[Closed] Singlespeed dilemma...

A single speed frame with an EBB or sliding dropouts is better than using a tensioner.
SS specific wheels are theoretically stronger because there's less spoke offset. In reality, I don't think it makes any difference.

I have seen a Sanderson soloist in Merlin which looks quite nice, but, I have seen a Whyte hard tail which I may even look at going 1x9 ....

Cable guides look ugly..... and when your will is weak may lead to temptation to cheat.

Cable guides look ugly.

single speederists look uglier, a couple of cable guides will be the last of your worries

Had slidey Inbreds before my SIR.9 (EBB), only issue with slidey dropouts is keeping wheel tight without faffing about with tugs. After swapping to a nutted solid axle this problem goes away though, & is a simple swap on Shimano hubs. Niners EBB is better still. Can't say I've found my Surly SS specific wheels any stronger, but running a White Ind freewheel is good. Used to get through freewheels quite regularly beforehand. The WI freewheel just goes on & on. If I was buying new wheels I'd probably go for a std Pro2 hub out back though, so I could run geared when needed. Have to keep a spare wheel for the back at the moment.

[Edit] There's nowt like a singlespeed thread to fetch that Tazzy bloke out of the shadows. Ignore him. Chicks dig singlespeeders. 🙂

Geared frame with a Rohloff tensioner. I had zero problems when I singlespeeded like this, but i have had two frames with horizontal dropouts and both required constant tinkering to get tension to stay good which often needed the brake adjusted also... Pain...
For a SS specific wheel either get a Hope SS with King steel cog (if you don't like singlespeed you can always revert to 5 speed), or freewheel setup with a White Industries freewheel (the only freewheel than wont crunch itself to bits after one winter)... Money spent on better bits now will make for a far more pleasant experience long term 🙂

Oh dear me......another freak SSerist.....if only you knew what happens next 😀 first steps on the slippery slope to niche town.

😀

I'd always just use a normal wheel with a freehub and use a spacer kit. There's possibly a strength benefit to a non-dished wheel, but since I've been running a touring bike rim on my 29er for the last 5 years with no issue I don't think I'm ever going to put wheel strength to the test.

The only place I ever had chain slippage issues with a tensioner was at Hit The North. Rode there twice on a bike that was fine everywhere else and had major issues both times. But proper SS looks much better.

sliding dropouts don't employ tugnuts. track ends do. 😉
tensioners should be ok, i'd recommend the solid, roller type ones from friends experiences. other option if the frame of your choice has iscg mounts is to use something like a blackspire stinger and tension at the front, rather than the rear.

Using a whippet here, also use a love hate when I feel like swapping. The love hate Ebb is easier I find for getting the wheel off to get it in the car.

There's nowt like a singlespeed thread to fetch that Tazzy bloke out of the shadows. Ignore him.

*blows raspberry at takisawa2* 😀

having used all sorts of ss frames my faves are anything with an EBB or swinging "black cat" style dropout.

Pretty much any normal frame bodged to a ss with a tensioner is going to be a frustrating compromise (from personal experience) so I'd go for either a pure SS frame or one with the option running gears or ss so if you don't like it, you haven't spunked a load of money on something you're not going to use.

Oh, and a funny shaped niche chainring is a must 😆

sliding dropouts don't employ tugnuts

Most do - it's just the rubbishy Kona ones that don't

I'd avoid a frame with slotted disc brake mounts so you don't need to adjust the brake position when tensioning the frame. ie one where the brake mount moves with the rear axle or an EBB.