I'm looking to get some very strong wheels to fit on my mtb/tourer bicycle. Strengthwise, I am thinking of Rigida Sputnik rims with 36 spokes handmade at a good builder. However, the rims are 630 grams alone. How much would this affect my riding compared to a normal, lighter rim? Are there other very strong alternatives?
I am also thinking of putting a lighter rim in the front end of my hardtail as this takes less beating. Will a light wheel and a heavy wheel work? How will this affect handling?
80% of the strength of a wheel is in the build.
lightweight wheels, built properly, will last much longer than heavy wheels built shodilly/by a machine
Mavic XC717 on pro2s here, and they take a hammering, but never had a problem. (have very occasionally dinged the very ede of the rim, but that can be corrected/bent back with an adjustable spanner)
That's good to know. I have machinebuilts now, so it should be an improvement either way. To come back to the sputniks. How much more difficult is it to climb with a rim of 630 gram (contrasting with the 300/400 grams rims I now have)? Is that massively noticeable? It does seem only 500 grams in total.
What tyres do you use?
Ian
Continental Mountain Kings
Agree on the build. Harry Rowland every time. He'll also advise on the rim choice.
Yes there is a massive differece, I have 729s on one bike which are about 600-700g each the 819s on another which are about 460, the difference is quite noticable. however a 819 built well shohuld be strong enough, I have not bent one and I weigh in excess of 164kg
Good to know. What are reputable builders in Leeds. Stif just moved out, but do any of you know about the quality of Woodrup and/or Bob Jackson and/or others?
I know he isn't in Leeds (he is down in Kent I think), but Harry's postage rates are dirt cheap and you won't regret it.
MTB tourer? so presumably you're just carrying heavy loads and don't even really need them to be very rock/ding resistant, can't believe I'm recomending them, but DT5.1s should fit the bill nicely (about 120-130g lighter but still a decent width). learn how to fit/remove tyres properly tho - some tyres can 'seem' quite tight on 5.1s but still removable without tools if you know how 😉
or wee bit heavier than 5.1s but far stronger in every way = 721s or singletracks
I often run a lighter front rim on a few of my bikes, as for handling it's good to choose a front rim with as wide a profile as the rear(depending on tyre choice and preferred tyre profile)
Sputniks, are by repute, not an easy rim to build I've heard, not straight, and not well made. No experience of this myself, just what I've heard.
I'd go for a touring rim, if that's what you want to do.
If you're in Leeds and want to deal with someone in person Spa Cycles in Harrogate will do you a decent set of wheels on Sputniks. Just get the train up.
OP - is what you are using just now not strong enough?
I'd always use Mavic personally. A heavier wheel on the back won't affect handling, though you will notice the weight when accelerating etc.
Olly - Member
80% of the strength of a wheel is in the build.lightweight wheels, built properly, will last much longer than heavy wheels built shodilly/by a machine
heavyweight wheels, well built, will last way longer too 😀
ive been using mavic xm719 on hope hubs for a good 6 years. Thousands of miles still run straight and true and im neither light or gentle.
Were built by my lbs who obviously did a cracking job.
Thanks for all the advice so far! I'm currently running cheapies with 28 spokes, which does not feel very secure at all.
Interestingly, people have actually dissuaded me from Mavics as they might rip/crack under heavier loads over longer times (strong yes - durable no). E.g. read on crazyguyonabike where there are several people with these issues. Nevertheless, the 721s should be ok, although they are nearly as heavy as the Sputniks. Thanks for the advices on the builders, will contact them. Any other advices in the Leeds area?
How much do you weigh, and what are you looking to do with the bike? Unless you intend to do interstellar mileage, or are vast, then any of the decent XC rims will probably be OK, (thinking 717, 4.1 Stans355 etc etc) I wouldn't necessarily insist on a 36 spoked build, 4 extra spokes nowadays doesn't make a huge difference to the strength (although obviously it will be stronger, just not massively)
Been well impressed by my Mavic 521's. Have had some serious water bar bangs and have not even gone out of true let alone being bent. Good compromise between weight, strength and price
80% of the strength of a wheel is in the build.
I'd love to see something to back this statement up, because I think it's mostly guff! 🙂
Personally I doubt there's more than 5% difference between one builder and another. I'd like to see a wheel that's 80% stronger than one I can build, using the same components.
PeterPoddy - MemberI'd like to see a wheel that's 80% stronger than one I can build, using the same components.
You are brilliantly misunderstanding his point. Looking for an argument? 😀
According to Roger Munson's book, the most important bit is the spokes. Get the best spokes possible.
Within reason, any hub and rim will do but spokes need to be the best you can get quality wise
He uses DT competition and Revolution
Any decent spokes are fine.
Hi,
From some advice I was given by my LBS, hand built wheels done properly will be fair better than than mass produced machine built wheels.
Although not up your way Harry Rowlands is a top wheel builder, he is based in Ramsgate, Kent and is used by my LBs. He can be found at; http://www.harryrowland.co.uk/.
Give him a call I'm sure he can give you some good advice. I had a pair of wheels built (road) by him a fair while back and they were really good wheels and I will be using his services to build me 2 more pairs (MTB) in the very near future.
Jules
How strong do you want these wheels to be?
I have sme very very strong wheels on the tandem - but they might be a bit heavy for solo touring use.
I'd go with hope hoops and get them tweaked by a good wheelbuilder
get a pair of Superstar switch wheels:£100,2 year warranty and hand built...they aren't the lightest but they can take a beating,check them out.Absolute bargain in the world of over-priced and over-rated mtb wheels.Heavier rims will "accelerate" slower,is that important?
go one then gw what the knack with 5.1 rims 😉 to be fair last night when i gave up i was fitting ust ralphs to 5.1 rims with rim tape , doublesided tape and a dt rimstrip ;-( i nearly cut the buggers off lol. i will retry later i think without the tape . starting opposite the valve of course 😉
oh and recommend builds from spa cycles
From some advice I was given by my LBS, hand built wheels done properly will be fair better than than mass produced machine built wheels.
I'd go with hope hoops and get them tweaked by a good wheelbuilder
+1 for either
