So, after still not fixing the [url= http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/help-me-diagnose-this-creak-on-my-fs-trail-bike ]creak on my Carbine[/url], I think I might need to swap the bearings out. What's STW's recommended bearing puller / press?
I'm not massively keen on putting together my own "threaded bar" setup, but I've seen [url= http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bearing-Remover-for-Intense-Bike-Frame-Extractor-Puller-Blind-Tool-/132318296426?var=&hash=item1ecec8f96a:m:mMlpkNwNMvj2ISURDexJB7Q ]these things[/url] on eBay which look decent enough. I couldn't find anything on Goldtec's website, and Superstar don't have the sizes I need (6901, 7902, 6802). The RapidRacer tool looks nice but a bit on the expensive side!
So - what does the hive mind recommend for bearing removal / pressing on a FS rear end?
(If it makes any difference - I've got a decent Park headset press if there's any adapters or similar available??)
I've done Carbine bearings using my usual combination of:
[url= https://www.cyclestore.co.uk/giant_maestro_bearing_tool_kit-ID_68169 ]Giant Maestro bearing press kit[/url]
[url= http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131982076375 ]Blind bearing puller[/url]
+ various assorted specific homemade tools and the all important kettle of boiling water 🙂
As a note, in the end it was cheaper to replace the lower link in its entirety than to replace the bearings one at a time. :
https://brilliantbikes.co.uk/intense-spares/2202-lower-box-link-for-intense-carbon-bikes.html
(These bearings are specific angular contact ones with metal rather than rubber seals to allow the grease from the grease port to penetrate the bearings. IIRC, the bearings were > £10 each anyway, so it was a no-brainer)
Note: You don't need the blind-pulling tool if you're replacing the lower link, as you'll only need it to remove those particular bearings from the link block.
Easy enough bike to do and nice to work on. Virtually the same as working on SC plastic bikes which have the same linkage. (Intense license it from SC)
Oh and before I forget. Make sure you crack open the new bearings and get some decent, thick-as-you-can-get agricultural grease into them, particularly the upper-link ones that have no grease port. They'll last much longer if you do 🙂
Last bit of advice - don't do what the LBS that had this bike 6 months earlier did - just stick cheapy "standard" bearings in it, rather than the proper ones:
[img] 
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The top block is the original one, with the shitty bearings installed at great expense by the LBS. Note the rubber seals which prevented the grease port from actually lubricating them at all. The bottom block was the new replacement with the proper bearings, which are, unsurprisingly, still going strong.
I hate bike shops sometimes... 🙁
This bike doesn't creak at all 🙂
Following this with eyes on my intense spider.
Thanks for the input all! Especially this bit:
As a note, in the end it was cheaper to replace the lower link in its entirety than to replace the bearings one at a time
AARGH. I hate this level of waste, but it's probably the best option. I think the next thing is to pull the frame apart and see exactly which bearings are notched / not smooth, and see how little I can get away with 😀
After a quick scan on you other post have you actually swapped wheels, pedals cassette, etc with other items? (out of a mates bike etc)
it is a bit of work/time but you can really nail down what it is! (or rule out what it isn't)
Also I know you said you replaced the BB, was it a press fit?
even ones that bonded in still creak a little, be worth looking at a Hope or wheel mft type BB that screw together, they really work well!
AARGH. I hate this level of waste, but it's probably the best option. I think the next thing is to pull the frame apart and see exactly which bearings are notched / not smooth, and see how little I can get away with
It's a good thing to just rip it apart, clean and regrease anyway, even if you don't end up changing anything. If there's only a couple of bearings to do, you might want to just replace them on their own, but my experience is that once one starts to go, the rest are probably not far behind and worth swapping while you're at it.
When I get round to it, I might re-bearing the old link so it can sit in the toolbox as a spare, in case I need to do one at short notice. Might see if I can find a source for the bearings that are cheaper than from the OEM... 🙂
Also I know you said you replaced the BB, was it a press fit?
Yes, Carbine's are BB92 PF and they can creak if they aren't seated right. Mostly, a smear of grease and the proper pre-load is enough, but sometimes a bit of threadlock on the bearing housing has been known to work. You just regret it when they need to be replaced next time and they won't come out 🙂
I removed the old one with a screwdriver and hammer (ruined) and ****ted the new one in with a big wooden drift and hammer. as long as its seated properly, that's all that matters.
Saved me typing finephilly. Hammer and wood all the time.
The unior bearing press kit (1721) is fantastic. It is pricey, but is so satisfying to use. Perfectly presses bearings in of any size. The QA on the thread is very slick too.
