Forum menu
So, the fork on my much-loved steel 29er is coming to the end of its life after nearly 10 years, and 100mm 29er forks seem a little hard to come by. Assuming I can't, is fiery death likely to ensue with 110mm given the frame is rated for 100mm?
Would I just run it with a bit more sag? Thanks all!
It'll be absolutely fine.
Thanks, is it worth running a bit more sag or is that a terrible/pointless idea?
You really don't need to mate, plenty of frames are rated to 10mm either side by the manufacturer.
https://www.merlincycles.com/fox-32-rhythm-float-grip-boost-mtb-forks-29-280579.html
£250 for 100mm Fox 32's from Merlin. Yeah they're only the rhythm ones but they're still good forks. I've got a set on my Cascade and they're great. I've had 34 rhythms before as well and they were good.
If you wheel isn't boost, just get one of the cheapo converter kits off eBay. I'm making the assumption the wheel isn't qr??
Hope Pro 2 Evo 100mm so it’ll be whatever it needs to be within reason. Ironically I’d been holding off as I didn’t want to have to get a new wheel as well, not knowing the MRP conversion kits existed 🤦♂️
SIDs are 100mm.
Don't just run 10mm more sag on a longer fork. It'll feel too soft.
Wait, do you mean 100mm of travel or 100mm hub spacing?
It'll be absolutely fine and I wouldn't give it a second thought. Just set up the fork as normal and go and ride it!
SIDs are 100mm.
Don't just run 10mm more sag on a longer fork. It'll feel too soft.
Wait, do you mean 100mm of travel or 100mm hub spacing?
Travel. But current ancient Reba is also 100x15.
Oh yes, will adding volume spacers or something not help with the fork feeling too soft?
Hope make an end cap that will fit the right hand side of a pro 2 Evo. Slight redish and your wheel will be boost.
@nixie The MRP one is even better as you don’t need to re-dish the wheel (spacers on both sides plus the disc)
Yes and no. The hope one is arguably better as the disc does not need to be spaced and doesn't need longer bolts. Also cheaper but for absolute ease yes the MRP is good.
If you have the spoke length to redish and use the hope spacer it’s probably better as you get better spoke balance (and no brake spacer needed). Also if the fork is torque capped i *think* you’d need the hope one (not a deal breaker though).
I’ve done both and they’re both fine though. I’d make the choice on whether you want ‘one and done’ or the ability to convert back.
(Anecdotally the dished wheel i built on a boosted hope hub was one of the easiest i’ve ever built and has required no work despite being on a crest mk3 that looks like it should bend if you look at it funny.)
I doubt you’ll even notice any difference after half an hour