I seem to have no end of trouble getting rim tape to stick into the well on my rims...
As soon as its applied it middle sort of "bubbles" up out of the well.
Still seems to seal an hold air, but as soon as I change a tyre it damages the tape and I need to re-do it.
I'm obviously an idiot, and there is an obvious thing I am doing wrong... any ideas...
using WTB frequency i23 rims, and with various different tapes my experience has been the same (stans, teasa, schwalbe) with the exception of duct tape, that is a bit messy when it comes to remove.
I use the stans yellow tape with no real issues (when the rim is new) but you do need to get it tight in order to ensure it doesn't rumple of become an issue later one (as you describe). With an older (dirty rim) i tend to use a layer of insulating tape which is stickier and more malleable and then put on the yellow tape (again tightly).
Mega clean and dry rims
Stretch the tape like hell as you're putting it on. Only apply 4-5 inches at once then press it well down
You'll usually get a "bubble" over the spoke hole anyway which turns into an indent
Don't know, I just stick it on under a bit of tension, in approximately 6" long sections making sure its straight and push it down into the well as I go along. A bit like putting velox rim tape on.
Taped up my first pair of wheels for tubeless last night (Alkpit Rumpus and Gorilla tape), just kept a slight tension on the tape as I was applying it and used my thumb to press down in to the well a few cm behind the contact point so that I can remove the bubbles before they form.
Since it was my first pair, feel free to ignore everything above.
Yes, just use Gorilla tape. You won't need to remove it anyway.
1" handy rolls fit i23s perfectly.
There's a few tricks.
First of all, clean the surface, then key it with a scotchbrite pad or similiar, then clean it properly, with alcohol or similar.
Fit the tape stretching it a <lot>, it should go straight on against the metal with as little misshaping or bubbling as at all possible. Then whack a tyre and tube on and run it up to pressure, to get it properly squished on.
If the tape's getting damaged when you remove a tyre, consider going narrower. Not everyone agrees with this but ime it works better.
If the tape goes to the edge so that the tyre sits on it, or worse if it doesn't quite reach the edge but is still on the high points, then it can be pushed aside when the tyre comes off- the tension of the tyre puts a lot of force and friction on it. But if it's only down in the "well" of the rim then when the tyre comes off, it'll barely touch it. So a narrower tape can be more effective.
I wouldn't use the cloth gorilla tape again as it goes manky, but apparently the clear doesn't do this- I might try that.
what I do is:
- put wheel in truing stand
- wet&dry the rim bed
- clean with isopropyl alcohol thoroughly
- warm the rim with a blowtorch (wheel spinning)
- apply tape, stretching it as you go, and pressing it down with clean rag/paper
- 3x round then trim off
- cut valve hole
- fit tyre and tube and inflate to high pressure
- leave, drink tea
- come back, fit tubeless valve with a dab of superglue
- set up tubeless
[I usually go with 3M crossweave tape, Superstar valves, and this has been fine for MTB and road tubeless]