I bought a rear wheel recently with a bolt-through hub. I expected it to come with an axle (much like a 'normal' wheel would come with a QR) but it didn't.
So I'm after an axle that's strong, light and cheap (and gorgeous).
Actually, is there anything to chose between bolt-through axles?
DT Swiss RWS is one and Superstar components do one as well.
EDIT: NC-17 also do one (from CRC).
My second DT RWS in a row has just lunched the stupid plastic splines and although they warranty these I don't think I'll bother again. I'm going to try the Superstar one to see if it is any cop otherwise I'm going to go back to normal QR
The splines are plastic?!
I would avoid the DT to be honset, they look nice but cost a fortune and I broke the plastic lever off mine. Used a normally bolted axel after that, sorted 8)
Just seen that Superstar one, at that price you can't go wrong!
You need to distinguish between 'bolt through' and 'bolt on'. In 10mm format, rear hubs are usually 'bolt on', which means that the axle itself is still integrated with the hub body but is threaded at the ends. 10mm hex bolts then screw into the axle and clamp the drop outs. This arrangement allows the axle to be stronger (I think).
Bolt through as you describe it, is more commonly seen on 12mm hub axles, where the axle passes through the hub shell and screws directly into the drive side drop out. The Maxle and Maxle Lite systems are for 12mm rear hubs.
I haven't used the DT RWS 10mm through system, but I personally think it's a bit of a gimick that doesn't offer anything in terms of strength or rigidity. But that is just my opinion; it's not validated by anything.
10mm bolt on hubs can be more secure, but again probably aren't any more rigid. I have cracked a 10mm QR Chris King axle in the past and replaced it with their heavy duty bolt on axle and found that that was much stronger, i.e. it didn't break.
You need to distinguish between 'bolt through' and 'bolt on'. In 10mm format, rear hubs are usually 'bolt on', which means that the axle itself is still integrated with the hub body but is threaded at the ends.
I'm pretty sure it's bolt-through - there are no threads in the end of the hub.
NC-17 also do one (from CRC).
Grrr.... out of stock.
Actually were talking: Bolt-up (threaded bolts x2), Bolt though (x1 with nuts) and 10mm QR (DT Swiss RWS, SSC etc)
I got DT Swiss and SSC - the former are very light but expensive and have nackered the teeth and have managed to fix the handle with a nut and screw though the handle and axle) - I have only had the SSC for a week so? Is def much heavier so depends if if need to be a weight thing.
Als if you dont need a QR try a bolt through (big bolt and one nut 🙂
I received my SSC 10mm in red yesterday - loads burley than I anticipated. Now just need to work out how to do the hub conversion.
@ carbon337
http://www.cyclistno1.co.uk/features/maintenance/hope-pro-ii-rear-hub-service.htm
Its my service article but just replace the axle and end caps with the 10mm Kit from hope 🙂
I havent had a probelm with my DT RWS in 2 years, I can tell a bit of a difference, more so on my steel HT on off camber fasty bumpy stuff. Couldnt really tell when I used one on my Heckler. Expensive though.
foxy - thats excellent cheers - I have the kit just was worried about cocking it up by not using the right tools.
They def make the job easier IMO carbon and for £20 they last for eveer (just give them a grease before putting away - stops then rusting ) 🙂
THREAD BUMP: I'm looking for a 10mm bolt through axle. Bike is a 4x hardtail with horizontal dropouts so the axle needs to be done up very tight to stop it moving. I am currently using a bit of high tensile steel M10 threaded bar with 2 17mm nuts on the end but it weighs alot. I'm looking for something lighter but not with a QR lever or DT thingie. Does anybody make a 10mm ali axle that might be suitable?
Cheers!