No, not the best looking bike, or indeed the bike you bought last, but the main component, the [u]FRAME[/u].
Should it be Ti, steel, or alloy?
Should it be fillet brazed with Ritchy cowled dropouts?
Should the seat stays meet at the same level as the top tube?
Should the cable routing be over the toptube, under it, or to the side, maybe under the downtube?
Should it have an integrated head set, or a conventional one?
I think you get the picture by now, so show or describe your ideal please.
Cheers.
Dear God, seriously, its just a bike.
Klein Attitude, pre trek with MC2 headset/forks/stem. Gert lush...
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The Klein looks lush, in a retro kind of way.
GF's offering looks great, I think it would look better if the seatstays met the TT in the middle, but that may be just me.
Aluminium hardtail - Either a Klein or a Cannondale.
Steel hardtail - Early DeKerf's or my old Dialled Bikes Prince Albert (it looked good to me).
No full suspension frames look good. They are purely practical devices. Thats the rules, I don't make them. 😉
steel, brazed, ritchy dropouts, wishbone stays, some kind of trick reinforcement arround the chainstays/BB area. Integradted headset, looks so cool on BMX's.
geometry:
16.5" chainstays, clearance for 2.5" tires (2.3" + mud in english units), 17" seat tube, 23.5" Top Tube, 120mm head tube, 71deg seat angle, 69 head angle with 140mm forks.
no I've not been thinin about this fo a long time !
Cotic Simple but,
Drop the rear wishbone by 1/4" so it's inline with the top tube.
Add lugged joints which you can personally shape before the frame is built up.
thisisnotaspoon - Member
steel, brazed, ritchy dropouts, wishbone stays, some kind of trick reinforcement arround the chainstays/BB area. Integradted headset, looks so cool on BMX's.geometry:
16.5" chainstays, clearance for 2.5" tires (2.3" + mud in english units), 17" seat tube, 23.5" Top Tube, 120mm head tube, 71deg seat angle, 69 head angle with 140mm forks.no I've not been thinin about this fo a long time !
It seems you have been thinking about it for far to long, are you sure you don't want to reconsider the wishbone stays ? 😉
there's someone on here who use to post a pic of a fillet brazed robin mather in grey with orange decals. Was the most beautiful bike Ive seen.
Im also partial to the cheap carbon molded road frames from the far east. I think the flow and lines usually look just right.
Medium size Singular Swift does it for me.
(Going to take one for a test ride when the new batch of frames arrive in April!)
My stupid one geared bike is pretty - not finished building it up in this pic thou, so no need for sillyness. Got forks that go up and down on it now. It's amazing what they can do today! [img] http://www.flickr.com/photos/24924127@N04/3303470090/ [/img]
I've always fancied a nicolai myself. I like the industrial form follows function look. And the G box would be nice too.
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steel lugged track frame. everything else looks overcomplicated
The pic doesn't do it justice but its my current favoutite
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Currently, I rather like the IF road bikes (for steel) and Crumpton (for carbon).
Only Kleins seem to be the MTB frames that turn my head (and I own a Cotic).
To answer some of 2unfit2ride's questions:
Fillet brazed, with the welds nicely smoothed, steel, wrap-over seat stays, not too much slope on the top tube.
well, either wishbone or very curvy, like the sanderson's but slimmer.
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Watch this space, when my new ************ turns up 🙂
[url= http://www.corratec.com/content/en-gb/products/bikes/mtb/bow/?model=superbow_titan&offset=0px&x=75&y=60 ]Corratec Super Bow Titan[/url] or [url= 
]Retrotec Twin[/url]
Probably prefer the Retrotec with PMW sliders & huge clearances for proper clay / mud.
solid blade
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