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Morning, just swtichted to tubes on stans crests rims with Rocket Rons. They seemed to have worked fine, but just checked and over about a day or so the rear one has gone down. I suspect this is due to me using my exisiting tyres when swapping over rather than new ones. (initially there were a shed load of holes, I could see the runk coming out!)
Plan is to inflate it again then find out where its leaking from. Question is if I then do this and seal the hole on the tyre using a puncture repair kit on the inside will I need to put fresh sealant in? Also how messy is it likey to be taking the tyre off!?
Cheers
Can take a few inflations and rides before it totally seals. When inflated spin/ turn wheel in every direction,also check valve is tight.
Will do! Any ideas if its worth putting some more gunk in as well?
I had that problem with a set of DT tubeless wheels I hadn't used much. Pumped it up, did the washing up water trick to see if I could find any leaks, stuck some more gunk in there and made sure the value was tight. Sorted.
riding it for 30 mins helps loads esp off road as long as it doesn't go down too fast 🙂
I should probably have pointed out that I've been for two rides on them already, one for around 3 hours the other a bit shorter and they were fine, seems to be going down very slowly! I'll check the valve and also try to figure out where its coming from, sure a bit more gunk can't hurt!
There are a number of different systems and combinations for going tubeless; similarly there are two 'mechanisms' for keeping the tyre inflated. First the bead needs to lock into the side of the rim and provide an air tight seal, second the tyre carcass itself needs to be air tight.
UST tyres have a butyl coating that makes them air tight and a special bead to lock into the side wall.
Tubeless ready tyres have the bead/rim interface but aren't 100% air tight.
I'm reasonably sure this is how it works, but I could be wrong.
The only system you can reliably use without any kind of sealant is UST tyres (as opposed to 'tubeless ready' tyres) and UST rims.
Crest rims are not UST, so even if you use UST tyres on them (not sure if your Rocket Rons are UST?) you may find you need some latex sealant to help keep the tyre inflated.
Tubeless Ready tyres will seal at the rim edge, i.e. the bead is designed to work with UST rims or the Stans system, but they aren't 100% air tight.
Finally on the Stans system, you can use any tyre you want in theory (some work better than others) but you'll definitely need sealant. Even then, as you've found, the tyre will likely go down slowly over time for the first few days until the sealant has found its way into all the small leaks at the bead/rim interface.
Ahh OK - I'd just make sure you have plenty of milk in there for starters and do the stans demo wheel wiggle with plenty of soap for about 10 mins - i.e. leave to settle but if you can't see a leak in the tyre but it maybe you valve seating? pop it in a tray of water over the valve like you would a tube and see if you get any bubbles?
The only system you can reliably use without any kind of sealant is UST tyres (as opposed to 'tubeless ready' tyres) and UST rims.Crest rims are not UST, so even if you use UST tyres on them (not sure if your Rocket Rons are UST?) you may find you need some latex sealant to help keep the tyre inflated.
The ust manufacturers may claim that, but stans rims are just as reliable as the ust system for sealing without fluid.
Cheers for your help all, I'll try to figure out where its coming from first then tighten the valve/ add some more milk depending on where it is coming from. Guess if its coming from around the tyrebead/ rim, its not seated rpobperly so will have a go at re-doing this!
The ust manufacturers may claim that, but stans rims are just as reliable as the ust system for sealing without fluid.
That hasn't generally been my experience, but at the same time, my experience of the Stans system is that it works just as well as UST. Getting them inflated can be more of a faff, but once they're up they are just as good.
Actually in some ways it can be easier because the tyres aren't as much of a fanny to get on and off the rim.
Have you seen these video instructions on setting a tyre? [url= http://www.notubes.com/help_center.aspx ]Clicky[/url]
I had the same problem as the OP when I used an older tyre. With the sealant already in the tyre I filled the batch and rolled the wheel up and down it to find where the air was coming from. Then simply tilted the wheel so the sealant was where the air was coming from. I did have to do this a couple of times over 2 days but eventually it sealed and stayed up.
With the Stans I found I had to use pliers to tighten the valve (ie the ring that fits round it not the value end) and overflate the tyre until it fully 'popped' into the bead seal, dropped the pressure back down as soon as that happened. Not sure if either of these are great ideas but it was what worked.