Just bought one.. flippin' small!
I do, but with a compact up front. Even then I don't use the bike it's on in hilly areas.
Nah. Depends on the terrian, but 12-28 gives a nicer spread and cadence options rather than a slow grind and gurning up some hills!
I do. 36-50 on the front.
I do (also with a 50/34 compact)
and another one on my DH bike (the cassette, not the chainset)
I do, with a 53/39 up front. Not that I'm manly or anything, just on the race bike which is really just for crits.
I do with a 50/34 compact.
Well I wanted 52/11 for my flat race as 50/12 the other day was pretty spinny out when I was draughting my mate on his time trial bike and not even going that hard.
Might be alright, given I ride a triple normally but I have some steep hills. Should have got 11-28
Yep. On 50/34. Can manage most stuff up to about 20-25% provided it isn't too long. The 50/11 gear is big enough for me. The closeness of the gears on block is the main appeal for me.
11-25 with 53/39, it's pretty flat in the royal county of West Berkshire. 11-23 on the TT bike.
25 and a compact got me up Alpe d'Huez, Col de Joux Plane (3 times) & Avoriaz the other year....
Never span out but then when you can hit 45+ mph on the descents who needs to pedal!
Yep, I do. 11-25 with 53/ 39 on my summer bike and same with winter trainer except I have a compact on that.
I find the ratios become too wide when I go over a 25.
Used to use 11-23 with 53/39, only changed a year or so back!
nope. 11-32.
i'm unfit and I live on dartmoor.
I find the ratios become too wide when I go over a 25.
Still feel there's a bit of an annoying jump in the middle of the cassette when shifting up even with an 11-25, I think it's when it goes from 15 to 17.
If you want to race then a 53/39 with a 12/25 block is perfect. If you can't climb steep hills on the 39-25 they you'll be out the back anyway.
For normal, general riding then a compact 50/34 with an 11/25 block is probably better.
11-23 all year with a 53/39 up front.
11-25 for cross
Used to have 11-25 with 48/34 on a slicked-up commuter MTB.
Guy in our club who races loads runs a 11-23 with a 53/[b]42[/b] up front!
Still feel there's a bit of an annoying jump in the middle of the cassette when shifting up even with an 11-25, I think it's when it goes from 15 to 17.
Very true, but I have got used to it now.
11-28 here, but 11 speed so I don't get any big jumps through the block. 52-36 Q rings up front.
In TT setup I use 11-25, but 11 speed again - so just get an extra bailout gear vs 11-23. Was enough to get me up Ditchling Beacon last weekend, and spun out the 52-11 on the way down the other side 🙂
Yes me, but just changed to 12:30 as I'm doing some lumps soon.. 😀
13-23 with 39/50 here.
[b]dragon - Member[/b]
If you want to race then a 53/39 with a 12/25 block is perfect. If you can't climb steep hills on the 39-25 they you'll be out the back anyway.For normal, general riding then a compact 50/34 with an 11/25 block is probably better.
What this bloke says
What would you be doing with an 11t sprocket anyway?
i used to use 13-23 with 42/52, and tbh never had a problem getting up anything.
mate had 12-19 with 42/52, that was a bit much on even a moderate gradient.
i currently use 12-28 with 34/50 on both road and cx bikes, i would probably prefer 11-25 tbh, i never use the bottom 3 gears.
either that or go 36 or even 38 up front to get rid of the annoying jump between rings.
i am both fat and unfit, however its rarely gearing that makes me push up hills, its usually laziness/boredom.
Got a shiny SRAM Red one in the garage, took off bike after 500 miles of pain around the Lake District lanes, much happier with my 11-28, spin to win!!!! I reckon they are for under 45 year olds!!!
Me, 53,39 on the front, live in the lakes - I ride around the big hills
Even on the little ones am repeating the mantra, MUST....BUY...COMPACT!
If you want to race then a 53/39 with a 12/25 block is perfect. If you can't climb steep hills on the 39-25 they you'll be out the back anyway.
Pretty much sums it up. Hence lots of wannabe racers have struggled for years with totally unsuitable gearing cos they want to look like the pro's!
For normal, general riding then a compact 50/34 with an 11/25 block is probably better.
For most people, a 12-30 or even 12-32 cassette makes far more sense. It's not that you should always be using the easy gear to get up the climbs, more that it's there when you're still 20 miles from home already with 80 in your legs, and there's a steep climb in the way that otherwise you'd be walking up.
Still feel there's a bit of an annoying jump in the middle of the cassette when shifting up even with an 11-25, I think it's when it goes from 15 to 17.
That's why racers have typically still used 12-25 blocks. The 16 in the middle is more useful to them than the 11T that gets used very infrequently at speeds you're better off tucking in an aero position at anyway.
The answer now is of course to go 11spd (something Campag evangelists will have been saying for a while of course) and you can have your cake and eat it so to speak.
It's funny how times have changed anyway... Was watching footage of the 2002 TdF recently Phil Ligget was banging on about Lance Armstrong spinning away at 100rpm in an ultra low gear whilst his competition was out the saddle and pushing a harder gear... Lance's "ultra low gear" of course being 39/25!!! My how times have changed... Nairo Quintana's Canyon sported a 34/50 compact and a 12-29 cassette for the hilliest stages of the Giro this year, and in 2012 when Wiggins won the TdF he is known to have used an 11-36 Mountain Bike cassette (with modified Di2 rear derailleur to cope) to give him the gears to get up the hills!
Yep, 11-25 & 52/39 on the Shropshire/Mid Wales borders.
Hard work, but I'm now fitter & a stronger climber than I used to be!
11-25 39/52 here, not had to get off and push yet....think a 28 would be quite nice though sometimes.
Used to ride 52/42 with a six speed 12-24 which was "interesting" on some hills. Now ride 50/34 with a ten speed 12-25 and it's rare that I need to use the 25. There comes a point where no matter what the gearing that I'd rather get out of the saddle and grind at about 50rpm rather than spin.
It should be noted that I'm no spring chicken nor exactly svelte!
When in doubt, rule #5 applies.
11-25, 50/34 does make some of the roads round here (Exmoor and the Quantocks)a bit of a challenge.
Pretty sure wiggo just went 38/32 on tdf 2012.
52/36 x 11-25. I can get up most things (I might put a 12-28 on when I go to the alps). To be honest though Warwickshire isn't that hilly. Plus, I'm used to dragging a bike twice the weight, with 2.3" tyres at sub 30psi and 34 x 12-36 up longer, steeper, rougher climbs at the weekends. The descents are worth it though 😉
What would you be doing with an 11t sprocket anyway?
Tried 12-23 on the TT bike and missed the 11t. Ended up fitting a 55t chainring, but 55/12 was still quite a bit less than 53/11. I reckon you do lose quite a lot if you ditch the 11t. 53/12 is about 31mph at 90rpm, which is pretty quick but quite doable and even on the road bike I reckon it would leave me wanting a bigger gear. Now want to go 11sp 🙂
Just changed my 10 sp 11 to 25 t 11 to 28. Seemed to weirdly get a fastest climb on my route after I stuck it on, knees seem happier and all round bonus for the extra 20 grammes its all good to me. Run 50 -34 up front. Done a few sportives, which they make you go up Everest, so decided after doing 60 miles and facing that, would rather ride it than walk.
i do (but then i live in Norfolk, so could use a 11-12 cassette really)
Interesting, thanks folks. I may leave it on after the race and put the triple back on, since I do find myself spinning out on DHs quite a bit.
There are plenty of 1:5s around here and a few 1:4s that are hard enough for a fat bastard on a 12-28 though!
13-25 here.
Man sized chainrings though.
compact, 11- 25 here,
no problems at all in surrey or Wiltshire riding.
3 times up the tourmalet ([url= http://www.clubcinglesventoux.org/en.html ]club des cingles[/url]) was a little less comfortable than would have been nice but still manageable
On the 10 speed 50/36 with 11-23 was fine (West Mids) but couldn't get a replacement in 105 so changed to 11-25 and now really miss the 16.
Have 11-25 on the 11 speed with 52/36, feels much better...
Compact with 12-25. Got up 25% with that but ended up walking on Hardknott/Wrynose.
Normally use a compact with 11-25 that came with the bike. Put a 11-28 on for winching up the climbs on the Wiggle Dragon Ride and it was almost enough. Had to walk for about 100yds that to be honest I should have just cracked on with in hindsight.
Living in Cambridgeshire though, the hills were a bit of a shock to the system to be honest although got up them OK.
I did try a 48 outer ring recently too (so 34/48on the front) as I tend to be at the small end of the cassette in the small ring and the big end of the cassette in the big ring, so thought a 48T might get me into the middle range of the cassette more in the big ring.
But, the 48T Stronglight ring I bought wouldn't shift with the 34T Shimano inner ring. Keep meaning to have another go getting it set-up and then perhaps buying a 34T Stronglight inner ring to match the outer and see if that works.
11-25 with standard double here (Basque Country / western Pyrenees). Can get over anything including a local climb with 33% ramps because with Speedplay cleats, walking is not an option!
I'm not that fit this year though and a long nasty climb last week (10km @12% in the last third of a very hilly 175km) left me wishing for a compact.
I use a 11-25 and a 50/34. I'm always skeptical of people who say they spin out when using a 50. Especally when 50x11 is a higher gear than 52x12.
Think my road bike is a 12-21 7sp cassette, with 42/52 up front (formerly biopace, now round). Would have to go count the teeth to confirm.
Think the CX is 12-27 with a 34/50 compact. Could use a slightly wider range for hills.
Especally when 50x11 is a higher gear than 52x12.
50/11 is closest to 55/12. It's surprising how much difference a single tooth at the back makes compared to a much bigger ring at the front (though I guess in percentage terms it's about the same step up.)
12-25 on 11sp campag at the back, compact at the front. Very rarely used the smallest of the gears around fife and tayside. Has got me around the Fred Whitton and up and over alpine cols with no drama. Never really felt the need for anything bigger at the front but I'm not a powerhouse and don't mind spinning quickly.
My first road bike had a 13-23 with 42/52 chainrings
Mind you, my first mountain bike had a 12-28 with 28/38/48 chainrings
I don't really remember having any problems - I think hills must have been flatter back then.
My summer road bike has 11-25 with a 39/53 chainset cos that's what was cheap when I built it, it will probably be changed to 12-28 when I get round to it cos the 11 had never been used (53-11 is cav's sprinting gear)
50x12 at 90RPM is just short of 30mph. I'm not sure many people spin this gear out, present company excepted of course.
[b]mrblobby - Member [/b]
Tried 12-23 on the TT bike and missed the 11t. Ended up fitting a 55t chainring, but 55/12 was still quite a bit less than 53/11. I reckon you do lose quite a lot if you ditch the 11t. 53/12 is about 31mph at 90rpm, which is pretty quick but quite doable and even on the road bike I reckon it would leave me wanting a bigger gear. Now want to go 11sp
But 90RPM can't be anywhere near spinning out for you?
I don't consider it to be spinning out until about 120rpm personally. I prefer to TT at about 85-90 myself, but will just spin faster when needed.
It is only for very short durations, as you pointed out its 30mph+ and if you are averaging that for a full 10 then Kudos to you squire!
All my Time trials are on undulating technical terrain. No Carriageway stuff.
Suppose it depends on rider and courses.
But you know Der Panzerwagen uses oversized chainrings so that he doesnt have to use the 11t sprocket much - you lose valuable watts with that selection!
Mine came with either an 11 or 12-25. Might be suitable for a proper roadie but ****-all use for me 😆
9spd 11-26 here (with 53/39) not sure how I ended up with that, original was 12-26. Could do with a compact or mini compact tho, don't do much road riding but when I do there tend to be big hills involved. Did a biggy last week that included winnats, 39x26 is not a good gear for getting up there - not for me anyway, I reckon any hardknott/honister routes are out til I get a smaller chainset.
weird innit, I didn't used to go up monster hills in the lakes BITD, 22x32 is very much appreciated for that sort of thing. Mind you local hills which I must have ridden up 28x28 back then I now spin up in 22x32. Think I must have become more of a spinner* than a stomper over the years - whether the drive behind the change is down to my ageing legs or the lower gears I'm not sure...Mind you, my first mountain bike had a 12-28 with 28/38/48 chainringsI don't really remember having any problems - I think hills must have been flatter back then.
*or just lazier/slower
Different strokes and all that, I've ridden with all sorts of folks on long/hilly rides, some sit and spin a 34/25-27 and others do it all on a 39/25 but grind up steep slopes at about the same speed - whatever works for you works, but it's worth exploring options to see what you prefer. I'm a bit more spinny and have a 36/27 on the posh bike, have to say that I like to get out of the saddle when it gets too steep for 65+ rpm in that gear, but then I'm happy riding for quite long periods (relatively speaking!) out of the saddle.
I prefer to TT at about 85-90 myself, but will just spin faster when needed.
I'll be about 90rpm for most of a TT, but towards the end I usually find I can make the most power by pushing a bigger gear with a lower cadence, so 53/11@80rpm to give 30mph (or 55/12@80 for about 29mph) would be about right.
50x12 at 90RPM is just short of 30mph. I'm not sure many people spin this gear out
After a certain rpm though efficieny starts to drop, I reckon.
I have lost my powertap computer.. will be gutted if I cannot find it for the weekend 🙁
My road bike came with a 11-25, it lasted a week before I stuck a 28 on.
After a certain rpm though efficieny starts to drop, I reckon.
Most studies that I've seen found that the most efficient cadence was between 80 and 100 rpm, but I'd take them all with a large degree of uncertainty due to the huge differences in human physiological make up.
My theory is that the larger and heavier your legs are, the more energy is wasted simply moving them up and down. Pedalling like hell in 22/34 on an MTB is very tiring but you hardly go anywhere. So the sweet spot would presumably depend on your build, with lighter people generally benefitting from somewhat higher cadence.
That sounds like science
used to have 52/39 and an 11-25 when I was a 60-70 rpm grinder.
now use a 50/34 and an 12-27 and spin more at 80-90 rpm.
don't think I'm any faster or slower, but I can go further and my knees don't hurt.
11-25 with 9sp triple here, still aiming for 60mph down Kop Hill & lowest ratio about the same as a compact with 11-28 cassette but without annoying jumps anywhere 😉
I'm an ok descender and it's got very little to do with gear ratios, it's about line, position, confidence and staying off the brakes. Or maybe I'm just fat 😉
11-25 and compact here. Hardly ever use the 34 around where I live (East Berkshire), but find the setup fine in the Alps. I do have a 12-27, just in case, though...
Race: 52/39 and 11/23 (circuit) and 12/25 (road)
Road: 50/34 and 12/25 or 12/28 (lumpy)
"50x12 at 90RPM is just short of 30mph"
My AVERAGE cadence was [url= http://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/523207289 ]104 rpm[/url] in my last race, and I raced the compact at many races last season. In higher cat races I need the 52, but it would be no big deal if I didn't have the 11T on either bike set up.
I do miss the 16T cog though and was recently looking at 12/21.
Not a huge difference between 52 and 50 at the front though, less than half a tooth at the back.
When I was a callow youth I had a 12-18 straight through block with 42-52.
Only managed a year on it before going back to 21/23. But anything bigger was for OAPs (i.e. people over 40).
No idea what I have now, but it's definitely bigger than 23 🙂
You recording zeros? That seems high! Last race was 87 avg and 137 max but I wasn't doing a great deal of work...
I'm on a 10 speed 52-36/27x12 and think it'd be perfect if it was 11 speed, there's just one slight jump in the middle of the cassette that my legs don't quite agree with.
I spend a fair bit of time I'm the small ring to keep spinning
My road bike dates back to when a good bike was a pro one so 11/23 49/53. I don't spend much time at 53/11 that's for sure! [b]
All my road bikes are compact chainsets. Here in the S.Wales valleys its kinda wise to.
Winter bike has 12-25.
Spare bike has 12-27.
Summer bike has 11-26.
For me - the 11-26 is perfect. Climbs anything easy enough. The 12-27 was a bit too spinny even on the steeper climbs.
12-25 on 10speed here with 53/39 up front in the Peaks. Could use a slightly lower bottom end, but wouldn't want to lose any top. Pretty much every ride I break 40mph (48.something today), and most descents are at 30+, so I spend a fair amount of time in the 12 & 13. (I stop applying useful power at about 42mph, fully redlined about 45). I'm 10 stone, not racing anybody and quite enjoy climbing out the saddle, so I don't find the bottom end very limiting up until steeper than 1 in 4s. Winnats is very unpleasant, but doable if I really want to.
I'll be sticking a 11-25 on if I ever end up going compact (which would be a sensible thing to do, but I keep putting off spending the cash!)
molgrips, if yours is 11sp shimano and you want a straight swap I have an unfitted ultegra 11-28 and would prefer smaller
If you want to race then a 53/39 with a 12/25 block is perfect. If you can't climb steep hills on the 39-25 they you'll be out the back anyway.
Bovine excrement.
You recording zeros? That seems high! Last race was 87 avg and 137 max but I wasn't doing a great deal of work...
Yes, of course. Years spent riding fixed, coupled with legs like stcks, mean that i spin like an electric drill! Power = force x velocity. I don't have the force, so to put out those 300 watts i need velocity. 90-100 for normal riding, 100-110 for racing.
Funny thing is, i ride SS mountain bike with 32x17, including races, and can still spin along at 16 mph on the flat.
Probably something in molgrips theory then. I've quite heavy legs from years of running. Spinning at 95 is fine most of the time but for longer efforts around threshold or above I tend to settle into a steady 88rpm, just seems to work best for me.
Great to see sooo many different ratios we all ride.
Just goes to show what a wide range of both abilities and geography we play on.
8)
I trained myself to pedal at 90 or so because that's what you do, but I often find that I can get a bit more power at the end of a ride by going lower.