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I'd like to try lowering the IFP chamber pressure on my (07) Talas 32's to improve the mid-stroke performance. I know folk have used football inflating needles to re-charge their forks but I'd be happier being able to screw in something. Does anyone know what thread form is used so I can get something turned up? Cheers in advance.
0.302" OD, 32 TPI. Assume UN form (60 deg)
B&B - thanks for the response, but that's a schrader valve thread; I'm after the thread form of the little threaded portion of the IFP tool that screws into the fork top. There's a small grubscrew covering the opening, so if push comes to shove I'll strip it & measure that to find out. Cheers anyway.
Turns out it's a #8-32 UNC thread. Made a bodged IFP tool with a football needle and a bored-out grubscrew and schrader valve. Tried it with less air in, but found that letting all of the pressure out of the IFP chamber makes the fork behave the best (IMO). There's no knocking on initial depression either. Talas function is unaffected, just had to add a little more air to the air spring to bring the pressure back up (as the chamber volume's increased).
Chives, if you are able to make those things, you could be onto a winner. They're very expensive to buy (if you can actually find one!).
I'd certainly buy one!
Kevin, I made one - but the football needle was a) only just long enough to reach into the top of the fork leg, and b) too flimsy, as I twisted it to pieces in the end, (leaving a few frantic minutes of swearing and fiddling with needle nosed pliers to extract the stubby end from the fork leg!). Getting one turned up on a lathe would be the better solution, though far more costly.
As I found by trial/error that the best 'feel' was with no pressure in the IFP chamber, I could have just let the pressure out using a fine allen key (there's what feels like a ball bearing with a spring behind it making the seal - depress it and the air comes out) and not gone to the trouble of bodging a tool up. Stick a rag over the top to avoid oil spray.
Re-indexing the talas system is a bit of a chore, I wish I'd made something to centre the sprung inner piece - it'd be so easy to bend/break the little driving pins without care. Glad I bothered though, the fork feels much better for it. It's a Talas 2 by the way.
If I get a minute later I#ll dig a picture out.