[Closed] Who has the lightest full suss bike on here?

Seem to remember someone on here had built up a sub 20lb FS Trek somehow.....

Njee I think, 19.8lbs trek

Though I think the lightest ever was a giant trance with DH kit and a 100g saddle...

The manufacturer of my xc bike claims a sub 23lb build is possible, but I reckon it would be terrible.

This should be fun 😆

Me.

Not on here but...

[url= http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=135256 ]7kg stumpjumper[/url]

I wouldn’t ride it if you paid me...

Edit just noticed he’s running rigid forks. I’m sure there was someone who had done similar but had essentially removed all the internals of the forks, even cut bits out of the lower legs?

Get those magic scales out everyone!

didn't Njee remove his fork damper to reduce weight!?

Pounds? What is this the 60's all over again?

Yeesh, my Orbea Oiz is 10.5kg and that's with dropper and boat anchor xt cassette. I reckon sub 10kg would be easy if I didn't have the dropper so I'm going to have to put a bit more thought (and cash) into it...

I think [url= http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=144357 ]this guy[/url] has the most usable weightweenie xc bikes I've seen in a long time.

Not on here but...

7kg stumpjumper

I wouldn’t ride it if you paid me...

Edit just noticed he’s running rigid forks. I’m sure there was someone who had done similar but had essentially removed all the internals of the forks, even cut bits out of the lower legs?

He doesn't trust carbon frames but is using homemade carbon parts on his stem/bars. And also removed bolts from his brake rotors to save weight. Interesting.

I wouldn’t ride it if you paid me...

Its not actually a full sus either as he has a rigid fork on it..

I have to say thats the weirdest build I've ever seen in my life, reasonably heavy alloy full sus frame and rigid forks, then the lightest kit hanging off it..

I love how he says he doesn't trust carbon frames!!

didn't Njee remove his fork damper to reduce weight!?

I believe so. He also ran helium in his tyres and water in his brake lines (as it's lighter than oil).

I may attach some helium balloons to my helmet then try to get some KOMs on strava

some of the effort those guys go to on the weight weenies threads is insane..the dude sanding the paint off his spokes to save weigh seems overkill to me..

My Scalpel is 22.3lb with the pedals on.

My 29er Trek Superfly SL Carbon fs Bike is 22lbs with sids, am classic race, 1x11 XX1, EC90 Carbon post n bars

My old 26er scalpel was a true ww build - it was in the 18s with stupid tyres but 19s with sensible and more rideable rubber attached.

My habit black is around 22 with 2.3 nicks and 2x11 xtr.

12.5kg or 27lbs.

Not bad for a 170mm full sus including pedals, dropper and 2.4 protection casing tyres.

12.5kg or 27lbs.

Not bad for a 170mm full sus including pedals, dropper and 2.4 protection casing tyres.

Indeed, it’s the same as my 100mm travel carbon xc bike, with 120mm forks, the lightest wheelset DT Swiss make, 2.2 xc tyres and XX1. Chapeau...

I've never actually weighed any of my bikes or components and given the size of me I tend to buy for (perceived) ruggedness and durabilty so I don't think I will be winning any lightest bike competitions. Out of curiosity, if you take the rider as a constant how much of an advantage would a 22-23lb bike have over a 31-32lb bike in either average MPH or secs per hour?

Not on here but...

7kg stumpjumper

I wouldn’t ride it if you paid me...

Read some of the thinking behind his bike... He (let's face it, it will be a he) is rather special. Need to entice him here for the entertainment

Indeed, it’s the same as my 100mm travel carbon xc bike, with 120mm forks, the lightest wheelset DT Swiss make, 2.2 xc tyres and XX1. Chapeau...

It helps that I'm short and it's quite a small bike.

I’ve just bought a 10 year old Orange 5. Somehow it weighs 32lb. That’s with me ditching the dropper and putting light tyres on it.
My new Anthem clocks in at 26.

What did you expect the 10 year old Orange 5 to weigh?

About the same as a 19 year old Marin. 29lb.
Even a new 4 clocks in about 30. God knows why.

Having just read the whole of that linked thread I couldn't agree more

Read some of the thinking behind his bike... He (let's face it, it will be a he) is rather special. Need to entice him here for the entertainment

Could make for some interesting threads

Btw none of my bikes are particularly light but I wanted to join the conversation !

Circa 2011 they made a bigish deal about the 5 slimming down to 30lbs for the first time. Cant remember how high a spec it was to get that weight. Always been a slightly heavy bike. Good bike, though I always thought mine climbed like a bit of a dog.

If your 19 year old Marin is a mount vision or similar (I had a 1999 I think) I’d expect that to be considerably lighter than the 5.

Apart from conscious experiments to drop weight, over the years my bikes have nearly all arrived at about 30lbs, plus or minus.

By the time I've added tyre that last, brakes that work, pedals that are realistically serviceable, etc, etc. They all end up in the same place.

Except my Banshee. That's a 33lb trail bike, but I built it to step up to the more lairy side of trail thumping.

170mm meta am v2, comes in a 9.9kg,yoi can borrow my scales for 50 quid a go, best weigh saving value anywhere 😉

State wheel size when quoting weights as 26ers could be built far lighter than 29ers.

My old Kona FS weighed 21.5lbs, but I'm not sure that's possible with a 29er without going nuts. The wheels were 1250 and the tyres about 400g.

Taxi25 has a carbon Superfly FS 29er that's 22lbs or so he says. Having lifted it I can believe it.

Out of curiosity, if you take the rider as a constant how much of an advantage would a 22-23lb bike have over a 31-32lb bike in either average MPH or secs per hour?

No idea BUT it will feel far nicer going uphill. There is a world of difference between those weights, far more than you would expect. Bikes that light surge forward so quickly when you mash the pedals. Because the wheels spin up so much more easily you can be in a higher gear for your pedal stroke and gain that much more speed more quickly. If you have some windy trails that require you to brake and accelerate a lot and move the bike around it's fantastic; if you have some technical climb then the bike seems to leap forwards and upwards so easily.

If you are simply winching up a big smooth hill it makes naff all difference.

I’ve just bought a 10 year old Orange 5. Somehow it weighs 32lb. That’s with me ditching the dropper

27.2? Selling? 🙂

10 year old Five is 26"

10.8kg Scott Spark 720 with carbon wheels,dropper and XTR 1x11. Could be substantially lighter, but its very rideable as is.

Molgrips. Left dropper with the seller give him a call.
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fs-orange-5-medium

2011 Anthem 10.2kg Small frame, carbon bars/seatpost/saddle etc I still have it and enjoy a ride on it now and again.

Not me

I ride a Transition, light bike threads are not for the likes of me.

There’s a bloke on mtbr whom built a mojo hd3 at 23lbs just over for his mrs, does that count!

I took 1lb off the HT without spending that much, and was pretty happy. Then I weighed it - 29lb.

It'll be 28lb or maybe a bit less with summer tyres on, but still I think I'll need to try harder.

The fact that the OP has to state his weight includes pedals says it all though. It ends up like people that quote all their rides in km.

The fact that the OP has to state his weight includes pedals says it all though. It ends up like people that quote all their rides in km.

eh, dont follow?

everyone - Member

Yeesh, my Orbea Oiz is 10.5kg and that's with dropper and boat anchor xt cassette. I reckon sub 10kg would be easy

I’m interested know which model - the M30? - that is and if thats the OEM weight?

my SS is heavier than some of those bikes [ 26 er as well] not that i have made any effort to make it light

[quote=Kryton57 ]everyone - Member
Yeesh, my Orbea Oiz is 10.5kg and that's with dropper and boat anchor xt cassette. I reckon sub 10kg would be easy
I’m interested know which model - the M30? - that is and if thats the OEM weight?

It's the M10 so the same frame as the top end model. Not stock no, different saddle, mt zoom carbon bars, giant carbon wheels (~1600g I think), Ti bolts and swapped to schwalbes.

Could easily get to 10kg or less if I changed to an xd driver and got a sram cassette, sorted out all the cables (really want to get a twinloc lockout, the fox 3 position one is rubbish!) etc. Once I've got those sorted then it's big things like new cranks and brakes (both XT at the minute so not complete boat anchors)

Sometimes I do wonder where all the weight in a bike is

My Caad x weighs only 200 g less than my ASCR. Sure its got 2x10 tiagra gears on it, but its also got a frame weighing not much more than a kilo, carbon forks etc etc

I had assumed it would weigh around the 8.5-9 kg range

Just goes to show how much all the 'cheap' original parts that are on there must add up to, finishing kit etc etc

Does it really matter? Me & my mates went through this 20 years ago & the general consensus was, 'if your that bothered about weight, have a shit, shave & a haircut before you go out on the bike'.

BUT... as in loads of threads on here have testified to, folk love to spout off about stuff like ^^^.

Anyway, I'm about 3 stone overweight so couldn't give a rats about how heavy my sub 29lb 2010 Orange Fiveling cabinet is. 🙂

And for whoever asked about how much difference a light bike makes for the average rider..

Theres a 1.2 mile climb near me that takes about 6 minutes on my 7kg road bike at a 240 watt average

On the aformentioned CX bike weighing 3kg more (albeit with 35mm gravel tyres rather than slicks) it takes 90 seconds more with similar power.

So i defintely think weight makes a big difference, far more than losing 3kg body mass.

I've never been that bothered about weight, although the very light bikes I've ridden always felt a bit skittish (they were rigid admittedly).

Does it really matter? Me & my mates went through this 20 years ago & the general consensus was, 'if your that bothered about weight, have a shit, shave & a haircut before you go out on the bike'.

Never understood that argument - yes do that and you'd lose weight, but if you save a pound of weight in your bike and do that you'll still be a pound lighter.

I've got a couple of very light (10kg-ish) FS bikes and I'm a big fan. There's something about attacking a trail on a light bike that you don't get on a heavier beast. Personally, I'm no epic downhiller, so short travel XC bikes suits me well and there's a fair amount of choice in these if you want a light bike.

My son's bike is a sub-10kg FS and this had a fair bit of effort put into it to get the weight right down. When you're a very light rider, there's no point in slogging around on 15kg of pig iron if you don't have to and running a light bike will translate pretty well into performance improvement.

it's a full sus but not as we know it:

[img] [/img]

22 lbs

Got an 857 frame in the garage you could buy from me. Newer so must = lighter eh? 🙂

<Edit> actually it's the carbon swingarm so it must be lighter!

it's a full sus but not as we know it:

only on a nice warm day

i once had a 24Seven DH bike, which weighed between 45 and 50lb. That was a brute.

PS. The stumpjumper bloke with the weird build. He has spent over £12000 on that...

i once had a 24Seven DH bike, which weighed between 45 and 50lb. That was a brute.

Positively svelte...

[img] [/img]

North of 50lbs...

On the aformentioned CX bike weighing 3kg more (albeit with 35mm gravel tyres rather than slicks) it takes 90 seconds more with similar power.

Is a pointless comparison. They only time it matters is when you're racing, and you wouldn't choose that bike to race on, you'd choose the other one. So saying this bike that weighs 42% more than the light one, and takes longer up a similar climb...well duh...

In the real world 90 seconds isn't worth worrying about.

Never understood that argument

if you are carrying substantially more weight than your height demands probably a lot less point trying to be a weight weenie re bike.

That's why I said people aren't doing it to be quicker. It feels better.

Incidentally, my 'new' Trek Superfly build is 28lbs, and that's an XC bike with some fairly light kit on it (and some middling). The wheels kill it at 1800g but getting much lighter than that costs £££.

Anyone got any hot tips for light 29er wheel builds that aren't megabucks? I have some Hope hubs I could use and an old XTR rear - but I'd need to pick up a 15mm XT front to go with it.

Anyone got any hot tips for light 29er wheel builds that aren't megabucks?

Guessing the number i23, i25 etc is the internal width?

I wonder for my XC bike how narrow I could go? The bike hasn't got much clearance so I'd be using 2.2s or less. It suggest i-23s are 440g each, which would make my light wheel build only about 200g heavier than my 26er wheels used to be, which would lead to a 1400-1500g wheelset. Hmm.

Is a pointless comparison. They only time it matters is when you're racing, and you wouldn't choose that bike to race on, you'd choose the other one. So saying this bike that weighs 42% more than the light one, and takes longer up a similar climb...well duh...

In the real world 90 seconds isn't worth worrying about.

I disagree.. We are discussing the merits of a light bike. Plenty of folks will do an mtb event on a 30lb bike and will be at an obvious disadvantage against someone on a bike that weighs 50% less. Obviously I'll pick the most suitable bike for the event but people are arguing that there is no advantage of a featherweight bike..so I assume don't have such a choice

Losing 90 seconds over 6 min of climbing whilst bimbling about with your mates is irrelevant, but in a race over a couple of hrs or more with multiple climbs I'd say it was fairly significant.

not the forks on my FS weigh near as much as my hardtail.....

coil lyriks vs a carbon 26er with sids and no gears.

But the FS is also made of carbon - that counts for something.

meanwhile fullsus is quite a wide catagory - i wouldnt fancy taking njees trek down where i take my ibis 😀 id almost bet on me carrying it at least the last 200m 😀

Guessing the number i23, i25 etc is the internal width?

When I split my i23 I swapped for i25 and was amazed with the difference. Next time, I'll go bigger again, I think...

I have a pair of 2015 Scott Spark's 900RC.
Both just under 22lbs.

[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4502/26334388319_0d54ec8339_k.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4502/26334388319_0d54ec8339_k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/G85CaV ]Untitled[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/144752456@N06/ ]mark tilley[/url], on Flickr

When I split my i23 I swapped for i25 and was amazed with the difference. Next time, I'll go bigger again, I think...

Hm. What tyres?

Looks like if I built my Hope hubs up with Sapim Laser and KOM i-23s it would be very roughly a 1600g wheelset. Not great but not bad for the cost. Might be worth saving up for carbon rims.

Re lightness - on technical climbs lighter bikes are much easier to manhandle up, which leaves more energy available for making progress.

I have a pair of 2015 Scott Spark's 900RC.

Why do you have two?

tp, sure, but you've just agreed with me, but from the other end of the same argument.

Nothing says 'life has turned out pretty well' quite like 2 matching super bikes on a driveway like that!

But yeah.. Why 2? Although perhaps a better question is 'why not'

I have a pair of 2015 Scott Spark's 900RC.

Why do you have two?

Couldn't decide between black or yellow grips by the look of it 🙂

Thred needs moar pitchers

tp, sure, but you've just agreed with me, but from the other end of the same argument.

I'm confused as to what the argument is then! All I'm saying is a light bike makes a difference, in reply to someone who asked how much difference it made earlier in the thread.

Obviously you choose the most suitable bike for the occasion, but to do that you need a suitable bike to chose from in the first place.

Ha ha
I have 2 because one is mine and the other is my sons.
Large and medium.
They do everything you need.
Stock wheels also.
Could go lighter.

Nothing says 'life has turned out pretty well' quite like 2 matching super bikes on a driveway like that!

Never mind that, he's so minted he can even afford/justify matching proper heavy duty stands for them 😉

It feels better.

Exactly this for me. I don't race and I ride on my own but as well as the lighter bike giving me marginally better Strava times it feels better. Feels better to turn, accelerate, jump over things, lean over etc,. etc,.
And as I ride a bike for fun the how it feels to ride part is considerable.

I have 5 of those stands!

I've got a magic set of scales ...

[img] ?1[/img]

... and no, the front wheel is not on the ground. Has my Genesis Day One Decade at 10.5kg, which is pretty much bang on as advertised.

Nick

"Out of curiosity, if you take the rider as a constant how much of an advantage would a 22-23lb bike have over a 31-32lb bike in either average MPH or secs per hour?"

I have a Cannondale Scalpel (22lb) & a Cannondale Trigger (27lb) and the difference is massive. When xc racing I went from top of bottom 1/3 to top 3 positions in my local events. The weight difference helps massively, but also the geometries then come into play - and my Scalpel is designed with climbing in mind. But its not just about speed - but because I use less energy with a lighter bike I can ride for longer too.
If its a social ride around a trail centre with mates on heavy bikes then ride what you want. But if you want to put in the miles or speed is important then weight will be a big advantage. Also makes a difference (especially if racing) where the weight saving is -- especially with unsprung weight like your wheels.

Nickwatson more pics please

When I split my i23 I swapped for i25 and was amazed with the difference. Next time, I'll go bigger again, I think...

Hm. What tyres?

Looks like if I built my Hope hubs up with Sapim Laser and KOM i-23s it would be very roughly a 1600g wheelset. Not great but not bad for the cost. Might be worth saving up for carbon rims.

Re lightness - on technical climbs lighter bikes are much easier to manhandle up, which leaves more energy available for making progress.

Dropping those 1600g alloy-rimmed wheels to, say, 1400g will cost you 3-4x as much (depending on whether you like Chinesium carbon or not). It may or may not be worth the money to you - I guess it depends on how much you value your light wheels. I've got my eye on some new rims for these wheels, probably for next spring, but for now the KOMs work well.

zippykona - Member

Nickwatson more pics please

As you wish ...

[img] [/img]

Not built light by any means. Pike 150mm fork, Hope Enduro wheels, HR2 tyres, XT 1x10 drivetrain (XTR mech), Thomson post, Renthal carbon bars.

My old 26er scalpel was a true ww build - it was in the 18s with stupid tyres but 19s with sensible and more rideable rubber attached.

Ditto here. It was 17.69lbs in Summer mode with SRAM XX1 and plenty of scope for further weight loss. I was one the verge of swapping out the XTR brakes for R1's, buying Hollowgrams, buying a Berk saddle combo and a few other bits which would have seen it closer to 16lbs... but then 29ers happened and I started to accept some things are more important than weight 😯 😀 Damn those beautiful riding big wheels!

What does an average FS bike weigh these days?