Yeah, MTFU and all that but....
I am not the fittest rider and on the road bike I seem to be either using the inner gears of the cassette in the 50T chainring or the outer gears of the cassette in the 34T chainring. The middle of the cassette doesn't seem to get too much of a look in.
This obviously doesn't seem the correct way to go about things, as my chainline seems to be constantly too far one way or too far the other way.
I have been wondering whether swapping the 50T chainring for a 48T one would allow me to stay in the outer ring for longer and make better use of the middle of the cassette, rather than being at the extremes.
Anyone else done this (and willing to admit it!)?
Good idea or should I just persevere?
My thinking is that once I get a bit fitter, I can put the 50T back on and pretend it never happened.
If you don't feel right and can't use the full range of the cassette then change the ring.
Doesn't matter what others think, it's your bike.
Might not make a huge difference? You could always shove it in the Sheldon Brown gear calculator and see whether you think it's worth it?
Maybe a bit smaller?
thinking of doing this for my all-purpose bike for similar reasons. about to cost up a different chainring. maybe even 46t.
Yeah, MTFU and all that but....
Not really. 48/11 is about the same as 53/12, which is what everyone was using a few years back. You'll also get the benefit of a smaller gap in ratios on the chainrings, which is a real problem on compacts IMO.
I'd persevere. If you're new to road biking, fitness and strength will improve and you'll find you'll end up pushing bigger gears. It's nice to have a broader range of gears and you may find you spin out on downhills with a 48.
All the gears are there to be used right? Providing your gears are set up properly and the chain isn't catching on the front cage, what's the issue?
48/11 is about the same as 53/12, which is what everyone was using a few years back.
That's interesting. I've got 1x9 on my "road" bike, 48T, 11-34.
Always thought 48x11 was plenty fast enough for downhill!
I think gearing is very much "each to their own". Road gearing used to be based on riders spinning a lower cadence and a standard double (53/39?) was what everyone had but it's now the norm (brought on by the Armstrong era)for riders to spin a higher cadence so broader gears have become the norm. The industry has realised that normal folk can't always get up hills on a 39 x 25 gear.
For some races (hilly stages in the Giro), you'll see pros riding compact 50-34 chainsets with 11-32 cassettes. I guess they have the luxury of a mechanic and unlimited parts though.
I've always ridden a 50/34 compact but have had an 11-28 cassette for a little extra at each end. There are big jumps between ratios but it's nice to have a bike that I can ride up and down everything.
Not really new to road biking, I've had a road bike for just over a year but trying to find time to get fitter is proving tricky. Getting better, but not that quickly.
I think I am more of a spinner, so am not too concerned about running out of gears on the down hills. Not that there are many round me! It's more the long stretches of head wind that are the problem. Long, straight roads can often result in riding into a head wind for 20 mins or so.
Seems like it could be worth trying. Spa Cycles have got Stronglight rings for £29. They do cheaper ones, but apparently they don't last long.
Anywhere else do 48t rings for Sora (110bcd, I think).
It's nice to have a broader range of gears and you may find you spin out on downhills with a 48.
48/11 gives 34mph at 100 rpm. 53/12, which was the standard pro gearing for years, gives 34.5mph.
It should be fine, what's your cassette? I've got a 12-27 cassette and a compact chainset, feels like the best all round for the usual sunday bimble/clubrun pace.
Wonder if shimano will be bringing out a 1x11 'CX' groupset, I reckon 50/11-32 would cover pretty much every gear I ever use, with gaps no bigger than they were in 11-25 9 speed.
Cassette I think is 12-25.
Good to know I'm ahead of the curve! 🙂
Using the whole cassette is one of the reasons I like the 1x9 set-up.
With a double, I found I'd be in the top (smallest sprockets) half of the cassette almost all the time, sometimes in the same sprocket for decent chunks, just clicking small ring for traffic lights and hills, big ring for moving on the flat.
Fit a larger cassette. Seriously!
For one thing it'll be cheaper than fitting a 48T chainring. It will also give you a better spread of gears to use, particularly at the low end.
On a road bike with a 34/50 chainset, and a 12-25 cassette, I find that sometimes the lowest gear just isn't enough to get up really steep hills, but with an 11-28 or even better, a 12-30, it's much more suitable for my sit and spin style to get up the really steep slopes. Also, with a 12-30, generally I can stay in the 50T ring for longer anyway, and my chain line is better when I'm rattling along on the flat too...
Change the cassette instead. If you aren't getting down the block, a 12-30 has a good range but there are some big jumps. You might like to try custom sprockets: ( http://www.marchisio.eu/en/sprockets-cassette/):
32,28,25,23,21,19,17,16,15,14
That's a tight block with a good range and constant ratio changes. You will still be able to pedal downhill.
It won't be cheaper as he'll have to put a longer chain on to cope with the biggest sprocket.
fit a standard and use the 39.
If you stick with it, over time your legs will get stronger and you will find you can push the bigger gear easier.
If you have done loads of mtb stuff it allows you to get used to very easy gears.
I hadnt been on my mtb for about 4 months until this weekend, and found myself going up steep climbs on the big front ring on my 2 x 10 set up, where previously I would have definitely been in the small ring.
Anyone else done this (and willing to admit it!)?
waves 8)
run what shimano describe as an MTB touring chainset on my CX/drop bar hybrid has a 48T outer as standard - for all out road I run an 11-32 rear - I spin out at about 32mph with cadence at 95 ish but can maintain slightly higher but would need an early café stop
this calculator is good assuming you know your cadence
[url] http://www.bikecalc.com/cadence_at_speed [/url]
I'm out to enjoy the ride, spin up hills have a coffee and look at the view - a lot of club roadies pass me and I mean a lot - but I'm not training for races
If you were running a 53 front I'd suggest dropping to a 50
with set up you've got I'd def' think about a 28 on the rear just to make hills pleasant rather than a grind
if you want to ride faster rather than worry about chainline then
if not got one I'd buy a computer with cadence and buy or borrow a copy of Joe Friel's The Cyclist's Training Bible as changing rings will only make life easier not faster, targeted training will give improvements
for an extra "spanner in the works" ... I changed from 34 inner to a 36
whilst leaving the 50 on and a 12-27 out back .... much more time on
the inner ring with a better spread of gears - OK so it's campag and I
therefore have 11 to play with ... but 90+ rpm is comfy now over most
terrain I ride ... 🙂
mboy & TiRed, I did consider a new cassette, but looking at the ratios they seemed pretty similar at the small end and just have bigger gaps nearer the top.
It's a 9speed cassette.
Also, as mentioned by martinxyz, I'll probably need a new chain too.
Funkydunc, yeah I have considered just sticking with it. But then I figure what is the point? I should get a more suitable set-up and then switch back to the 50 when my fitness improves.
antigee, I've got an Edge 500 and use the cadence sensor. I tend to pedal pretty fast, I think. Looking at my last few rides average cadence has been 91, 93 and 91.
I'm currently trying to increase my fitness and have been semi-using a training calendar in Cycling Active magazine. But, I don't think my riding is regular enough to follow a rigorous training plan. Some weeks riding 4 or 5 times is no problem, while other times I might only get out for one short ride in a week.
I think I am gonna go for the 48t ring to start. The cheap Stronglight ones can be had from eBay for about £14 so no big deal even if I try it and don't find it helps.
Will the bike take it? My road bike won't let the front derailleur drop down far enough to run a 46.
Would 48 be that much of a difference? A slightly bigger cassette maybe a better option. Or even a bigger inner ring. Are you using your inner ring enough, I find there is generally quite a big overlap and need to get out of the mindset that the inner ring is only for climbs.
Anyway, might work well for you, just thought I'd suggest other things to consider.
mboy & TiRed, I did consider a new cassette, but looking at the ratios they seemed pretty similar at the small end and just have bigger gaps nearer the top.
Bigger gaps near the top are required for "constant" ratio spacing. That said, I agree that Shimano want you to have that 11 or 12 cog, when most people would be happy with a 13 or 14.
I race 50 with 23-11 and ride general stuff with 50 12-25. I find the 12-28 has a BIG gap where you need it, hence there is a lot to be said for custom sprockets. The 28 is a good start, you can build them up from Shimano as only the three largest sprockets are fixed.