gonna buy a new camera, got £700 to spend.
i want the easiest to use to best pic quality ratio one.
one that fits, ton. For £700 you;ll get a reasonabe SLR, you actuallly need to hold them in your hands to see what fits - smaller camerass might be great for people with small hands, but the controls may be too closely spaced for someone with larger hands and vice versa
Couple of things to look at
EOS 500D Lens Kit (EF-S 18-55 IS) £519.99 - this does HD video
Nikon D90 + 18-105 VR lens £759.05 - not well up on Nikon specs, but the lens has an excellent spread
Check here for those prices and others
http://www.camerapricebuster.co.uk/
I use canon - unlike bikes, you tend to buy one brand and stick with it, as the lenses are more of an investment. If anything, get a cheaper body and a more expensive lens.
How about the new Canon G11?
Most of the benefits of a DSLR but about half the size and no worry about what lens to stick on.
I have a D90 and would recommend it unreservedly but I'm sure the Canon is brilliant too - I don't think you'll ever go wrong with either.
What do your mates have? there might be an opportunity to borrow lenses if you buy the same brand as them.
Oh and buy yourself a prime lens for brilliant low light/fast shutter speed performance.
[img] 
[/img]
First dibs.
If your interested ton I have a professional photographer (good) friend who sells all her kit 1yr after using it. Shes abit of a new-techo ho' and must have the latest updates/kit etc. She must go through 10k of kit a year!
Ton,
if I had £700 to spend on a new camera which would give me excellent quality results, be portable enough to carry on bike rides, flexible enough to have interchangeable lenses and have most of the functionality of an SLR, I'd be pretty excited about the Olympus Pen E-P1...
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/olympusep1/
Or a slightly cheaper option, with lens packages for your £700, Panasonic Lumix GF1
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/PanasonicGF1/
Aye - if you do buy one of these and change your mind after a week, I'll be wanting first refusal...
😉
Fights and struggles with stuartie_c - hey back in line Mister!
If he goes with my suggestion hora, I feel I have the moral high ground on this one...
The Panasonic is a better camera than the Olympus PEN, if I was in the market I would probably go for one at the moment for mountain biking (though I have just found I can fit my 5D in my Camelbak with the 28=135 attached, so that is good!)
you have £700 to spend? and have NO idea what to get? surely not???
this can't be your first camera...
why??
thanks for the info boys, gonna have a word with deejay on sunday about a camera, and i might even ask barnes for some advice..........when he stops sulking with me.
Ton, please excuse my rudeness but how much do you earn and can i do you job please? 😉
Nikon D60 (about£300-£350) and get yourself a decent zoom lens (Nikon or Sigma) and a flash (if you plan to take shots in woods) and bikes/people zooming along or in the air....a complete package to achieve your photo objectives.
Look at Ametuer Photographer website (and loads of other really good and infomrative sites) to learn how to put everything into practice.........Robert is your mother's brother !!
tails, this is a insurance thing, for a broken camcorder on our holiday...
Id second the G11 ive got a DSLR and despite its excellent picture quality im far less likely to take it out for a ride with me than i would have done my old G5, Ive found the the DSLR far to bulky to be convenient for me.
Get a cheap body and spend your money on a decent lens. It's the lens much more than the camera that makes the difference to image quality.
tails, this is a insurance thing, for a broken camcorder on our holiday...
ahhh nightmare. hope you didn't lose to many memories/images/videos
oh and to answer your question I'd ask barnes or just buy canon.
Hi Ton - I take photos for a living - so take what I say with that in mind.
For your budget youre very very close to getting a Canon 5D Mk1 used. That gets you a full frame sensor and some great flash control. But it will be used, and although much doesnt go wrong with them...... etc.
A full frame sensor means less DOF which is great for bike shots.
I gotta say though - I carry £30k worth of gear with me on my day job but bring a po*y wee panasonic out on my mtb. Not really to do with the money (I'm insured to hell) but to bring a decent camera, lens, tripod and flash means I dont have any room for water, tubes etc. But I mtb to get away from my job - you may be different!
Do you want SLR or compact.
Whilst the EP-1 is ace the auto focus is slow. The G11 is nice too but I believe it shares the same problem.
£700 will get you a lot of camera these days though but probably waaay too much to spend on a decent compact that will take "nice" pictures with minimal user interaction.
ton, I had a DSLR once, very rarely took it on the bike as it was too big, I would seriously look at the new olympus and panasonic models if your looking to lug it about a bit.
A full frame sensor means less DOF which is great for bike shots.
I also take photos for a living and usually do as you do, that is, I take a daft little Pentax Optio A30 out riding.
I'm struggling with the above quote a little - surely f1.8 on a full frame gives the same DOF as f1.8 on a crop sensor? If anything, the 1.6 crop (on my Nikons) would give shallower depth of field than a full frame sensor?
I'm sticking my neck out a bit here and am prepared to stand corrected....
EDIT: sorry - re advice, I'd second the reccomendation of the Canon G11 - THE best compact on the market - no shutter lag etc etc...
Hi User-Removed - I gotta disagree with you. All with the same field of view - a 120mm f2.8 of a large format camera has a dof of a gnats eyelash, on a medium format an 80mm f2.8 an eye ball, on 35mm a 2.8 50mm = 1/4 face and 35mm on a "compact" dslr - a full head (probably more) and on a compact (tiny sensor) nearly infiniate dof. I dont know the science behind it - that's my experience. I've got all types - its horses for courses for me.
I've got a G10 for biking and a 450D for everything else. The G10 or G11 its not too small and its not too big and they are pretty durable. It takes great photo's on full auto but its also got full manual control if you want to get creative. The flash is powerful, great for shots in the woods, and it can also take a full size flash. The lens is also pretty fast at the wide end for action shots.
There are other point and shoot alternatives, the G10/G11 are slightly bigger and in this case bigger is better.
I hear what you're saying csw, and having used all those formats, agree with what you say.
But.... If you use a 300mm lens on a 35mm camera (say) at 2.8, your DOF is pretty tiny. If you use a 20mm lens on the same camera, at the same apperture, your DOF is massive (comparitively).
So given that a crop sensor 'lengthens' the lens (i.e., your 300mm lens is now a 460mm lens, in essence*), I would expect a shallower DOF with a crop sensor. Does that make any sense? Perhaps the two factors cancel each other out?
Off to ephotozine to pick some geek-brains...
* I know this is a whole 'nother argument and that your lens ain't any longer, the image is just more cropped.
Hmmm I thought DOF was more closely related to aperture than sensor size - kind of off topic though. Assuming you don't need fast autofocus for action shots of people riding I'd get a compact rather than an SLR to carry on the bike - I don't want to lug round a kilo of camera and lenses. be fine for landscapes and distance shots of other riders.
How about 150 on a compact and 550 on a low end SLR with a decent lens.
A good picture is a good picture no matter what it's taken on.
If you're after a compact, the new Canon S90 is supposed to be a beaut. Great spec, high quality and compact.
If it was my money I'd be sorely tempted by the Panasonic GF1.
How are you with cameras do you know your way around them shutter speed aperture iso? If not than take a serious look at a D3000 they have a built in guide for people learning how to use a camera. You can pick them up for about £400 leaving you £300 to spend on another lens.
Or a D5000 as it does video too.
The suggestion to go for a 2nd hand 5D is a tempting one, however realistically if you're going to buy something like that you'd be wanting to spend at least another couple of grand on lenses (although being full-frame the 5D allows you to save a bit of cash on decent wide angle kit and "normal" zooms).
Something like a Nikon D90 + 18-105 VR lens, as suggested earlier would be a good starting point. Also if you're moving up from a point and shoot you'd probably be more than happy with any of the entry level cameras & kit lenses like the 50D mentioned above (even though the kit lenses aren't all that good usually).
Why not look at a video recorder like the VIO POV1. Small light weight and you can pull still shots off the video.
I would certainly make sure you've got money to spend on a good lens rather than blowing it all on a kit lens with an expensive body. A 'faster' lens (wider apperture, lower Fstop) will focus faster and the pictures will likely be sharper.
You could also get the lens second hand, they hold their value better than the bodies do.
And once you've got the camera, play with it a bit and then go on Seb Rogers' course, it's brilliant.
Just because you have £700 to spend, doesn't mean you HAVE TO spend £700.....
Personally, I'd only recommend an SLR if -
a) You're planning to get seriously into photography
and/or
b) You've reached the limits of a decent compact
because
c) An SLR is a pain in the butt to carry around
and
d) They need commitment to learn how to use them
IMO, it's pointless buying one, then just leaving it on auto. I'm no great snapper, but mine is rarely on auto these days. And if you do enjoy it, it's like bikes, you find yourself needing more kit, which makes c & d above worse! 😉
If a & b don't apply, get a really nice compact. 🙂
For your budget youre very very close to getting a Canon 5D Mk1 used. That gets you a full frame sensor and some great flash control. But it will be used, and although much doesnt go wrong with them...... etc.
Surely if he's planning to use it in a filthy environment (MTBing), and doesn't have much experience with SLRs, one (in)famous for dust on its sensor with no easy way of cleaning it possibly isn't the best option....
FWIW, I'd go for the G11, or maybe a 2nd hand G9 off ebay and a second hand low-mid dSLR and decent lens. If he wants to get into photography, simply spending £70 on a 'nifty fifty' as well as the kit lens would do wonders...
(But then that starts to exacerbate PP's points c & d)
You can indeed buy a used 5D for that kind of money but, as other shave said, the best camera is one that you carry with you on every ride and a whacking great SLR like that is just asking to be left behind.
I'd go for a smaller lightweight SLR like a Canon 500D or a decent compact - Powershot G11 or something similar (I'm not really up on compacts), unless you really are very serious about your photgraphy and you feel you've reached the limits of compacts.
I was using a 350D for years with an upgraded lens and had loads fo shots published off that - you don't always need the latest greatest kit to get some great pics.
If you're going to be doing riding with it size and weight should be considered. As some people have already said the micro four-thirds cameras (olympus ep-1 or panasonic gf1 in particular) are very small and light indeed. The new Canon G11 is similarly priced to these (ep1/gf1) but I can't see it offering enough over these or the older G10 which is being sold off far cheaper.
Also consider an olympus E420 with pancake lens. That's a very small DSLR albeit with a fixed focal. But a relatively cheap option.
Depth of field (DOF) does decrease with an increase in sensor size. However, this is purely because you have to get closer to the subject in order to fill the frame.
Whatever you do, don't blow it on the body and scrimp on the lens.
PeterPoddy / Zokes / Crazy Legs - I agree with you: if its for bringing it on a mtb - then a compact is the best (so long as you bring it with you). I'm not "up" on current models so I cant recommend a particular one. For me any DSLR on a bike is a bit of a pain due to their shape (with a lens sticking out) as much as anything.
The new Canon G11 is similarly priced to these (ep1/gf1) but I can't see it offering enough over these or the older G10 which is being sold off far cheaper.
Purportedly the G11 has much less noise, and therefore is much more usable at high ISO than the G10. I can't vouch for this, but as my 5DMk2 is hardly mountain bike friendly, I'm casually looking for a high-end compact myself at present. It's probably a result of Canon trying to squeeze less MPx onto the tiny sensor.
Purportedly the G11 has much less noise
Mainly due to much less megapixels. The 14MP G10 is now 10MP in the G11.
Incidently, the EP-1 can shoot well to an ISO of 3200.
I'll add to the Canon G-series praise. They're fantastic cameras - well built, take good pics, give lots of control if you want it and crucially are small enough to actually carry with you always. It's no good seeing a stunning view and not being able to get a shot because you left the huge SLR at home!
DSLRs are great - IF you do photography for the sake of photography. They just dominate everything otherwise - you have to plan your packing around carrying this lump of camera and lens(es) and flash around with you. Which is exactly why I sold mine - it was ace on a NZ holiday where it lived in the boot and I could grab shots from the side of the road. Once home, it didn't get a lot of use. My G9 goes just about everywhere though.
c) An SLR is a pain in the butt to carry around
really ? I think you're trying to put it in the wrong place PP 🙂 For a fact I rarely notice mine when I'm riding, it's just there when I want it (and I always do)
d) They need commitment to learn how to use them
what, you mean a bit like riding a bike ? Perhaps you follow the Homer Simpson philosophy "If it's hard don't try" ?
Mainly due to much less megapixels. The 14MP G10 is now 10MP in the G11.
Ah, the megapixel myth. Unless you're making poster-sized prints or doing large crops, 6 mpx is more than sufficient, especially with the 'quality' of lens you'll have on any compact. If you don't believe me, go and have a look for pics taken with the lowly 2 mpx iPhone on Flickr, then compare to those taken with a 14mpx G10. You will probably be quite surprised!
As for the EP1 @ ISO3200, well, I guess it's OK at post-card size, but then so's pretty much everything else....
The point about the less megapixels is not to perpetuate the myth of the more megapixels the better. It was to highlight [i]how[/i] Canon had improved sensor noise which you state to be a significant improvement over the older G10.
It's fairly obvious 14MP from a compact sized sensor is OTT when larger sensor sizes were at the 12MP to 14MP mark. Consequently, the G10 suffered from noise at ISOs of 200 and above. The designers of the G11 just went for the quick win. And there is nothing wrong with that but it isn't a significant improvement. It's an admission of "we got it wrong".
it's OK at post-card size
EP1?? It's a DSLR sensor in a compact body. It's pretty much an E620 DSLR minus the mirror and pentaprism shoe-horned into a tiny body. With excellent noise reduction, interchangeable lens, useable high ISO, weighs no more than a G11, costs the same as a G11. What is there not to like?
It's a DSLR sensor in a compact body... What is there not to like?
if you'll pardon me, a "DSLR sensor" without the reflex optics is just a sensor - and don't get me started on the dubious ergonomics of arms-length camera operation without a viewfinder...
sfb. Pedant as always.
I've seen an LCD viewfinder can be attached to the GF1 and a direct view one on the EP1.
Not as good as proper SLR viewfinders but liveview is all the rage these days!
really ? I think you're trying to put it in the wrong place PP For a fact I rarely notice mine when I'm riding, it's just there when I want it (and I always do)
I have carried mine on my chest like you do until I got my flash last week. That's now impractical, so it all goes on my back, and I'm looking at better ways than just stuffing it all in a CamelBak HAWG, without a case... 🙂
what, you mean a bit like riding a bike ? Perhaps you follow the Homer Simpson philosophy "If it's hard don't try" ?
Yes you're right there of course, but lots of people don't really have the inclinaton to learn like you or I do, and IMO a compact would be just as good, and more practical. That's all I'm saying 🙂
sfb. Pedant as always.
no, I think it's a valid point. The sensor doesn't make the DSLR, it's the mechanics and optics, and taking those away is a huge, significant difference, not a trivial distinction
I've seen an LCD viewfinder can be attached to the GF1 and a direct view one on the EP1.
pay extra for something very nasty ??
nuff said:
[url= http://a.img-dpreview.com/news/0906/Olympus/EP1/17mm-people-2.jp g" target="_blank">http://a.img-dpreview.com/news/0906/Olympus/EP1/17mm-people-2.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
Christ, I agree with SFB! How on earth you're supposed to use a decent camera and hold it steady at arms length is a mystery to me
And just because you can shoot at ISO3200 doesn't mean you should. The tiny 4/thirds sensor is not very good with noise compared to a full frame, none of them are. Even the D700 or 5D full frame can be grainy over ISO400 if you print big enough. Yes high ISOs can get you photos you otherwise wouldn't have managed, but MPX counts are really fairly meaningless as you can't blow them up to any size because of the noise. Add noise sharpening and you lose sharpness. Ultimately, good photography needs good light, and fancy pretend-slrs really won't get you much further than a decent compact for quick shots in low light. An expensive SLR is a different matter, but as discussed, a 2nd hand 5D is not the most convenient bit of kit for riding with...
zokes what are you on about? You don't seem to be able to write a coherent argument. Either that or you have a problem with the comprehension.
I've never mentioned a four-thirds sized sensor in comparison to a full-sized sensor. I don't think any sensor compares well against a full frame sensor in terms of noise. Instead, I've made the comparison of a G11 against an EP1.
And yes - [i]fancy pretend-slrs[/i] - will get you further than a compact. Why not? Read the reviews. Make an informed statement.
The sensor doesn't make the DSLR, it's the mechanics and optics
Actually, I'd say its just the mechanics.
How about a panasonic G1, can be had for under £700 with 2 lenses, this will give you a viewfinder, 3" swivel screen, 28-400mm coverage, compact body etc...
Quality is good, lenses are very good for the money and the whole thing is compact.
The sensor doesn't make the DSLR, it's the mechanics and opticsActually, I'd say its just the mechanics.
by optics I meant mirror/pentaprism/eyepiece
zokes what are you on about? You don't seem to be able to write a coherent argument. Either that or you have a problem with the comprehension.
the trouble with this kind of comment is that it may be your own comprehension at fault 🙂
barnes, have you stopped sulking then.
so what is your choice....please
the trouble with this kind of comment is that it may be your own comprehension at fault
Maybe. But definitely not.
(Again) My sis in law is pro photographer in NZ, has DSLR's and large formats, lenses coming out her ears, but the camera she carries with her all the time and on hols is a Canon G10.
Another friend is 'semi pro' (is sells pics, but not main living, does weddings, events etc), and again despite having a good DSLR and lenses, the G6(?) she has seems to go everywhere with her, so takes more of her shots.
My father in law just bought a G11 and its a super bit of kit, takes ace pictures and just goes everywhere with him.
I'd go for an SLR because of the optical view finder personally. It's pretty hard to shoot moving stuff without one.
As for which brand... well I went Sony mainly for in body stabilisation. But I imagine you'd be happy with any dSLR. If size is an issue Olympus might be worth a look.
so what is your choice....please
I wasn't sulking Tony! If you care to buy/borrow a suitable Nikon lens I can lend you my old D200 body to try out if you want?
simon, i am going looking for a camera tonight, i will keep that in mind.
cheers.
Im downsizing from a D80 to Panny GF1, want some thing light to carry around with me, as opposed to lugging the D80 and assorted kit every where.
Would'nt recommend carrying a dSlr on a bike as mentioned, they dont like conditions that are too muddy/dusty/wet etc.
Like the look of the panny, plus it'll shot HD video as well so no need to carry D80 and a video camera.
Just need to sort out pricing for D80 and get it advertised.
I've got a D80 with 18-135 kit lens and to be honest it's quite bulky for lugging around while riding.
Mate has the D60 with 18-105VR & although it doesn't look THAT much smaller, it feels quite a lot more manageable on a ride.
Have you thought about how you were going to carry it? I bought a Think Tank Digital Holster (the smallest 10 model) and the chest harness.
The holster comes with waterproof cover & loads of other bits - and the chest harness is pretty indiscreet, and plenty adjustable to get it set-up how you want it. You're looking at £50 for the lot - well worth it, I reckon as you can have the camera out & ready in about 5 secs.
For biking/mucking about = Canon G9/10/11 (whichever you think best in the trade off between brand new technology and bargain price for last year's model.)
For anything else, as couldawoulda said, Canon 5D Mk1. I have one and *have* used it on the bike, but not off-road. It's just too big and heavy for taking on rides, but is a great camera nonetheless for everything else.
@Stumpy; another vote for the Think Tank stuff. It's top quality, and does the trick of keeping an SLR stable, well protected and dry.
Still wouldn't want my 5D on my chest on a rocky ride though... YMMV.
SFB
For someone who uses their fancy pentprism DSLR with amazing sensor on Program mode you don't half talk a lot of twoddle.
SfB is totally ignoring superior quality cameras without mirrors or pentaprisms, that have taken some of the most iconic photos in the hands of some of the world's greatest photographers, ie Leica's. Or are you saying a Leica is crap 'cos it's not an SLR? I truly hope you're not, otherwise you leave yourself open to even more ridicule than usual. The Panasonic GL1 is a stunning camera, perfect for the sort of use Ton wants it for. The additional viewfinder that you maintain is crap is totally electronic and driven from the hotshoe, and is no different to the sort of viewfinder found on a classic Leica, other than it carries more shooting info. I stopped taking photos years ago because my Contax 139's were bulky and one got damaged carrying it on the bike. I only started again five years ago with a CoolPix 5200, then a Lumix TZ3, which has taken thousands of pics. I recently bought a Nikon D60, but I truly lust after that Panny, it's the perfect camera for me, compact, unobtrusive for use at gigs, swappable lenses, DSLR sized sensor, what's not to like? I'm almost tempted to sell a bike to fund one. Ton, look at the GL1, I think it ticks every box on your wants list.
Or are you saying a Leica is crap 'cos it's not an SLR?
don't be silly and put ridiculous words into my mouth!
You can take fantastic shots with a friggin box Brownie. It's just harder.
The additional viewfinder that you maintain is crap is totally electronic and driven from the hotshoe, and is no different to the sort of viewfinder found on a classic Leica
please stop saying Leica when it isn't one. I have yet to see a good electronic v/f - even my D300's live view is laggy/jaggy compared to the 0.5nS delay of the mirror path. And wouldn't a Leica viewfinder be a) optical b)rangefinder ?
I'm not talking about [b]Art[/b] but practical everyday photography. If you're happy with simpler, less well specified (and lighter) cameras, all well and good, I never said they were rubbish, only that I find the sheer handlability of a proper DSLR hard to resist, particularly if you want to get a shot in difficult conditions.
For someone who uses their fancy pentprism DSLR with amazing sensor on Program mode you don't half talk a lot of twoddle.
I don't see the correlation. If you have time to fiddle with the settings then bully for you. Most of the time I don't so I'm content for the electronics to make the guesses for me - I can always bracket if I need to in much less time. Also I'm slightly aphasic (or whatever) and I know from long experience that if I adjust the settings I instantly forget that I have and take another 50 shots at something silly so it's best not to try.
I think you've got to look at the reality of the situation. I took my DSLR (Oly E420 with pancake) out on a group ride at Afan. I thought I could get some arty shots or some action shots along the route. The truth is I/we were going along at such a pace - if I we had to keep stopping for every photo-taking op. it would have annoyed everyone.
I should have just brought my high-end compact which could have done just as well for the pictures I took.
Remember - you're out riding and not on a Seb Rogers photoshoot.
And that's why I've pointed towards micro four-thirds. Smaller, lighter and capable cameras - that's what I would look for in a riding camera.
A compromise? Yes. But it's undeniably a very good one.
I should have just brought my high-end compact which could have done just as well for the pictures I took.
do you mean to shoot as you ride ?
Remember - you're out riding and not on a Seb Rogers photoshoot.
all my rides are sfb photoshoots 🙂 The chest pack means it takes a few seconds to get the camera out and ready to shoot.
HTTP404:
zokes what are you on about? You don't seem to be able to write a coherent argument. Either that or you have a problem with the comprehension.I've never mentioned a four-thirds sized sensor in comparison to a full-sized sensor. I don't think any sensor compares well against a full frame sensor in terms of noise. Instead, I've made the comparison of a G11 against an EP1.
And yes - fancy pretend-slrs - will get you further than a compact. Why not? Read the reviews. Make an informed statement.
The irony being your username is an error for something that isn't there. How very apt...
Read reviews? Great! I know, I'll believe what someone paid to review a camera by the manufacturer, and pretty much just repeats the spec sheet in prose says 🙄
FWIW, having read a few reviews of these, the performance is no better than the G11 at high ISO. Not what the reviews say, but what the pictures taken in the reviews say. Having seriously considered the EP-1, and having handled one in the shop (with a view to also being able to use my old OM lenses on it), it's pretty much impossible to hold steady with anything zoomish at arms length. You therefore have to bump the ISO up to compensate for camera shake. The G11 has an optical viewfinder, is much easier to hold steady, and therefore doesn't need to go as high ISO. To top it off, the G11 does have a small internal flash - where's that on the EP-1? If you have to carry a flash too, you may as well just go for a real DSLR with a pop-up one!
Bottom line is it looks like a lovely toy, because that's what it is - a toy. You're very limited on the lenses you can attach, simply from a holding it steady point of view. Whilst it's undoubtedly got access to better lenses than the one on the G11, how often are you ever going to reproduce prints of a size where you can see that?
You can have the best camera in the world, but if it's on the shelf at home when you get the opportunity for the best picture, then it's useless. For the OP, a very good compact sounds like the best option, unless like SFB, you're happy lugging an SLR case on the front of your camelbak. If you're going for an SLR, get a proper one, which will be infinitely more flexible than the pen-style ones that seem to be cropping up for no discernible reason. Alternatively, get something like the G9 (arguably better than the G10, and lots cheaper than the G11), and spend the rest on going somewhere to take great pictures!
Zokes? a name seen on many a high-end mountain bike...
Whilst I applaud your camera technique - I do assume you have the full use of both arms and both elbow joints therefore allowing you to negate the use of full arms length.
You therefore have to bump the ISO up to compensate for camera shake
erm.. in-camera stabilization or a steady hand? Take your pick. The EP1 has both and the GF1 has the latter.
I don't see why you would try and fit old OM lenses onto a Micro 4/3 body? That's like buying a Scott Scale and kitting it out for full-on downhill.
FWIW, I rarely use a long zoom lens. So won't have the troubles you talk about. The older 35mm lenses are far larger and heavier than the four-thirds lens. Which in turn are larger and heavier than the micro four-thirds. Which would understandably adversely affect the camera's handing.
The GF1 has the advantage of built-in flash. The EP1 has the image stabilization and some very good noise reduction.
I'm not disagreeing with you either. For the OP a high-end compact is the answer - the latest generation of high-end compact.
Your argument about better optics but never seeing the benefit smacks in the face of all things photographic. You should aim for the best optics possible and then bring all other factors into the equation. Never ignore optics.
Compact optical viewfinders are fine. But they have their pitfalls also. Ricoh GX200, Panasonic LX3, Sigma DP2 all great high-end cameras. But guess what? They all don't have optical viewfinders.
What you do is fail to mention the advantages of composing a shot on the screen. For instance, the GF1 has true DOF preview in addition to shutter blur preview.
Handling like a compact but operating akin to an SLR with a DSLR sized sensor (:-) to sfb) is all too good. And is worth investigating for the OP.
Zokes? a name seen on many a high-end mountain bike...
About 12 years ago when Marzocchi made them, before selling the brand name, yes, they were...
The older 35mm lenses are far larger and heavier than the four-thirds lens. Which in turn are larger and heavier than the micro four-thirds. Which would understandably adversely affect the camera's handing.
Really? [url= http://www.flickr.com/groups/eos-manual-lenses/discuss/72157621284384558/ ]they look huge...[/url]
in-camera stabilization or a steady hand?
Steady hand and IS, which is what you get with a camera you don't have to hold away from your body
All I'm saying is the EP-1 just seems to be a very expensive fashion statement of a toy. For the money you can get a far superior proper dSLR, or a top-end compact, both of which you can hold properly, frame your shots better, and just generally offer better value for money.
All I'm saying is the EP-1 just seems to be a very expensive fashion statement of a toy.
The GF1 and EP1 are both allegedly very good toys.
The Canon G-series are also very good toys that have also sold well on the back of many a "paid" review.
For me, micro four-thirds is a little prohibitive at its current price point and the new G11 is not too far off the said fashion statements.
G10 offers value for money but if I could afford to push the boat out a bit or have an inkling for a more expansive and dare I say creative system ....