[Closed] Recipe: Kaffenback + SKS Chromoplastic mudguards

I had some similar issues with the roadrat. Made a spacer from a felt tip pen body and used a longer bolt as the chain stay is bridgeless. Seem to remember making an extension for the metal hanger!

Rear problem: no "normal" hole for calliper brakes on the frame, so nothing for hanger to attach to.
Rear solution: drill a hole in the mudguard so it can be bolted directly into the threaded hole in the seat stay wishbone

That's exactly what that threaded hole is for!

Front problem: the metal hanger thing attached to the mudguard is too short for the fork

Make up a small bracket with a couple of holes in. One to bolt the bracket to the fork-crown, the other to bolt to the mudguard hanger. Put it together using stainless steel bolts and nylocs and forget about it.

I cut, filed and drilled out a bit of galvanized joist hanger when I fitted the guards to my partners bike, but any local stainless / metalwork fabricators will have something in their recycling bin, and will probably make it for you too for a nominal amount if you've not got the tools.

Or just drill holes in the mudguards (or melt holes with a soldering iron) then attach them with zipties.
That's what I've done on my Pompino, works fine. Less rattly than the standard brackets.

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My old Kaffenback, with mudguards. I just pushed a screwdriver through at the wishbone and put a bolt in there. Can't remeber the rest being an issue.

Drill the mudguards. I attached my raceblades that way as it only took removing the wheel to unbolt them if I wanted. You'll need something to extend the bracket for the front so it sits close.. The Chomoplastics some with a chainstay bridge bracket that you can use.

I put cantis on mine, partly to avoid these issues - whenever I've seen pictures of any with mini-vs and proper mudguards I've wondered how there was enough clearance. I have to admit that cantis don't exactly go on perfectly though. You have to stick a hanger on the seat clamp at the back, and at the front the cable fouls the gear cables (because the braze-ons are on the headtube instead of the downtube) which can be annoying. Still a very nice bike to ride though, especially for the price.

+1 to what Duncan has written.

As a spacer on my Kaff's wishbone I used the female bit of a chain ring bolt. Tidy and with a box of them extremely adjustable. I spaced the lowest rear mount out from the frame with a shorter one.
can't comment on the front as I just driled and tapped the from of the original steel fork.

Mini V's on mine plus whopping great SKS's jammned right up against the fork crown. The cable does clear and even the rubber nodder thing doesn't touch the gaurd.

I just drilled the rear SKS on mine, it fitted fine with no spacers. I cut a notch in the front to clear the mini V. No swearing required.

Eventually the rivets that hold the brackets to the mudguards corroded and had to be replaced with zip ties, then after 5 years and 8,000 miles the rear cracked where I drilled it.

Put a pair of Tortec ones from SJS on there this year. Same fitting issues, but these have got reflector stripes for added side visibility.

Mini-V's plus Vavert guards = slight rubbing on the front when the brake is applied, but not enough to cause a problem...

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No issues at all on the back - drilled a hole through the guard and the plastic mounting bracket that came with it, added a rubber grommet as a spacer, and bolted it to the hole in the wishbone...

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I used an old reflector bracket to make an extension for the fork bracket for my mudguard. Various long bolts and washers used elsewhere.

On an old MTB with a 440mm fork, i hammered a SFN into the bottom and used a long bolt screwed into that to get the 'guard in position as well.

I drilled a hole through my rear mudguard to attach to the wishbone, lasted about three years before the mudguard fractured and broke in half across there.