We had seen a couple of YouTubers had ridden the John Muir Way and it looked interesting but they always seem focused on getting it "done". That's not our style, we like a nice ride with a good look around at the scenery and POI's, especially when it's an unfamiliar area. So we opted for occasional day rides and a segmented journey along this wonderful walking route (oh, and we ignored the "bike friendly" diversions - that's not our style either).
Helensburgh to Balloch (and a little more)
Our first leg and it was mid-summer and glorious. We parked at the hideous Lomond Shores complex and headed west following the Three Lochs Way route over to Helensburgh. Lovely trails and great views of mountain, loch and sea on this blue-sky day.
At Helensburgh we picked up the John Muir Way proper and followed that up past The Hill House then along a footpath adjacent to the A818 before breaking off up into the hills and woods. We were lucky, the JMW had been cleared down off Gouk Hill but it was about to be closed in 2 days time for forestry work. The steep cleared path made for a tricky decent
Glorious blast all the way down off the hills into Balloch but we were not quite done. We wiggled our way through the tourist throng before back roads over to Caldervan Station then back to the van.
Having seen the route follows really good pathways we decided to park this adventure until the winter and go ride other trails that were better attempted in summer conditions (eg. the Cross Borders Drove Road and the Rhinn's of Galloway Coastal Path).
Caldervan Station to Mugdock
With the return of winter it was time to get back on this adventure. We parked up at Mugdock Park and headed out on the West Highland Way.
Good, easy riding to Killearn then turned left, a bit of B834 before hitting the old drove road from Finnich Toll over to Wester Cameron. Picked up the JMW and followed a great singletrack route past Burncrooks Reservoir and then on back to Mugdock through the interesting "huts" at Carbeth Hill.
Mugdock to Twechar
Once again, parked the van at Mugdock before dropping on to the JMW and headed east this time.
This was to be a simple out and back that took us through Strathblane, where we picked up the disused Blane Valley railway line to take us swiftly on through Lennoxtown, Milton of Campsie and Kirkintilloch, transferring onto the banks of the Forth and Clyde Union canal to Twechar. On the return, we went for an explore around the old abandoned and storied Lennox Castle (asylum).
Twechar to Falkirk
Started at the marina at Auchinstarry and did a loop down to Twechar for completeness and then up and over Croy Hill and our first look at the imposing Antonine Wall (course of).
Back on the canal towpaths to Bonnybridge before we could climb again for even more impressive antiquities at Rough Castle, followed by the rather impressive sight of the Falkirk Wheel revealing itself through the woodland. On the Union canal before dropping down into Callendar Wood, Park and House.
We headed back out the south side of Callendar Wood climbing onto the canal so we could ride through the amazing Falkirk Canal Tunnel and the Roughcastle Tunnel. And then towpath bashing back to the van.
Falkirk to Blackness
Not our most picturesque starting point - Tesco car park opposite the HMYOI Polmont but off we set along the canal once again.
Crossing the stunning Avon Aqueduct, our route dropped down through wooded singletrack and sneaked past Linlithgow before climbing away on tracks then down into the eery looking Kinneil Woods.
Crossing the Bo'ness railway we were now on the Firth of Forth coast, although it was hard to tell from the mirky but atmospheric conditions.
Undeterred, we followed the coastline through Bo'ness, Grangepans, Bridgeness all the way to Blackness Castle - our furthest point for todays ride. Instead of reversing the route, we headed south on back roads and hopped back on the canal for an easy flat pedal taking us back via Linlithgow to the waiting Tescos at Falkirk.
Blackness to Corstorphine Hill
Found a spot for the van at the tiny Blackness port before heading east along the firth once again and through the rather grand park lands (and deer herd) of Hopetoun House where the local gentlefolk were queued for a Christmas market. Crept through the streets of South Queensferry and my first look at the new bridge.
Followed the quiet NCR76 to Dalmeny House before dodging off the cycle route and onto coastal singletrack past Eagle Rock. NCR1 brought us into the fringes of Edinburgh, past the impressive hedge of J.K Rowlings house from where we eventually headed up to todays turning point on top of Corstorphine Hill.
Corstorphine Hill to Musselburgh
Time for some urban riding, parking the van at Saughton Park we followed the John Muir Way back to Corstorphine Hill to complete that leg before back to the van and now off across Edinburgh. Cool views and singletrack coming down past the zoo.
The route meandered along the Water of Leith before a stiff set of steps brought us on to the Union canal at the Slateford aqueduct.
The canal then took us deep into the city with urban streets dropping us at the Innocent Railway tunnel entrance below Arthurs Seat. The old railway bed whisked us past Niddrie and on to the harbour at Musselburgh for todays end point and coffee stop.
A simple about turn and reversed the route all the way back to Saughton Park and the van.
Musselburgh to Aberlady
Early start had us departing Musselburgh harbour and heading off around the Levenhall Links as the sun was rising.
Coastal paths brought us into Prestonpans and on to the streets for a while before a looping around the old power station.
The JWM then had us hugging streets and paths through Cockenzie and Port Seton before we could burst back on to glorious beach side singletrack around Seton Sands and Gosford Sands all the way to Aberlady.
The return was very much a repeat in reverse but what a day for it.
Aberlady to East Linton
For our penultimate leg we started at a frozen (-10 windchill) East Linton railway station for a loop that first took us across minor roads and farm tracks towards Aberlady where we, once again, picked up the JMW and headed through the golf heaven (?) of Gullane. Dirleton saw the trail head back to the coast as we then passed more expensive looking golf pitches and grand houses on our way into North Berwick.
The JMW now heads back inland (unsure why) and under the imposing volcanic lump of "the Law". Not ones to miss an opportunity, we pushed the bikes up for a glorious but short-lived icy and techy descent.
Some great advocacy work by someone had us following well made trails across farmland and woods all the way back to East Linton and a still frozen van.
East Linton to Dunbar
We stayed overnight in Dunbar so created a loop for the final stage right from the hotel doorstep. Easy ride out of Dunbar heading west on the NCR76 to East Linton (chilly -8 headwind all the way). Then back on our old friend the John Muir Way for the final push. There is an alternate "bike friendly" diversion here but that's not for us, we don't mind a style or two. So, out of East Linton, past the interesting Preston Mill and along the banks of the Tyne (no, not that one).
The old Ware Road took us through fields of carrots and sprouts to the estuary and into the John Muir Country Park before re-entering Dunbar via the Winterfield Golf pitch and The Glebe. Finishing at the the John Muir birth place (and museum).
What a great route - very different to most of the wilder trails we have followed across Scotland in recent years but fascinating to sneak through towns and cities without (on the most part) touching roads and traffic. The official trail is 216Km but our loops and out-n-backs turned it into a 420Km multi-day adventure. Loved it!
Cheers
Vincent and Jill
Nice write up.
I've not ridden the length of it myself, although I just about live on it (and the course of the Antonine Wall) so every gravel ride from the house involves a little bit of JMW. Looks to be an interesting mix of terrain and a much more interesting way across the country than simply following the F&C and Union canal towpaths.
Excellent write up and some lovely photos, thanks for taking the time to post. Not really thought about doing the jmw but you've planted a seed...
Looks fabulous. Amazing composition on some of those pictures. Love the autumn tunnel one
Great write up and photos - thanks!
Cheers for that, great write up and pics
Absolutely lovely thread, seen a couple of YT clips on this route and having done the bit from Blackness to Edinburgh i'd love to do the whole route. Probably east to west and finish in my old stomping ground in Helensburgh
Thanks for posting, love the effort you put into your threads and photos. Full of inspiration. Familiar with some bits of the route but in the Lothians but looks well worth a further explore.
Great photos/ memories. What camera did you use?
Thank you for this. Looks amazing!
This is a great thread! I'd love to do something like this, and as others have said - the seed is now well and truly planted - thanks for posting!
This is on my to-do list, probably in a single day (I like to get stuff done!) so thanks for writing it up. The photos are really excellent!
Great photos/ memories. What camera did you use?
Until recently it was a dinky little Olympus Pen-F (loved the M43 size) but that died - so decided to try full frame but keep it smallish package - now a Sony A7CR with a 24-50 lens. I am quite liking it especially the ability to crop in quite severely but keep resolution. The Pen-F was lovely though.