After snapping two egg beater spindles (no, not the usual collapsed bearing problem, I actually snap the spindles) I replaced them with Ward Industries titanium spindles which have a 235lb rider weight limit.
Just Riding Along last night (about 9km/h up a 15% grade on tarmac according to my GPS since you ask) I snapped a WI spindle.
I like the design of Egg beaters, but I can't go on like this.
Any opinions on Look Quartz ?
Yes - horrible.
I'll sell you a pair with very little use for £15 if you want to try them out? 😉
They are horrible though. Vague engagement and release and a reall tall profile.
Best I've used are the newer Shimano trail style pedals - loads of lateral support, nice low profile, and a reliable mechanism with positive entry/release.
They are horrible though. Vague engagement and release and a reall tall profile.
+1, worst product I've tried. Had some cheap ones and some Carbon Ti ones and they were utterly crap!
I bring you Shimano SPD.
Oh, Ok then. How about Time, they look like a similar engagement system.
Just to muck it all up 😀 I've had a set of Carbon/Ti Quartz fitted to my bike since 2008 ish - put some proper miles on them and they are still going. Slight bit of play in one bearing but i won't be doing anything to them anytime soon.
Proper setup is key with them.
They have changed the design with them though - the new ones have a third bar in them to make them engage harder etc.
What's wrong with 540s?
The rate you destroy stuff Graham any sort of boutique pedal is a bad idea.
GB
time,had a pair since 2000 still going strong 😀
I like the novelty of having a shimano free bike.
Anyway, that's two votes against Look and one for, plus one vote for Time.
No mention that I can find of replacement bearings anywhere for either of them though.
Haven't the new egg beaters got a 5 year warranty ?
I wonder if it's worth trying them.
Time Z Freeride.
You won't need bearings because you will have worn the cages out first.
Hth
Marko
A few years ago it was genuinely difficult to have a Shimano-free mountain bike (I had a friend who ran a short cage campag mech to complete his Shimano-free bike). But now SRAM is in the game it's easy as pie and refusing to run superior components for a novelty that isn't a novelty is... proving a point to no-one.
Not the EggBeater 1's though.MidlandTrailquestsGraham - Member
Haven't the new egg beaters got a 5 year warranty ?
I wonder if it's worth trying them.
Bang on Superficial!
Some of the Eggies have a 5-year warranty, others much less.
Look at the weights and the different bearing types on CRC.
The better models have needle bearing inners which weigh more than a polymer bush.
I sympathise with your problem and wait for my eggies with ebay Ti axles to fail at a bad moment, but not happened yet.
However, I have Shimano SPD-525s that have done nearly 40,000 miles with only one strip and grease.
They seem truly strong, over-engineered and more prone to clogging.
So, pay your money and enjoy the ride.
PaulD
strange old world isn't it. I love my look quartz carbon, better than my XTR's and silly light. They've also taken a right old kicking with rock strikes etc in the peak district and they haven't missed a beat.
My vote goes with the "don't mess about, just buy Shimano" crowd.
I've had Eggbeaters (about 6 months to failure) and Time (about a year to failure) in the past.
I've had Shimano M520s for two years now, and they've been great. Just about the most no-fuss components on my bike. They've done the Divide twice (5,400 miles there), plus all my other riding in that period. And they cost £20.
I thought that lack of float or clogging could be a problem, but I actually prefer the more secure feeling and I haven't had any clogging.
If you want to spend > £100 and be non-mainstream, I'll polish the Shimano logo off for £80 🙂
Aidan +1
I use Egg Beaters because they're light. Change to Shimanos over winter, to stop the CBs falling apart. Shimanos work forever!
Still using Times I bought in 1998. Strip down & replace the bearings every five years or so and say goodbye to pedal angst.
I like Time atacs/rocs. Similar feel to eggbeaters and as good at clearing mud but last much, much, much longer.
I was thinking of running these spindles what do weigh if you don't mind me asking and where do the break.
I have the old Eggbeater C with ebay Ti axles at 227g (were 293g with standard CroMo).
I also have Candy X with CB Ti axles at 241g
I also have Candy X with standard CroMo axles at 300g
Ti axles are approx £25 from Taiwan on ebay.
PaulD
Just to bring it back to the real world:
The difference in weight between the CroMo and Ti is pretty close to 30 Maltesers !
SPD - [b]s[/b]himano [b]p[/b]edaling [b]d[/b]ynamics
enough said.
No shimano lover here but I have spds on all my bikes and they just work.
Been using Speedplay Frogs for 12+ years. I'm sorted.
This is the broken Ward Industries spindle.
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I've got 3 pairs of egg beaters with WI spindles and I have lost track of which ones are which as I have swapped them between bikes.
I bought my first pair in August 2010, so assuming a worst case scenario that I have done all my mileage on one set, they have lasted no more than 15000km.
They are rated for a maximum rider weight of 235lbs (106kg). I weigh about 95kg.
Dave, the Speedplay Frogs say they are compatible with SPD road shoes. I take it that means they have got a three bolt fixing for the cleats ?
are yours the old eggbeater design - don't the new ones have thicker axles?
I use Look 4x4s but they are susceptible to axles breaking I believe as well, but the mud clearance is a good feature of the eggbeater design.
If you really don't want Shimano, I think both Ritchie and Wellgo make Shimano-style pedals that do the same job the same way, and only slightly worse...
Time for me, bearings are penny's and even a numpty like me can change them easily. The only way I've worn out one of a set, was to wear through the cage, took quite a few years though.
are yours the old eggbeater design - don't the new ones have thicker axles?
Those are the older ones, dunno about thicker, but they don't have the 'steps' in the axle, which are obvious stress raisers.
You have to get the 3 or the 11 IIRC though, the 1 certainly doesn't, and I don't think the 2 has the new design.
Time Atacs got good reviews [url= http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/any-look-quartz-time-atac-xs-clipless-pedal-users-on-here-reviews ]here[/url] and [url= http://www.mtbr.com/cat/drivetrain/pedal/time/atac-pedal/prd_352539_135crx.aspx ]here[/url], which means they appear to meet my criteria of being both niche and reliable, so that's what I've gone for.
I'll let you know when I break them.
i switched to times from beaters. i also snapped a candy axle in half ( stainless one ), which prompted my move. had to re-equip 5 bikes so it wasn't a choice made lightly.
been running them for a year or two now. difficult to remember as i just don't think about them, they just work. more positive click in and out than EBs, with the same advantages EBs provide. because the clips on times are isolated from the internals they don't let crap in after a period of service.
i'd recommend aliums over atacs as they provide a little more support and their action is a bit more positive. i also use z-freeride and like them too.
Time pedals are the way ahead.
I've been running Tme ATACs for 15 years or so, no real problems.
First lasted 4 or 5 years with no maintenance at all, bearings seized one day just bought a new set.
Has anyone mentioned time yet?..best ones by a mile IMO 😀 the brass cleats wear quicker than shimanu ones tho,..
WOW I have never seen or heard of a broken Time Atac pedal of any sort since I came off the road bike and started mtbing in 98!
What are you doing to them? With this and your broken frames you must really be tough on kit
I really don't know how I did it.
Probably about 100km use, both wheels on the ground at all times.
I noticed a click from the pedal while riding up a slight hill on tarmac again. I stopped to check and could see that the pedal body was moving on the spindle, although it wouldn't slide right off.
I'm about 95kg and when I had a go on a Powertap once I managed a 3 second maximum of about 700w.
I see videos of downhillers jumping 30' drops and hear about road racers putting out 1500w and they don't break pedals.
How do I do it plodding along slowly on a mountain bike ?
Just buy some XTRs and be done with it...
Or even some 540s which is what I use on all my MTBs, even racey ones. Pedals take such a hammering even XTR only lasted a couple of seasons so now I just get a set of £25 540s every now and again.
There are some parts that I insist on using no matter what else is available - Shimano pedals top of the list.
GB
[i]There are some parts that I insist on using no matter what else is available - Shimano pedals top of the list.[/i]
I would agree with this although the drive-side of my 3 ride old XT Trail SPD pedal has already developed play. Despite this, I'd still recommend Shimano as I guess I've just got unlucky as my previous Shimano pedals have all proved very reliable.
I think you're pretty unlucky there, MTG....I have two pairs of those (I think...Time ATAC XS carbon?) and they've been awesome. On muddy winter rides I hear friends with Shimano's complaining when the Time's just work with no fuss.
The time ATAC XS carbons are about 320g and £100ish - quite a bit heavier than the eggbeater ti and the like, I guess. The extra weight is well worth it to me for the functionality / reliability, though.
I got fed up of eggies self destructing in the middle of nowhere. Switched to Time and they've been faultless
I'm in a bit of a dilemma now about what to do next.
I was going to buy a second pair of Times for the spare bike.
Should I accept that the failure was a one off and in future they will last me for years, like they seem to do for everyone else.
Should I get Looks as all the bad reviews seem to be about the pre 2009 model.
Should I get the new Egg beaters with the 5 year warranty. I'd need some reassurance that the bearings and springs are covered as I can't imagine them lasting me more than 6 months going by previous experience.
I can't understand why the Time bearing failed. It looks about the same size as an Egg beater bearing and they last me a few months as long as I ignore 2pure's advice about not removing the seals and regreasing them.
I bought some speedplay frogs off here & I'm in love.
Just get Shimano. If you're an equipment destroyer it really is your best bet. I'm impressed at that Time. I know singlespeeder gear mashers who used them for years with no problem. even they use Shimano now though.
shimano.
I'm with TJ on this - don't particularly like Shimano stuff generally, but the pedals are superb - I bought second hand 520s from ebay for a few quid (they looked to have had a hard life) a few years back and have hammered them hard and just used and used them on my singlespeed. I'm not a light rider. Finally replaced them with some new XTs (extravagance for me) a couple of weeks ago as the slop in the driveside bearing was getting really bad. The new ones seem incredibly good, give me another 10 years and I'll let you know if they last well too!
Are you not getting cleat-confusion with all this Eggbeater / Time swapping around that you're doing?
WTF? You broke time pedals? New ones? 😯
Good god...
Just get Shimano and stop being so niche, they really do last for ever. I took the cages off my M424's about a year ago, lasted until now in the Peak District and still perfect, even with a little gap for stuff to get in. M520 for cheapy cheapness, m540 are a bit more s****y, XTR have gold bits on them.
A quick bit of advice before I buy please.
There appears to be two types of Look pedal with different bars/springs.
I take it [url= http://clee-cycles.co.uk/esite/P1339/product;jsessionid=3CA5810F14FA24C41838CA58D953ACD4 ]these[/url] are the pre 2009 model and [url= http://clee-cycles.co.uk/esite/P1605/product;jsessionid=3CA5810F14FA24C41838CA58D953ACD4 ]these[/url] are the 2009 on model. Is that right ?
The strange thing is that CRC are showing the [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=21595 ]older type[/url] in grey, but when you click on the 360 view, it shows the newer type in red.
They changed pretty soon after their introduction. Hopefully it was for the better, as I had the original ones and they were totally shit. Really really shit. You had to spend ages shimming them to your shoes, and then if you used soft soled shoes (as most top end ones tend to be) you'd then have all sorts of fun with accidental releases after a few rides and you got a minute change in the tread depth! Not to mention if you got mud on the soles and you couldn't then clip in.
About the only component that I would never ever use again, even if you paid me.
Shimano FTW.
Graham
I'll take the broken Time's off you if your not going to continue with them
My email's in my profile
Mike
"[i]For Sale: Pair Time pedals (1 broken) would suit cyclist with 1 leg (preferably the right one)[/i]"
Mike, they're only 3 days old. I'm sending them back for a warranty claim.
Fair enough Graham ;o)
Hate to say I told you so, but lots of people did tell you so.
I got my M520s with the refund Wiggle gave me on a £100 pair of Time pedals and pocketed the £80 difference.
Those M520s of mine have outlasted 2 frames, a Stans rim, a crankset, 6 tyres, 2 stem faceplates, 2 Ti frames, 2 sets of BB bearings, countless freehub springs and bearings. Believe me, they just last.
I buy a pair of 520s when I need a new pair of cleats 🙂
I would buy Shimano than put some bleeding Look stickers on them. Everyone will still think you're a dedicated niche-twit and they won't break every 30 seconds. Sorted.
While waiting for the Time pedals to be returned, I bought some Look pedals.
They lasted about three months.
I put the replacement Time pedals back on and they seem to be doing OK this time.
I still needed some pedals for my spare bike though, so I've just ordered some [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=3759 ]M520s for £19[/url], which is not much more than a pair of Look, Time or Crank Brothers cleats and cheap enough to treat them as a disposable item once the bearing get rough or the cleats wear out.
If only someone had made that suggestion 🙄

