Cable operated disc brakes.
Just looking at changing the original pads as they are coming to the end of their adjustments.
These are the original TRP pads, and have a red backing.
I'm satisfied with the performance and wear rate of these so would like to replace with identical parts.
Where do I find original TRP parts?
Have done a search for pads, but come up with lots of other types, Resin Pads, Performance Resin Pads, Semi-Metallic Pads, Sintered Metallic Pads none being OE TRP parts - Shimano, EBC, Kool Stop, Swiss Stop etc, etc.
Any recommendations just for everyday use, not downhill, or exceptional use.
the shape is shimano B01S, £6 a pair for resin on ebay. i got some cheap chinese ones for a quid each , they worked ok, altohugh for £6 delivered I'd stick to shimano.
I've been using Shimano B01 Resin for years. Cheap, reliable, doesn't squeal.
They are on my Cannondale CAADX commuter bike, and I have done about 6200 kilometers on that bike. I haven't even had to adjust for wear very often.
Original TRP parts from Upgrade bikes. They're a distributor, but also sell straight to consumer.
However. I've always found Shimano pads to work best. The Spyres use the generic B01 pad as mentioned above. The TRP ones for me were louder and less good at stopping.
Basically every brake pad manufacturer make pads in that shape so give some other compounds a try.
I never had much luck with the stock pads so switched to semi-sintered and that seem to improve things. ymmv
I've never had much luck with those brakes, ever since I got them. I have them on winter bike, I get them set up and they seem OK, about 3 rides later they just to struggle to stop. They don't give any confidence if I had to do an emergency stop.
Tried different pads, cleaning the rotors, compression-less cables. Still can't get them to work well for any length of time.
@sbtouring, just checking, you are running drop bars aren't you? spyres are road brakes. v-brake levers have a different pull ratio
@nbt yes I am. Its the only set of disc brakes I have used on a road bike and from my experience I feel much safer with rim brakes even in the wet. I assume road hydraulic brakes are much better, but these are truly terrible in my experience
Hmmm, odd. Ihave spyres on the tandem and have not had any issues with them at all. Road hydros are better, true, but the spyres are fine and have no problems stopping us even when we're really shifting
One time I didn't like spyres was on the CX - the brakes were mounted on the chainstay rather than the seatstay, so water full of grit would trickle down the inner cable and clog up the outer, making it awful to brake. I ended up putting a Hope v-twin on there which was WAY better.
Well that is interesting. From my experience I struggle to stop myself so certainly wouldn't like to stop a tandem with my set. But if they are good enough for you and your tandem then I must be doing something wrong. Will need to go back and see what I can do to improve them.
I have them on winter bike ...
...Will need to go back and see what I can do to improve them.
I have them on my Diverge:
Within a few months, they had become very poor. It turns out that the little ball bearings that run up the ramps inside them had gone rusty. (There's no seal of any sort, and very little grease). They were OK after rebuilding with new balls (2.95mm on mine) and with plenty of waterproof grease, have held the weather out since.
Handy rebuild guide:
https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/psa-trp-spyre-rebuild-guide/
I've found that they are very sensitive to adjustment - pads need to be adjusted very close to the disc, and all the slack needs to be taken out of the cable so that the arm on the caliper is held off its stop slightly.
There's also two ways of routing the cable, the one that looks right is wrong - easier to have a look at the pictures in this thread than try and explain (some adjustment tips there too):
https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/trp-spyre-discbrakes-poor-performance/
I wore out the original front disc and ended up putting bigger discs on - 180mm front / 160mm rear (as I had them knocking around). It stops OK 🙂
Yes, I've got a spyre caliper that I can't use as the bearing rusted and it's got stuck slightly ouy of position so I can't even disassemble it (this is one that was on the CX that suffered).
They're standard fitting on Orbit tandems, as they're normally so reliable
Shimano pads ordered. Thanks.
Will probably strip the calipers and grease up the bearngs.
Thanks for the tips on that.
I've got a set of Spyres I've just taken off a bike, feel free to make me an offer.
Just to breathe some life back into this thread.
When I looked closeley at the caliper assembly, I discovered that the clip at the inner end of the retaining pin was missing at the rear.
Went to my 'go-to' supplier of bits and pieces. SJS. The clip was listed as only available with the pin.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/trp-brake-pad-retaining-pin-for-spyre-calipers-285-mm/
OK, £4.49 plus post not the end of the world.
Searched around the workshop, 'What have I got that would do the job?
Discovered R clips, but from motorcycles so too big.
Did a bit of internet digging and found that model R/C cars use R clips to hold the body shell on.
Straight to e bay, and a listing for 12mm long clips was just what I needed. £2.75 for 10.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251707420632?hash=item3a9aee6fd8:g:H4AAAOSwyTZUW5Cq
Original clip in silver, new R clip in red.
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Chose red to make the clip more obvious.
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Tighter fit than the original. Should not loose these.
I've got them on my HT MTB. Got them originally when I'd converted it to drop bar MTB/monster cross.
I didn't know they aren't meant to work with MTB levers instead of brifters. They do work though, no where near as good as the hydros on my gravel bike, but I'm a heavy guy.
Can you get MTB levers that will work with them, or an adapter if the pull ratio needs increasing?