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Trying to to understand peeps preferences for rebound. Currently have my front and back set somewhere in the middle.
Is there a school of thought about where rebound should be set for front and back, on an all mountain bike.
I heard that on harder ground you should slow your rebound down and vice versa ? ❓
I prefer as fast as I can get it without feeling that I'm being flung off as the suspension extends again, and the setting differs according to temperature, IME, as the viscosity of the oil changes.
It depends on the kind of terrain really. Most of my riding is done in relatively gentle chilterns, I can run the rebound a bit slower than when I go somewhere like the peak
I like my rebound pretty slow. Whenever one of my mates rides my bike he always comments on it, but I hate that feeling of the fork kicking back and the shock trying to buck you off.
When setting it up, I just started at a 'faster' speed and gradually slowed it down until I didn't notice the suspension anymore. I figure that the point where you don't notice it doing it's thing, must be about right; it just gets on with it.
I generally set it at mid point then change it to suit the terrain. There isnt one simple setting for all, especially where I ride locally, so you just have to experiment and adjust the damping to suit the trail and your riding.
I prefer as fast as I can get it without feeling that I'm being flung off as the suspension extends again
Spot on. That's the way it should be.
When setting it up, I just started at a 'faster' speed and gradually slowed it down until I didn't notice the suspension anymore. I figure that the point where you don't notice it doing it's thing, must be about right; it just gets on with it.
And that's the right way to set it up. If it feels harsh, slow the rebound down bit by bit until it doesn't.
As fast as possible without it turning into a pogo stick.
Cy once very kindly lent me his Cotic for a ride, we're the same size frame but to get the forks set up for me I had to let a lot of air out and turn the rebound dial all the way round cos he sets his up for really slow rebound.
Personal preference.
this week? front and rear rebound as fast as possible and with the temps its still not fast enough.
if fox make snow mobile shocks that can obviously work really well in the cold, what can they offer for cold riding conditions on bikes?
even if it meant a bigger sized shock to hold a bigger range of adjustment, im sure a lot of folk wouldnt mind the extra weight if it meant a shock that works well in under -4c conditions.
[i]I prefer as fast as I can get it without feeling that I'm being flung off as the suspension extends again[/i]
Usually set something like that and not touched. On a very rocky descent in the Alps though I had to slow the rebound on the rear to its maximum setting, otherwise I was bucked over the bars. So, yes terrain dependant.
A good setup is one that you dont notice working, it just does its job. I used to run rebound quite fast but seem to prefer slowing it down a little of late, is it age related?
I have the rear on the slower side and the front on the faster side. Probably completely "wrong" but thats how I like it. The faster front seems to help me in hops (I wont say jumps; it wouldnt be accurate)
I slowed the rear down when trying to practice manuals and wheelies and kept it that way.
I set mine up basically to keep the front up and me back due to an irrational fear of going over the bars
have the rear on the slower side and the front on the faster side.
spot on I'd say, and exactly as per the advice in the Tim Flooks dvd. 8)
Forks - pretty fast. 3 or 4 clicks from fastest.
Rear shock - pretty slow - 3 or 4 clicks from slowest.
spot on I'd say, and exactly as per the advice in the Tim Flooks dvd
Tell me more...I have seen Dirtschool and fundamentals. Need to treat myself for Xmas 🙂
it's not a new one, I think it's called 'fundamentals' or similar, has a variety of setup stuff, loads of workshops vids and a long suspension setup bit by TF. Quite a good dvd - I got it a couple of yrs ago
I have seen some of fundamentals..most Of the time it had me thinking . "Oh god I am so poo at this sport" so I never got the urge to go out and buy it (too advanced)
Might buy it now though; I love all the workshop stuff
I read somewhere that you should hit a square edged bump, like a curb, so it's absorbed but there's no kick through the bars for front forks. Don't ride rear suss but I reckon a bit softer so the back end sticks to the riding surface.
i use slow on the rear and fast up front. but both are set up firm
not anymore. the new owner only weights about 6 stone with his shell suit on :O/
so that it absorbs impact and isn't a pogo stick, also run with about 30% sag ('zocchi 66's, on a hardtail)
I setup my bikes on the slower side. Front - stand along side the bike and press down hard on the forks and try and lift the wheel off the ground quickly. Standard advice is have the round set so it extends the forks at roughly the same speed as you lift the wheel. I set mine alittle slower. For the rear I then set the rebound so it feels slower than the front when I stand on the bike and compress both ends hard with a bunny hop.
It does depend alot on the damper and I do twiddle the forks a couple clicks faster if I'm riding fast rocky trails. In my experience of riding and adjusting suspension, keeping to fast rebound so the ride is smooth can be great but fast rebound can knock you off at the limit of grip on a poor surface. Within reason, slightly slower rebound will perform much better on the limit of grip only to the detriment of comfort. I also find that slower rebound works much better when pumping terrain or using most of the travel in berms.
I like my forks to rebound quite quickly. Suppose it gets rid of the 'sloppy' feeling you get when wollowing through the travel. Feels a bit more precise when they rebound quickly.