[Closed] Reba's - Increasing Travel

[url= https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B1AoGIWBz4H1M2E5ZTc0MTItNjM4NS00YjBiLWEwZDgtMjEyYTQ5NWZlMjc5&hl=en ]CLICKY![/url]

🙂

Search the forum: PeterPoddy has a step by step picture guide that he's linked to several times. Otherwise download the service manual from SRAM, it has the details too (but less easy to follow).

EDIT: See 😀

i started a thread similar to this- http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/convert-rebas-100-120mm ,might be usefull,although mine can't be adjusted.

Is there not some super easy, oil-less method of doing it, where you just release all pressure from the air springs, undo the top cap on the airspring leg, slowly push the fork down to reveal the internals, then remove the relevant spacer?

I think the SRAM method is a little labour intensive and would require replacement oil and all sorts of circlip pliers etc...

I did it and it makes a suprising amount of difference to the feel of them...lovely forks though and reet neece on me steel hardtail with 120mm at front...

Is there not some super easy, oil-less method of doing it, where you just release all pressure from the air springs, undo the top cap on the airspring leg, slowly push the fork down to reveal the internals, then remove the relevant spacer

I've heard of this, but I've never seen it explained properly, because there's no way the piston will pop out of the top of the fork without releasing it from the base of the leg, and you run the risk of damaging the seals on the top cap threads too......

It's no more than a 15-20 min job to do it properly and service the air seals whilst you're at it, too.

I was about to say that you can just compress the fork until the piston pokes out the top, but of course it wouldn't because there isn't enough travel in the fork... 😳

Please ignore, obviously I've never actually done this myself...

You can do it without removing the lower, did mine the other night, you just need a long rod to push the inners out of the top from the bottom air valve hole, but as PP says, the threads come fairly close to touching the seals.

Oh, and my OEM Reba SL's from Merlin dont have any spacers in so its 100mm or less.

you just need a long rod to push the inners out of the top from the bottom air valve hole, but as PP says, the threads come fairly close to touching the seals

Cheers, I thought so.

So, basically, the only thing you're not doing is undoing the bolt from the other leg, and then you're undoing the top of the chamber rather than the bottom. Seems like more faff than it's worth to me, TBH. You might as well pop the legs off, and clean the seals and foams at the same time, and put new oil in whist you're at it 🙂

Basically sort of yes, let the air out of both chambers, take the top cap off, loosen the negative air bolt and tap it the same as your way so its inside the fork, then push a rod inside said hole and the whole assembly pops out of the top of the forks, do what you have to, and put it back together.

Plus tragic's method sort of avoids having to buy and measure out new oil, which for the terminally lazy (like me) or someone with a very new set of forks, might be handy (assuming you keep the forks horizontal while working on them, or tilted a degree or two down the way so you don't loose oil out of the top or bottom).

There was a how-to with pitcures for the 'simple' method over on mtbr, but I could never get it to work for me. PP's one worked great, probably just took 5mins extra.

13thfloormonk

However you do it you will still loose most of the oil as when you push the assembly out it pushes the oil out thats in the upper part of the leg.

Cheers guys, will give this a go over the weekend.

I just found this thread after searching for how to alter the travel on my 29" Reba forks.
Thanks for the link, Peter.
As my frame was designed around a rigid or short travel fork, I want to decrease the travel though, so the next question is, where do I buy the spacers from ?
And just to clarify, shortening the travel by fitting a longer spacer will decrease the length of the fork when fully extended without affecting the length when fully compressed. Have I got that the right way round ?

A bit more searching and I found this.

So, I want part number 14, All travel spacer kit. Where do I get it ?
If no spacers gives 115mm, 1 spacer 100mm and 2 spacers 85mm, is there any reason why I can't run 3 spacers for 70mm travel ?

I have some Reba Worldcups which have the MASSIVE 80mm of travel, can these be made to 100mm then?

Spacers are available from tftuned.

OK, thanks.
Couldn't see them on the website, I'll give them a call.

Eddie Fiola - Member
I have some Reba Worldcups which have the MASSIVE 80mm of travel, can these be made to 100mm then?

Yes.

13thfloormonk - Member
Is there not some super easy, oil-less method of doing it, where you just release all pressure from the air springs, undo the top cap on the airspring leg, slowly push the fork down to reveal the internals, then remove the relevant spacer?

I think the SRAM method is a little labour intensive and would require replacement oil and all sorts of circlip pliers etc...

Yes. I did it that way - get lots of oil on the uppers threads, and carefully push the piston up thorugh the top of the fork. dead easy, thought you do need to release the piston from the base of the fork to get it out.

I ddi it the pikey way cos I didn't have any circlip pliers!

If you do it that way the small amount of oil in both the the positive and negative chambers will escape, meaning that you may end up with premature seal failures (compounded by the fact you pushed the main seal past the threads).
Also, your semi-bath oil will get out of the lower leg from the bottom if you not careful.

Just get some oil, some circlip pliers from a diy shop and do it properly - they are only a few of quid.

i've got some recon race set at 100mm can i make these 120mm?