Swingarm Pivot Remo...
 

[Closed] Swingarm Pivot Removal - Help Please

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Hi SingleTrackers,
I recently acquired an Iron Horse Maverick 2.0 XC bike for next to nothing and want to replace the bearings, and having removed everything else I'm a bit stumped with the pivot point. Having removed the allen key bolt on one side the other one does not seem to want to move. Is it part of the pivot shaft that has to be drifted out from one side through the centre of the bearings or is it a separate bolt which should come off too? If someone with experience of these bikes could give a little help it would be appreciated, I don't want to damage it as parts for these bikes seem to be difficult to get hold of as iron horse have gone under (haven't they?)and its a bit of an older bike (2007). So could anyone recommend a good resource for parts too? Im getting a bearing kit from enduroforkseals.com which will fit, but I'd like to get hold of a new rear derailleur hanger if I could as Ive heard its a bit of a flaw with the bike. Any recommendations would be a great help- thanks guys ๐Ÿ˜‰ [img] ?oh=0b5efd1cb3b09841ed7ce57c53f61119&oe=56593E11[/img]


 
Posted : 13/07/2015 10:46 pm
Posts: 6620
Full Member
 

Looking at it the pivot shaft needs knocking through from the side you have pictured.

Easiest way first is to pour loads of boiling water or try and get the bearing area into a pan of boiling water to help expand the aluminium. Then poke a long drift into the hole where you removed the bolt. Hold/support everything and give the drift a few taps (wear safety glasses when using hammer&drifts).
Don't get carried away as you are relying on the pivot shaft threads/remaining bolt which isn't best practice.

Option2 If the pivot shaft is steel then use a BRASS or ALUMINUM drift (ie softer than the pivot material) on the exposed pivot shaft face where you removed the bolt and give it a good whack (coupled with the boiling water trick)

If that fails then you need to screw a disposable & longer bolt back in the removed side but with a spacer underneath it that has a slightly smaller diameter than the bearing ID. The idea being that the blows/loads are taken on the newly installed bolt and the end face of the pivot shaft rather than any threads. Use a larger steel drift and hammer away.

Final option is the bolt and spacer as above to apply end face load but with the frame squarely supported in a press (or vice) making sure there is enough 'room' for the remaining bolt/pivot shaft to press out into.

Once pivot shaft is out then its suitable drift of choice or slide hammer and tap the remaining bearing out from inside / to outside of the frame.

Once removed, grip centre of pivot shaft in a vice WITH SOFT JAWS and remove remaining bearing retaining bolt. Support underside of the bearing and push pivot shaft through using methods #2 onwards.

Man fail if not removed in less than 10minutes.

Can you tell I'm jet lagged and unable to sleep?


 
Posted : 14/07/2015 9:18 pm
Posts: 0
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Topic starter
 

You, sir, are a legend! I failed the man challenge, it took 11 mins with the boiling water/ disposable bolt and spacer method. Drat ๐Ÿ˜‰ many many thanks!


 
Posted : 14/07/2015 9:58 pm