadie bar tape on downtube, drive side chain stay, and lower fork legs. This was both to protect the bike on the rack for the trip from rubbing against other bikes, but also from rock strikes etc. On my return I decided I had done a neat enough job to leave the fork and chainstay protection in place, and just took the down tube wrap off. A single 29'r innertube does the whole down tube neatly and completely.

Just a question, I saw some people had fitted 140mm forks, I'm toying with the idea of upgrading the Yari to a Pike and increasing the travel / running more sag. Anyone done this?

I've never ran my T130 at 130mm, upped it to 140 on day one. I have the boost Pike from my bike in the 'must get around to selling' pile if you are interested? I've got both 130 and 140mm travel springs.

I changed mine from 130 to 140, only because I run then at 50psi to get the right sag and then they sit 10mm into their travel. Not the usual sag issues as I found anything over 60psi and they don't sag when unweighted. Its an issue I find with most single air Rockshox.

Chaps

There seems to be a lot of you swapping the stock wheels. Forgive my ignorance but can i ask why this would be necessary?

I am currently running on the standard wheels and tyres but due to replace both tyres soon and i'm wondering if i would benefit from replacing the wheels whilst i'm at it?

I mostly ride local bridleway paths etc with the odd visit to a trail centre

If i decide to keep my standard wheels, what tyres would you recommend please?

I changed the wheels on my 2017 C RS as the stock Raceface/Whyte wheels were bloody heavy by my standards, just over 2kg bare and I really loathe carrying around wheels that heavy! I swapped to a Pro4/Arch Mk3 hadn built set that come in just 1.7kg for the pair and the bike feels much, much better. Just feels so much livelier. I'd like to go even lighter really, but then you're carbon realms and I'd struggle to justify it as I'd do it properly, DT have some super nice XMC 1200's for 2018 that use a 30mm ID carbon rim and weigh just over 1.4kg but they are silly money. I don't think it helps that the bikes are fairly portly anyway, stock mine was well over 30lbs without pedals and even now with ligher wheels and a carbon bar it's still just over 30lbs with pedals fitted. Maybe the carbon front end is overbuilt and the I'm sure the alloy back end doesn't help, but while it feels solid stiffness wise I've ridden others that feel just as solid but are substantially lighter. If they could trim a bit more weight from the frame and wheels as stock they'd make a sensationally good bike even better!

I've emailed Whyte twice in the last week about potentially buying a rubber downtube/bb protector - no response whatsoever - sure they say they'll be back within a couple of days. No tel number either. Not exactly important in the big scheme of things but pretty naff from them. Hope they're not this slack if I ever have a proper bike issue with them 😕

Chaps

There seems to be a lot of you swapping the stock wheels. Forgive my ignorance but can i ask why this would be necessary?

I am currently running on the standard wheels and tyres but due to replace both tyres soon and i'm wondering if i would benefit from replacing the wheels whilst i'm at it?

I mostly ride local bridleway paths etc with the odd visit to a trail centre

If i decide to keep my standard wheels, what tyres would you recommend please?

The stock wheels were damned heavy..... and feel it ...
However I don't know if that's going to bother you riding local bridleways .. but then is the T-130 the right bike for that... I suppose to depends on you're bridleways... mine I would take a hard tail but yours might be a different grade...

rascal - Member
I've emailed Whyte twice in the last week about potentially buying a rubber downtube/bb protector - no response whatsoever - sure they say they'll be back within a couple of days. No tel number either. Not exactly important in the big scheme of things but pretty naff from them. Hope they're not this slack if I ever have a proper bike issue with them

They couldn't be arsed replying to the 3 emails I sent them either...

I now put on the 50mm stem from Patriot pro (cheers)

You're very welcome, appreciate the swift and easy transaction, good comms too. cheers.

PS - be sure to get an updated pic of the bike up when you can

Just a question, I saw some people had fitted 140mm forks, I'm toying with the idea of upgrading the Yari to a Pike and increasing the travel / running more sag. Anyone done this?

I swapped the Revelation 130's to Pike 130's and it felt a bit weird (not sure how to describe that) .. but after upgrading the Pikes to 140mm it then stopped being weird and just felt like more travel, stiffer and plusher...

I didn't actually bother checking the numbers like the A/C as I figured .. they stick Pike on anyway... but to my mind it feels better at 140mm than 130mm...
3 Days at FOD on the uplift and I'm loving the upgrade and pedalling round Swinley and Summer Lightning since it hasn't affected the climbing ... if anything it might be slightly better as the LSC feels much better.

PS - be sure to get an updated pic of the bike up when you can

Will do but trying to avoid back garden shots 😀 (especially in the rain)
Also considering putting the carbon wheels back on... I ran FOD with the stock rear but using the stock front tyre and a Hans Dampf on the front... so I'm considering pulling them off and sticking them on the Carbon wheels which barely get used on the XC bike...

I'm thinking I'll pull the shock off and do a service as well and also considering going back to 1x10 as the 42T cassette just acts like a 10 speed at the moment as I never use the 42T and I just gave my 34T N/W to the kid.. maybe if I stick a decent back tyre on I'll find a use for the 42T but currently traction gives out first and I don't want a longer stem again 😀

Thanks for advise on the wheels. For now i am going to stick with the heavy wheels and maybe look to upgrade a few bits for next summer to lighten the load. I will be taking a trip to Dalby Forest for the first time next weekend, i imagine it is going to be a wet one. What tyres would you suggest for Dalby and for use over the winter months please?

rascal - Member
I've emailed Whyte twice in the last week about potentially buying a rubber downtube/bb protector - no response whatsoever - sure they say they'll be back within a couple of days. No tel number either. Not exactly important in the big scheme of things but pretty naff from them. Hope they're not this slack if I ever have a proper bike issue with them

Lots of similar experience if the user on Whyte Owners FB group are anything to go by. Lots of success contacting Whyte through FB tho apparently.

Cheers pp - have FBd them - let's count the days til I get a response!

Called ATB Sales and spoke to Russ there who was very helpful.
Answered straight away and called back with an answer having spoken to one of the design team.
They offered a protector for the carbon works up to the alu RS and shape very different so a no-go there.
Good phone response - shite web response is wot I lernt today 😉

I have a 2015 T-130 Works with the ROAM40 wheelset which are light, narrow and have terrible bearings!

My current issue with them is a freewheel that no longer clicks when free wheeling and has failed to engage i.e. no drive when pedalling. I've stripped it down and cleaned it, added a small amount of grease but still no click. I'm guessing it's either totally knackered pawls (they look fine) or that the drive ring is worn although it doesn't look terrible. Anyone had a similar experience pr have any ideas about where the click has gone?

Rascal - look at the Remedy one I linked earlier. It should be ok from my guess.

Anyone put frame protection on? Someone mentioned invisiframe earlier? Is the 2017 frame shape as the 2018?

I invisiframe'd my 2017 C-RS.

Very fiddly, plan on a whole evening and don't rush it. Put some music on and grab a beer. First few were extremely frustrating, but after getting into the hang of it (and probably the beer) it got easier and more relaxing.

The kit and coverage is very good though. As far as I know the 2018 frame should be the same.

I emailed Invisiframe and they said the 17 and 18 frames are the same.

I bought a 2x1' sheet from Shackwrap for £32 posted.
Made templates from paper that covered the key areas which took ages, then used those to cut the matte film out. Looks pretty good tbh but when you factor in the time it's prob worth paying the £72 and knowing you get the coverage with a bespoke kit. Use a squirty bottle with water and baby shampoo and keep everything wet, including your fingers and frame. Float the pieces on the mist on the bike and when you're happy with the position just squeegee the water out with a credit card. You need to be patient on curves etc but worth it.

I know rear shock upgrades that fit are a hot topic... j-tech have supplied me a stx-22 tuned for the frame - is amazing, and rven better fits with no issues.

Really economical with its travel, nice and sensitive and shrugs of big hits and landings well.

[img]http://<img src="https://thumb.ibb.co/jpeA4F/IMG_4436.jpg" alt="IMG_4436" border="0"> <img src="https://thumb.ibb.co/gDnKya/IMG_4437.jpg" alt="IMG_4437" border="0">[/img]

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Now with Pike 140mm goodness and the short but matching stem.... still with the rear Whyte/WTB wheel with the supplied front tyre on the back... and still with the short hoses I need to think about changing t route internally at some point...

Almost new (a few rides at FOD but not really pedalling) Nano-X pedal failed already... after a max 2-3 miles of actual pedalling!!! Pulled it apart last night and the inside was dirty .. not really bad but the grease was going black... so not sure if the seal was fitted badly or the end cap wasn't fully fitted and let in water/mud ... but I pulled the axle it and cleaned it and put it back together.... I might strip it again before riding and take the seal and give it a proper clean and redo.

Thanks for advise on the wheels. For now i am going to stick with the heavy wheels and maybe look to upgrade a few bits for next summer to lighten the load. I will be taking a trip to Dalby Forest for the first time next weekend, i imagine it is going to be a wet one. What tyres would you suggest for Dalby and for use over the winter months please?

I don't know Dalby but it doesn't seem specifically sharp rocks ...
Rear tyres are if anything more contentious than front... in that its the compromise between fast rolling and grip ... and even how much grip .. some people like the back to slide more ...

That said I can say I'm actually pretty happy with the front Trail Boss 2.25 as supplied on the back... except it does feel a bit heavy... and the Hans Dampf on the front which is an OK general tyre... (not astounding at anything but pretty good at most)

This is a pretty cheap way to try ... you only need buy one tyre... and you can always switch back the rear tyre if it feels too draggy on long rides...

Most of that will be what you ride.... how fast you want to ride it etc.
Personally I'll ride a bit slower overall if it means more grip on places I'm likey to break something

(We just did 3 days uplift at FOD and ideally I'd have stuck a really big tyre on and put the Hans Dampf on the back ... that said I'd ordered some big (2.5) tyres for Jnr ... that didn't arrive in time and he ended up on his Rocket Rons which were OK) but we rode swinley yesterday and he wasn't even for trying the DH tyres 😀 (smart move I'd say)

For now i am going to stick with the heavy wheels and maybe look to upgrade a few bits for next summer to lighten the load.

[u]Retrospectively[/u] what I should have done was pay about the extra £40 or £50 they were doing on the Stans on the New Years deal... but hey we live and learn....but either way there often seems to be good deals on upper-mid-range wheels from various places and you just need to have decided what you are keeping an eye out for... I reckon with the current resurge of 29ers there could be a few stock adjustments and hence bargains on 27.5 ...

[img] https://imgur.com/a/gXHcY [/img]

oakesy2001uk - interested to hear any more thoughts on the STX compared to the Monarch. Also, how do you find the climb switch? I think I read it locks out the HSC rather than LSC for some reason on the Ohlins which sounds counter intuitive to me!

Im really impressed with the stx, way better than the monarch in every way. Very composed without losing the playful feel.
Small adjustment range - all setting you can actually use, the middle is the reccomendation for weight and rising style ( anpretty much spot on).
I dont feel the need for a climb switch with it, its still nicely plush witha but of lsc dialled in.
I believe the climb switch controlls the hsc threshhold, but also moves the lsc. It feels plenty firm anyway. Not a lock out - like the ccdb but without the slow rebound I'd say.

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Had another great ride on mine at the weekend on the super steep trails at the Wrekin. Still such a fun bike and capable on pretty much any terrain.

Oakesy - I like the lockout/climb switch not to stop pedal bob, but to prop the back end up on steep climbs. Makes it more comfortable and keeps the front end down a bit. I guess I run the rear shock quite soft so you get a lot of sag from weight transfer when it goes up steep. The CCDB and Monarch both seem to prop up quite well, sounds like the Ohlins does similar?

Just back from a big weekend in the Lakes on the T130..

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Nan Bield on Friday in torrential rain and 40mph winds

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Helvellyn on Saturday (up Dollywagon and down Sticks) in thick cloud and high winds

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A bit more of a gentle one over Boredale Hause Pass on the Sunday morning.

Happy to report the T130 was brilliant throughout. For a short travel, capable climber it absolutely blasts down the rocky descents with massive confidence and was great fun everywhere!

Just a quick one Guys, while I was cleaning my T130 c-rs 2018 model I turned it upside down and noticed that the plastic cable guide that holds the brake and rear mech cable was causing some nasty cable rub.
I've only ridden it three times so its gone quite quickly. Took the guide off and cable tied it.
Worth checking.

pantsman - Member
Chaps

There seems to be a lot of you swapping the stock wheels.

MrsbeanZ RS came with sram roam 30s , changed them DT xm421 on pro4 hubs its the first upgrade shes actually noticed and comment on without prompting .

cogglepin - do you mean rubbing through the cable outers or the frame? Can't see any obvious wear on my frame as the cables are held quite far away from it.

Watching a large T130s on ebay with interest! Don't see many coming up for sale and do love the T130s!

jayx2a - Member 

Watching a large T130s on ebay with interest! Don't see many coming up for sale and do love the T130s!

There's one or two on the Whyte Facebook group up for sale - the last I saw was stoke-on-trent.

I don't know the seller/no affiliation etc but if you want me to put you in touch just let me know.

Just a quick one Guys, while I was cleaning my T130 c-rs 2018 model I turned it upside down and noticed that the plastic cable guide that holds the brake and rear mech cable was causing some nasty cable rub.
I've only ridden it three times so its gone quite quickly. Took the guide off and cable tied it.
Worth checking.

Mine was rubbing through the outer pretty badly, so i taped it up with electrical tape.

Mintman - is it a public Facebook group? Will have a search!

It's a closed group "Whyte Bikes Owners" but the admin seemed quick enough to accept requests. The post that I was looking at was someone called Ken Beech from 1626 on Sunday. Good luck in your hunt for a bike!

Bacondoublechee, as Weeksey says it was my cables that were wearing through.

How are people finding the t130 with fox suspension? There is a nice looking bike on pinkbike but the MBR review on YouTube seemed pretty unimpressed with the fox over rockshox.

Hopes front and rear, newgrips, new pedals. All in KTM orange of course

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How are people getting on with the WTB tyres?
Managed to put holes in the sidewall of my rear Trailboss in the Lakes this weekend - looking to change it anyway as not sure it'll be much good doing the winter months. Strange position to get a puncture as right next to the rim - bunged an anchovy in but not holding up too well, then found air coming out of other side of tyre (not directly opposite) - was descending on slate at time. What have you changed to if you're not running these tyres anymore?

Best get that front QR pointing back or up...