I seem to be having issues with my Reba Fork which has curtailed my riding trip.
So, I'm going to get them sorted once and for all.
I currently have the bar mounted remote (well cable operated actually) lock off which I use a lot but now it doesn't open or spring back when pressed. The actuall mechanism at the bar is OK and the cap on the fork leg springs back into the unlocked position Ok but when it's cabled up, it all jams up.
Last night having finished riding at Afan, it was the straw that broke the camels back and I got the train home - riding trip cancelled.
A thought that occured to me though was, shouldn't I be able to set the threshold so that I don't get any fork bob from above but the fork still works fine from below (if you know what I mean). Shouldn't this negate the need for a lock off altogether?
I do quite a lot of miles on this bike including a fair amount of road as I normally ride to the off road sections which can be as much as 20 miles away. Bobbing along for that length of time on road would have me raging!
Sounds like you just need a new cable. simples.
If you really want to get rid of the remote and it's very easy - unscrew yours, top up any oil you lose and screw in the replacement.
Or you can actually remove the return spring from the motion control cartridge so that it effectively works as a normal lockout - Peter Poddy did a guide for this which no doubt someone will post a link to soon.
Your idea about the threshold is sort of right - lock the fork out but then set the threshold very low. It does make the fork harsher (since it's locked on smaller stuff) and it will still bob if you pedal like a loon (the fork can't tell if it's being pushed from above or below, can it)
My remote used to jam, until I changed the cable & outer and generally gave it a bit of a clean up/adjust.
You can buy the bits to convert it to non-remote so you have the twiddly compression dial on the leg, rather than the sprung remote dial.
What forks are they? My Reba Team Air U-turns don't bob that much anyway with the lockout off. You do notice the difference when you lock it out on the road, but it's not a massive change.
Is the cable snapped at the bottom of the remote? mine is and has been since about day 2 of bike ownership. I find I have to pull up the remote and bounce the fork to get it to release usually.
New cable fitted as part of my determined but increasingly frantic attempts to not have to write off my tour of South Wales.
It was just the last problem in a week of problems and I threw the towel in.
I was thinking, if I just remove the lever and cable altogether and set the floodgate so it needs harsh bumps from below (same principle as the Spesh Epic's brain), would that work?
Email me.
I'll show you how....
😀
No - it's just not the same as the Spesh which has a inertia valve which can identify the diffenece between the wheel being pushed up (bump) and the rider pushing down (pedalling).
to get the threshold/floodgate to do anything, you have to set the fork to the lockout position. If you set the floodgate at its lightest setting then the lockout will basically do nothing, full on it'll be fully locked and in between anything that's not big enough to get over the threshold will leave the fork locked out.
Anyway, it's probably a combination of slightly gritty cables and the fork top dial also being a bit gritty - neither on their own enough to stop it moving but put it together and it sticks.
As said....floodgate only works when the fork is locked out. It basically adjusts how 'locked out' the fork is.
You take the lockout off, twiddling the floodgate will do nothing.
ahhh, I see. Where can I buy the fork mounted lock off? I can't seem to find it with a google search.
Peter, I shall email you now, thank you.
Thnaks also to everybody else.
Where can I buy the fork mounted lock off
anywhere that sells RS products. They're pretty expensive though (£90 IIRC) which is why I suggested swapping on on the classifieds.
cripes!
I think TFT tuned sell all the bits.
Oh, if you do the Poddy bodge method, you can then just buy the dial which is much cheaper!
Get some of these. I've got them on all my cables and they work wonders in the grit around Dartmoor.
http://www.middleburn.co.uk/access_cableoilers.php
The manual adjustment knob kit is about £30 from TFT. Peterpoddys guide is a great way to change it over, but you can also remove the return spring quite easily, rather than leaving it in.
Glad I saw this thread as I have exactly the same problem as the ''op'' and will now have a fettle on mine. 😀