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[Closed] Undoing seized chainring bolts, any ideas?

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[#3388959]

Got some chainring bolts that just won't undo, any suggestions?


 
Posted : 24/11/2011 10:13 pm
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drill


 
Posted : 24/11/2011 10:14 pm
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Try pouring boiling water over it and trying again. The heat should shock the metal some.


 
Posted : 24/11/2011 10:16 pm
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I have a similar problem.

anyone know who does the chainring bolts that have a allen key hole in each side. they seem a much better idea


 
Posted : 24/11/2011 10:31 pm
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Podge - Truvativ


 
Posted : 24/11/2011 10:33 pm
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Cheers jock,

Cruzheckler bit drastic that!


 
Posted : 24/11/2011 11:44 pm
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You are using a chainring bolt tool arnt you ?


 
Posted : 25/11/2011 12:45 am
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I had vaguely imagined that chainring bolt tools would make my life (and changing chainrings) utterly joyful. Imagine my dismay (when I finally bought one), to find that it's still a right pain and even with the correct tools it's eminently possible to remove the skin from one's knuckles.


 
Posted : 25/11/2011 12:48 am
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Stick an allen head attachment in a drill and try to buzz it out, this can sometimes work.

If not plusgas and try the same.

If not replace allen head with drill bit and beast it out


 
Posted : 25/11/2011 1:15 am
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Stick an allen head attachment in a drill and try to buzz it out, this can sometimes work.

If not plusgas and try the same.

If not replace allen head with drill bit and beast it out

yes ,maybe it don't need the complicated methods ,good luck ! ๐Ÿ™‚
[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 25/11/2011 5:21 am
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If its seized then its probably corroded to a degree.
Drill....+1


 
Posted : 25/11/2011 6:23 am
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Support well from behind and hit with a hammer. That will shock them and break the bonds.


 
Posted : 25/11/2011 7:12 am
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If the drive slot on the back part has worn away in the anti-clockwise direction then try tightening them first to break the bond...
Drilling might be difficult if they are just spinning in the cranks. Put the hex key in a vice, slot the crank onto it, then a hammer & punch on the grooves in the back part of the bolt should get it started. Might need a third hand to hold the crank steady.


 
Posted : 25/11/2011 8:32 am
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pee on it first


 
Posted : 25/11/2011 8:49 am
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and when you put stuff back in give all the surfaces a light coat of coppaslip or equiv


 
Posted : 25/11/2011 10:51 am
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try the least damaging ideas first, that way its harder to end up in a worse state

boiling water,
wd40,
extend the leverage of the allen key using a piece of narrow diameter pipe,
etc,

If its still on the bike put the chain on the outer ring so you don't stab yourself badly on it if you slip


 
Posted : 25/11/2011 2:50 pm
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Are you using one of these - I presume they are not double hex/torx?

[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 25/11/2011 2:53 pm
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they're soft aluminium so very, very easy to drill out. Should only take a couple of minutes.

Try not to drill a hole in your frame though.


 
Posted : 25/11/2011 3:01 pm
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Fenwicks Degreaser, a wire brush, GT85 and a lot of swearing

will probably do the trick


 
Posted : 25/11/2011 3:03 pm
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A wire brush??


 
Posted : 25/11/2011 5:14 pm
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[i]Fenwicks Degreaser, a wire brush, GT85 and a lot of swearing[/i]

that's for hemorrhoids, not chain ring bolts.


 
Posted : 25/11/2011 5:18 pm
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Gary_M - Member

they're soft aluminium so very, very easy to drill out. Should only take a couple of minutes.


Aluminium chainring bolts? Unlikely unless they're aftermarket ones. Usually made of chocolate anyway so never on there long enough to seize!


 
Posted : 25/11/2011 5:54 pm
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Cheers all, using the correct tools but as said above, they don't help much. Takisawa, the hammer and punch sounds worth a try


 
Posted : 25/11/2011 9:10 pm
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D-R-I-L-L


 
Posted : 25/11/2011 9:25 pm
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Haha Gary, trying to avoid that!


 
Posted : 26/11/2011 8:46 am