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I'm planning a weekend in the lakes, and going to give some of the big climbs a try, ie hardknott. Now I'm reasonably fit, but never ridden anything along the lines of that type of gradient and I'm thinking that I may need a bale out gear or 2.
Currently running a lowest gear of 34/28 although I think I have a 32 im a cupboard somewhere. But I'm thinking one option would be use my 42 tooth xt cassette from the mtb.
I realise I'd need a road link to make that work, and a new chain, but will a road link only work with a 40 tooth cassette. Given this setup will be used for one weekend only I'm not going to shell out 50 quid on a cassette I'll use for 2 days.
I realise the real answer is mtfu... However given that probably won't happen I'm looking for another option to avoid walking up the hills..
If you're a reasonably fit as you think / say you are there's nothing in the lakes (tarmac) that can't be ridden on 34/28.
Stick the 32t on if you can find it, but I really wouldn't bother going to the expense and hassle of fitting the 42t, you'd likely need a new chain too.
Rode with my son up Honister (25%) on a 34/32 and it was OK, but I don't think I'd have got up on a 34/28. I'm just not fit enough.
It was only when I got home that I realised that I had screwed up my son's gear selection before I left home and he rode up on a 36/30. I thought he was making hard work of it! He got a sausage roll at the top, and a huge apology from his dad when we got back home!
*hangs head in shame*
34-32 should give you a bail out, there is plenty of easier pedalling in between the steep stuff on hardknott
Shirley you can use the wnd lowest cog on the mtb cassette and that will do it 42T doesn't work? Or is that close to 28...?
If you are "reasonably fit" then 34-28 should be fine. The steep bits aren't overly long so once past each one ease off as much as you can to recover for the next one.
Do it early in the morning for two reasons: if going west to east then the climbing will be in the shade; there'll be less traffic.
Shirley you can use the wnd lowest cog on the mtb cassette and that will do it 42T doesn’t work? Or is that close to 28…?
XT Cassette is 11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28-32-37-42, so 2nd biggest might still not work with existing rear derailleur.
I'm struggling to think of any UK road climbs I cant get up with my 34/32.
You'll be fine with that, just dont blow your wad on the 1st section, recover as much as possible on middle before the final section.
druid - I meant with the hanger thingmy.
@mrchrispy - have you done this one https://www.strava.com/segments/3618354 ? If you've ever done the Cowlyd Loop then it's the last descent.
When I say 'reasonably fit' I mean by standards of recreational cyclist.. Im no racer or mountain goat. I'm going to assume that to get up hardknott you will need to be putting out around 400 Watts on the steep bits to even keep moving... Not a problem for a minute at a time, but if I'm needing to do that kind of power for any longer than that I'll be walking in no time.
I’ve got an XTR 11Mech and cassette running on road shifters through a Lindarets Tanpan - despite it saying 40t max cassette, I can’t see any reason why a 42 wouldn’t fit. I’ve just quickly measured a 42t SRAM cassette and a 40t Shimano and the difference in diameter is 2-3mm, whilst the clearance between the upper grannywheel and cassette is closer to 15mm. It should work.
Just to give an example (and a humble brag) I'd say I was 'reasonably fit' with an ftp of around 4w/kg and I got up Hardknott on the Fred Whitton so 90 miles and 3000m+ climbing in the legs with a 34-28.
I haven't got an on-bike power meter but strava estimates 270w average for the 10 and a bit minutes which I'd say wasn't far off but it's skewed cause there's a flatish recovery section in between the proper hard bits. Peaks are around 600w.
I have Proper power meter. 270 Watts for 10 minutes is doable as a consistent effort. But throw in 600 watt bursts and I'd be screwed I reckon. I'm a spinner, not a grinder.
I’ve got an XTR 11Mech and cassette running on road shifters through a Lindarets Tanpan
I didn't think road and mtb gear was compatible?? If it is is there any reason I can't just chuck on my mtb rear mech for the day and run with the 42 tooth cassette.. And not bother faffing with the road link ? Or is the issue not so much the length of the Rear mech on the road bike, and more the length of the hanger?
Difference between road shifters and XT rear mech I'd the pull ratio. Which the tanpan sorts out. It doesn't sort out using a plus 32 cassette you need the road link for that
OP didn’t ask what other people used or if he should. He asked if it was possible. I am using a long cage 8000 Ultegra di2 with a 42 cassette with no road link. Just screwed the b screw in until the top jockey wheel cleared the biggest cog.
You sacrifice some shifting crispness further down the block.
I think you should try the cassette in the Garage and see if it will work. No harm in trying. Remember you need a spacer to put on the free hub as it’s a Mtb cassette.
Coming from a Mtb background I cannot get my head round pushing a 28 tooth cassette up a 25% slope at 50 rpm. Seems less effort on these climbs to spin a smaller gear and save the legs.
There gets to be a gradient where it's easier to stand and potentially grind than sit and spin. For me it's about 16% depending on the bike I'm on. When you are stood up it's only like climbing a set of stairs, doesn't really matter what cadence you use.
Coming from a Mtb background I cannot get my head round pushing a 28 tooth cassette up a 25% slope at 50 rpm. Seems less effort on these climbs to spin a smaller gear and save the legs.
This is kinda my thinking. I rarely get out the saddle and can spin away at 240 Watts no problem. But as soon as I go into the 400 Watts range I pretty much cook myself within a few minutes. By my reckoning I'll need to be pushing around that any time the road goes above 20%
I've climbed an alp which had a couple of k's of 12% and it wasn't an issue but My only reference of 17 % ish stuff is on the mtb, on a Climb that is roughly a third of a kilometer and I honestly don't think I'd get up there on a road bike..
Don't be so effing negative!
I'm a skinny guy, 63kg, 170cm, but I got up Hardknott during the Fred Whitton on a 34-25. It's doable you just need to keep muscling the pedals around. I wasn't even particularly fit at the time, average speed for the day was about 13.5 mph. Get her done on the gear you have and stop worrying about it.
To semi-hijack the thread... I’ve got a 5 day tour coming up with the added weight of bags etc so was thinking about how to add a bail-out gear. Not come across these products before, look ideal! Currently got 10sp STIs with 9 speed MTB mech so 36T biggest cog. Can I use their Goat Link device and a new cassette with a 40T (or swap the 36 for one of their 40s)? Is it as simple as that? New chain as well probably?
The road link works with a 40 tooth, but I think you need the right length rear mech..probably medium cage, mine is short cag
Dude on you tube has the road link work with a 42 tooth, so it does work with that, but I'll need a longer mech.
Don’t be so effing negative
Actually you are right.. I'd probably get more satisfaction doing it on proper road bike gears.. Deep down I'd know using a 42 is cheating!. *I just need to train more.. Maybe I'll take off my front mech for a month beforehand
Not sure that thinking about it terms of watts is helpful as that depends on how heavy you are and how fast you're going, and like whitestone says, once you're out of the saddle you can really drop the cadence to keep the power down.