Recently got a Park CC3.2 chain-checker, described as 'go, no-go' = great.
But the .75% side slots into a couple of parts of my chain, but not the rest of it !
So...
GO
...or...
NO-GO ?
Help ?
The 75 is for alloy cassettes. The .1 is for steel. However, they give a false positive so when mine drop in on the second side, I use a 600mm steel rule to check wear for 0.5% stretch before I bin it.
The 75 is for alloy cassettes. The .1 is for steel
i did not know that cheers
it's for checking wear on the chain surely... nothing to do with cassettes, alloy/steel or otherwise?!
Those types of chain wear indicators measure roller wear, which has nothing to do with chain wear really. You can get new chains where the 'no-go' fits apparently.
Just use a ruler on the pins.
Surely only the wear on the two rollers at either end of the tool are included in the measurement ?
.75 means new chain
1.0 means new chain & cassette... i normally get 2-3 chains per cassette
this is how I have been doing it for years
you can get PC 971 chains on ebay for £13-15 & XT cassettes £45 so its no big deal
So, using a ruler what should the measurements be at new and at swap time? I've got a few chains and matching cassettes and I'm wondering if they just need binning or have another winter left in them.
Also, just gone 10 speed on one bike, so swapping chains is cheaper than cassette too, so what should I swap at?
Ta!
Each link is half inch. Measure over the longest length possible. New chain is needed when stretch is 0.5%.
This is why I only use the rohloff tool to tell me when I need to start checking with the steel rule.
The 75 is for alloy cassettes. The .1 is for steel
They measure chains, not cassettes surely? And anyway hardly anyone uses alloy cassettes, they're rubbish, solely for putting on scales, 99% of cassettes are steel, or at the very most ti (half and half for XTR/Dura Ace).
£54 for the Shimano tool that according to the pardo link is the only one that measures properly! It'd be a long time before that pays for itself in longer cassette life.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=23263
I'm just going by the instructions for my rohloff tool. No one seems to be able to offer a reasonable explanation as to what the A and S stand for on the tool.
Sorry to dig this up again, just looking at whether or not my chain needs replacing although don't feel I've done the mileage yet. I use a ruler but was looking at getting a tool. Bought a Park CC3.2 for my old man which I think is adequate but is it worth the extra for a Park CC-2?
Taff, are you trying to find out if the chain is worn out or just weather it's getting near to a performance effecting stage?. If it runs perfectly fine then I would personally leave it a bit longer, but if your tool says change it and you are keen on keeping your bike running perfectly then change it.
If you are trying to get your monies worth of chain and cassette the two easiest indicators without tools...
- Slipping under pressure
- Or stick it on the outer ring and pull the chain away from the teeth, if it clears or is almost clearing the teeth then it's generally worn out. The slippage is the chain rising above the teeth under pressure until it doesn't have enough purchase and slips.
Both are quite crude ways but it does the job if you are trying to get your monies worth. Running worn chains to the bitter end will wear chainrings quicker however.
Fibre - I don't think the chain is worn because it doesn't slip at all even in the mud. It was replaced at some point last year [middle ring, cassette & chain] BUT I noticed yesterday that the top of my outer ring which hasn't been changed for some years is a bit like a ninja's throwing star. I wouldn't habe thought it was an issue if it wasn't for this. MIddle rings is still pretty perfect it's just the outer, had some concerns that maybe it's had an affect on the rst of the drive although unnlikely given the amount of time spent in that ring in comparison with the middle.
I don't think the chain is worn because it doesn't slip at all even in the mud
It won't slip though, that's the point, even at greater than 1 percent wear, but try a new cassette with it and it'll be all over the shop, and so will your front chainrings.
Thats the saving, by using a chain wear gauge, not just cassettes, but chainrings as well.
I just run the whole lot into the ground (to the point the chain slips constantly) and replace the lot in a oner, I run 2x8 and a new cassette, 2 rings and a chain is cheaper than the price of 3 chains.
I run 2x9 although I've just put a 8year old granny ring on again for the winter. I think I've used it about 3 times during that time so think that's pretty cost effective. Just measured the chain and it's not quite 25.5mm for 10links but I'm going to order a wear indicator anyway just to double check but think my chain could do with replacing now. If it slips then it will just reinforce my mind more to buy a new bike over the next couple of months rather than next summer[ancient forks, brakes & wheels].