[Closed] Wheel Building Help Needed

How did you get to this point after lacing the wheel?

Normally you wind all of the nipples to the same starting point (maybe a couple of threads left showing) and then tighten them all up by the same amount until you get good tension (e.g. tighten each up by half a turn, then repeat).

I'm no expert, and have always just followed the wheelpro/Musson book slavishly, but if you haven't started to true the wheel, i.e. it's only been laced then the spokes aren't under any tension- when lacing you're just sticking the nipples on enough to stop them falling off the end of the spokes.

You then need to screw down all the nipples the same amount, ideally using some sort of a nipple driver as a gauge, to take up the slack. I assume this is the stage you're at- the goal is to ensure that the nipples are all screwed down equally.

Those drive side spokes probably should have been 258...

Buy the Roger Musson e-book if you haven't already.

yes I done that to start with, I started with 2mm of thread showing on the inside of the rim.

I notice that every third spoke was really loose so i tightened those so they felt similar, which ended up about 2mm of thread showing on the outside of the rim.

They're not exactly super loose with the 2mm of thread showing.

I think if I went for the 258mm length on the DS would mean they would be too short on those ones with the 2mm of thread showing on the inside.

I might tension up and see how they look. I was just expecting to see the same amount of thread so i could wind them all to the same starting point.

Thanks for the help and suggestions, much appreciated.

Have you laced it correctly?

Agree on DS being 258mm but provided the spokes don't protrude above the rim bed it should be OK. By all means start on the drive side first, but immediately tightening the spokes to protrude 2mm is probably too much too soon - I generally start with the nipples hide the thread and work progressively from there - get the DS tightened-up to get the rim round and true and then work on the NDS to pull the rim over to the right dish.

I notice that every third spoke was really loose so i tightened those so they felt similar, which ended up about 2mm of thread showing on the outside of the rim.

I think this is a bad idea myself,you've now made every third spoke at a different stage of tensioning from the rest. It's also possible you've made a lacing error. I would stick to a methodical technique like in mussons book. Also I would suggest measuring the rim erd and calculating spoke length yourself is a good idea

Sounds like you've laced it wrong fella and you should of used 258mm not just 260mm all round I'd strip it apart order the right spokes have a cup of tea then start again.

I agree with the others. If you're new to wheel building, stick with the instructions all the way until you've got a few builds under your belt. don't go making corrections as you;re probably wrong.

I've built three wheels using Roger Musson's guide and they've been good reliable builds just by following the instructions.

258 would have been better but 260 will be fine, you'll just need to make more adjustments when you get to the dishing process.

The 258mm spokes would make 4mm of thread show which means that only a small amount of thread would be engaged. I also found it difficult to even get the ones with the 2mm of thread showing on the inside started when nipping up with a flat head screw driver.

Wouldn't it be better to have the spoke sticking out of the nipple a little so all thread is engaged than to risk having it stop short and break at the nipple?

I'll have a good look at the lacing and maybe get some photos up later.

Thanks for the help, all a learning process for me.

Only normally found an issue if spokes are 3mm+ too long, &/or your nipples are too long for the threads.

Did you use a nipple driver to get them all to the same start point ?

I've ground up a couple of nipple drivers, each at 1mm difference.
If I know my spokes are not the exact length I can at least get them to a theoretical equal start point...if that makes any sense...

Threads only engage mechanically for about 6 turns - about half the length of a nipple - the rest is effectively redundant but its good practise that the spoke is flush with the top of the nipple.

Too long is better than too short and 1.6mm too long is fine. It does sound like a lacing error; maybe got the offset holes on the hub the wrong way round. As above I do all the spokes up the same then take it from them. Can you post a pic or two?

This happened to me during my last build and the wheel looked fine. After a close inspection I realised the lacing was off and re-did it. Didn't take long to do.

If the spokes are too long, protrude too far past the top of the nipples, you run the risk of the thread bottoming out. Ie the spokes will not tighten any more only twist. If every 3rd spoke seems like it was 'super loose' you have probably made a lacing error. As said best to measure the erd and calc the spoke length yourself. Tightening each nipple the same amount is key to even tension and a good base starting point.

Sounds similar to what happens when you accidentally lace 2x instead of 3x...so I'm told

Another vote for laced wrong.

Personally id have gone for 259s all round - they aint hard to get.

How ever 260 or 258 would work just fine.

Does sound like a lacing error. At worst you should be seeing every other spoke sticking out a different amount when all the nipples are screwed up to the point of covering the thread.

Looks like I sorted it.

When I laced the NDS I started with the wrong hole so it was pretty much loading up the DS too much causing the tensioning to be incorrect.

The instructions I used was to follow the spoke key down to the hub then go across the centre of the hub and that hole should be the first spoke on the NDS. As this fell between holes i picked the wrong one.

260mm all round looks to be all good too.

Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated!!!