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The tubeless set up was fine for about 6 month after dead easy set up. Pacenti SL25 with Schwalbe S ones.
A couple of weeks ago I checked pressures (normally about once every 3 months and just a couple of psi lost) and decided to push pressure up from 70 to 80, the max for the tyre. Just for a bit less resistance and an experiment.
Next day tyre was down to about 40psi. I suspect that the slight pressure increase had been too much for the valve/rim interface. MYBE?
Tyre would hold pressure for about a day then gradually drop and stick at about 40psi. Can't seem to fix this. Fluid was still very liquid but I have added a bit more but still no joy. Changed valve although the rubber bit looked as new. Rim tape looks as new. Valve gently bubbling around lock nut now after re-fit.
Do people just let them sit and sort them selves out? As it went on perfectly first time I have no idea about less than perfect installations.
I'd suspect that air's getting into the spoke bed somewhere and finding it's way out past the valve.
take off the old tape then retape and refit valve.
I've ended up with rims with quite a lot of sealant in them after a similar experience of constant pressure loss.
Yeah, likely. Just wondering after 6 months perfect performance.
glue on tape slightly aged, additional pressure?
re-tape and start again or it'll drive you mad
(I also doubt it's the valve itself, but I put a bit of mastic sealant under mine these days; tighten it gently, wait to go off and then nip up)
i'm feeling your pain with a leaky one myself. I'm going to re-tape it fully tonight
glue on tape slightly aged,
Glue is not part of the seal; in a correct tubeless setup (tape wide enough to be seamless), the sealing interface is tape - bead.
I've got 4 bikes with tubeless wheels - only one has tape from bead to bead, none leak (last one that did was damaged tape near a spoke hole).
How you you making sure you get enough fluid on the valve? The usual technique focuses on the tyre more, so some form of local application might help
ecided to push pressure up from 70 to 80, the max for the tyre. Just for a bit less resistance and an experiment.
Could've saved yourself the pain. Current research is saying lower pressures are faster on road 😉
Lower yes but for most 80 is low. That can't be taken too far though. Try it. The bike definitely rolls better at 80 than 70. About a yard further! Waste of time but it did remove a slight sponginess so did nothing but felt better.
I foresee a retape this afternoon in the sun. With a beer and an ice-cream.
I've had success with making a small , rubber gasket from an old inner tube on mtb tubeless set up (which assumes the leak is from the valve, not elsewhere).
my Hunts are a bit of a pain like this
over a year old, front needed retaping, fine since
rear perfect for over a year, left it indoors at work, suspect someone let it down, would it reinflate? would it arse, had to pump it up 5 times in 45km, leaking from the valve, change valve, still leaking, retape, leaked down to about 40psi, reinflated and now holding - I'm assuming the extra fluid has plug a gap somewhere in the valve area
shonky at best
Didn't bother messing. Tyre off, replaced Gorilla tape with 2 layers of Tesa tape. Tyre on with no lever and up to 70 psivwith track pump. Let it sit all afternoon then added fluid. 2 hours later all tight. No idea what was problem but fixing was quick.
Mine seems to be holding. It wasn't the valve after all.
I had a leak around the valve hole recently (ooo err). Ended using wider rim tape and making sure the lock nut is done up super tight, i.e. with pliers rather than finger tight, and that resolved it.
Minor high jack but if you have a lock nut nipped up with pliers and get an unsealable puncture how do you get the valve stem out to put a regular tube in? Assuming most won't put pliers in their pockets?
I'll cross that bridge if and when I come to it, though I do have a set of fold out pliers in my pack most rides.
Another unvalidated tip for retaping fans (not sure that it really does anything, but...)
I always stick a tube in and pump right up for an hour or so, just to make sure the tape's been well pressed down
mikeyp - Member
Minor high jack but if you have a lock nut nipped up with pliers and get an unsealable puncture how do you get the valve stem out to put a regular tube in? Assuming most won't put pliers in their pockets?
Two plastic tyre levers, one each side of the nut and squeeze the ends together and turn.
Before I retaped I dogged the nut up a bit more. Made things worse. I have another wheel that must have a nick in the valve hole that will not seal unless I use a split inner tube. A slow leak got worse with too much tightening.