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Or the [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=31891 ]lightweight maintenance free[/url] version 🙂
[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=31892 ]cheaper, better, lighter, and [b]actually[/b] maintenance free...
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Doesn't have the same functionality tho 😉cheaper, better, lighter, and actually maintenance free...
Don't really see the point of these seatpost's without a handlebar remote TBH, I have a GD with the remote and it's brilliant, being able to drop the saddle on the fly really is the dogs danglies... for those who knock it, I'm guessing they've never really tried it? Or don't ride variable terrain where it pays to drop your saddle at times?
That is cheap now if you could only get spares.
DONK If I did not have one you would not have the opprotunity to overtake me ...watch me crash etc ...they do have a use
PS Got some silcone grease you want some?
EDIT: yes DONK minces around on the flat without ever adjusting his saddle ...well spotted you have clealry seen him ride then 🙄
nope, haven't seen him ride, is he really a gnar hardcore type chappie? or more a XC mincer extreme lite freerider? 🙂
All I'm saying is I like my GD, it makes sense on a bike like mine (Enduro SL, a very good 'all-mountain' type model).
Not really knocking them psychle I just think them too expensive and heavy and something else to go wrong for most riding. My saddle is up and down more than a smutty analogy but a QR suffices for me. If I ever did get my act together and did a megavalanche I'd ask junkyard nicely if I could borrow one of his 🙂
Already got some silicon grease from work, cheers tho.
he lies he thinks they are JUST ugly and he is a tart no one I know needs one more than you
you're just sick of waiting for me at the top and bottom of every downhill aren't you?
Now you really are LIEING
Can i swap some marine grease for some silcon grease then?
PS you forgot to mention the perfect length cable as well 😉
If you get your arse behind the saddle then it hardly matters what height it is 🙂
If you get your arse behind the saddle then it hardly matters what height it is
What it you want your arse [b]over [/b]the saddle but don't want to get smacked in the nuts as you manhandle the bike about?
Yep all my bikes are objects of beauty
see, that's a bike I would've thought could benefit from a GD or somesuch... have you tried one out?
psychle - Member
Don't really see the point of these seatpost's without a handlebar remote TBH, I have a GD with the remote and it's brilliant, being able to drop the saddle on the fly really is the dogs danglies... for those who knock it, I'm guessing they've never really tried it? Or don't ride variable terrain where it pays to drop your saddle at times?
Its not that difficult to put your hand under the saddle and press a lever is it? Practice cupping you crown jewels, you'll soon get the hang of it!
Its not that difficult to put your hand under the saddle and press a lever is it?
It is if you're going at any sort of speed... I quite often find myself dropping the saddle whilst 'in the flow' especially at trail centres etc, it's bloody handy being able to do it from the bar, without having to take a hand off and maybe lose control!
[i]having to take a hand off and maybe lose control! [/i]
Ooer!
😆 gotta love a good euphemism 🙂
Not very often does the need arise to be over the saddle - if the bike is pointing even faintly downhill and you're travelling any speed over walking pace you need to be further back than that. Not saying that dropping the saddle doesn't have its place for certain kinds of riding (I don't bother personally, but each to their own) but if you fail to get your arse back a bit you will def be going over the handlebars every now and then because you won't be able to get purchase with your feet.What it you want your arse over the saddle but don't want to get smacked in the nuts as you manhandle the bike about?
sorry glenp but not quite right. Getting your weight lower centrally over the bike helps quite a bit in lots of situations. Not essential but does help quite a bit. IME it can make the difference between getting down a tech trail OK or getting down it comfortably and faster/smoother.
All IMO of course but I do note that not many downhillers have their saddles at optimum pedalling height.
quite often find myself dropping the saddle whilst 'in the flow' especially at trail centres etc,
LOL, why on earth would you need to drop your saddle at trail centres???
[i]LOL, why on earth would you need to drop your saddle at trail centres???[/i]
well for getting maximum phat air off jumpy descents!
well for getting maximum phat air off jumpy descents!
For one thing... and also Trail Centres tend to be designed with a bunch of different features on one run (undulating sections, jumps, drops, all sorts of stuff, right?) so it is a real bonus (to me anyway) to be able to just drop my saddle whenever I spot something up ahead that would benefit from it... Brechfa is a good example I think...
And yes
getting your weight lower centrally over the bike helps quite a bit in lots of situations.
I find this is the case as well! Again, a GD really shines in this situation, you hit the bottom of the descent, click with your thumb, and your saddle is back up at optimum climbing height for the hill in front of you, no need to stop... superb 8)
LOL, why on earth would you need to drop your saddle at trail centres???
Because clearly you can only do that on "natural" trails? 🙄
Because clearly you can only do that on "natural" trails?
Of course, do you not know the rules? 😕
Donk - obviously I'm not talking about DH. Just general trail riding. If you fail to get back as well as down you will take trips over the bars. DHers do not just squat lower, they go back as well. If you choose between weight back or weight down, which one do you choose? Well, I know which I choose, and I never go over the bars.
Anyhow, what would I know?
glenp, I'm curious, if you've got yourself behind the saddle how do you move your weight from side to side for the corners. Also if you're going to be weighting and weighting the bike through the corners do you find that the saddle gets in your way?
I'm just wondering, not saying you're wrong btw. I personally can't do it and am always interested to hear how other people do things.
is this thread turning into a big balls contest? I ride the Fort Bill downhill with my saddle so high I can't reach the pedals 🙄
Not saying that you don't get even more freedom of movement with a lowered saddle, only that it is perfectly feasible to ride very nearly as fast and smooth with a "normal" saddle. Cornering I lay the saddle halfway along my inside thigh, so the bike is laid over more than me. If the terrain is very very steep and the saddle is fully in front of the shorts (might be virtually on the chest if near vertical) then I wouldn't personally be trying to turn really hard at the same time. I'm not DH racing here, just normal all-sorts trail riding.
Sorry glenp wasn't trying to annoy you, I was just adding the point that getting your weight down aswell as back was a good thing in certain situations and while general trail riding doesn't need a full on DH setup a low saddle can help on techy stuff
forgetting cornering and speed and weight back and all those other considerations of technique, the main reason I like to lower the saddle is that sometimes, when things get particularly hairy, I like to be able to be able to get my feet on the ground more easily. When my saddle is at "optimum riding height" it can be a stretch to get the tootsies on the ground, especially if the trail is off-camber. For the same reason I sometimes like to use flat pedals instead of SPDs. Sod the technique, for me it is about damage limitation
I'd love one of these adjustable posts but they are too expensive and I gather unreliable. Also, the weight weenie in me says no
Cool and a good explanation. I'm probably guilty of having my weight too far back at times. It can get pretty steep round here though 🙂
That point that you make there, stilltortoise, is actually the really big reason that I don't much like dropper posts, or even fiddling with the saddle height. If the terrain has got to the point where is is technical, it is virtually always easier to ride the section out, rather than stop and put your foot down. Sometimes riders get over used to dabbing a foot and get blocked in their mind and never build the commitment that would get them to other side of the tricky bit anyway.
I'm not trying to make this a big balls thing - only to say that sometimes I think dropper posts are mis-used and have a negative effect. I encourage people to set their saddle for pedalling and think more about how they move their weight around, what they do with their feet, picking up their commitment… lots of stuff that is more important than dropping the saddle.
Are they really worth it? Does someone own one who can say either yes get one they are great and work or no they are awful don't bother!
I'm sure they're super, but for my purposes it's all added complexity and expense that I can do without, on balance.
Haven't been following it, presumably there's a reason why these particular ones are half price is there?
Im tempted to get one as I think the idea is sound but wobbly saddles and seizure puts me off. Crank Brothers stuff is generally shite quality just comes in fancy packaging for Londoners buying from Evans, so I might not bother.
Are they really worth it? Does someone own one who can say either yes get one they are great and work or no they are awful don't bother!
I had a GD for years and now have a joplin-r. They work great... but a remote version is preferable.
I think the benefit of the low saddle is that you tend not to sit on it during techy sections therefore you are more dynamic in your riding.
If you ride sat down, when you come to a tricky bit you have to do 2 moves, one to get out of the saddle, another to get yourself where you need to be.
On our local trails there is one lovely drop, only just on the edge of rollable, about 2.5 metre vertical descent witha nasty underhang half way down. You know you've got it right (with a high post) when you get a nice bruise from the saddle on your sternum.
I was going to mention the bailout option but as GlenP says some people give up too soon and dab/stop or even worse [b]the[/b] cardinal sin, try to ride something tripod style.
I'll have you know I patented the Tripod style and a damn fine techinque it is too.
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/dave-lowe/3972317181/in/set-72157622374815981/ ]Toss is very adept at the full on "Quadruped" method of advanced downhilling.[/url]
I find that if I have my seat at optimum pedalling height and I shift my weight behind the saddle, trying to get back on the saddle causes all kinds of 'issues' with my shorts getting in the way. There's nothing worse than hanging off the back of the bike when the trail flattens out again because you can't get back on properly! Well, there probably is, but you get the point.
Agree with you there Paul, which is why I drop mine quite a lot for techy trails. It's all about being able to move about dynamically - all the time 🙂
I would get one if doing the Mega again, as it was about the only thing my bike lacked this year. Really frustrating to get overtaken by folk, who've just clicked their saddles down at the start of a big descent, having overtaken them on the pedalling section.
And as for this 'get yourself right over the back of the saddle' stuff....that just makes the bike handle like a pig, under-steering badly, totally unweights the front end, hinders braking and balance. Saddle at optimum pedalling height is great for XC, but try to land a decent-sized jump with a seatpost at max extension and you'll not be able to absorb the landing very well (if at all) without being bashed by the saddle.
I'd agree with the people saying to get a remote one though... I just added a remote to my gravity dropper and straight away I'm making far more use of it. It's just massively better. I love having the flexibility of the dropper, it's ace and I think most people would appreciate having one once they've tried it, even the critics and the incurably 1337.
Its a judgement / balance of factors call.
For me the added weight, cost, complexity against stopping a couple of times in a few miles is simply not worth it.
At a trail centre I will drop the seat - and sometimes end up pedalling with the seat too low. However I don't mind stopping now and then. Its often only once or twice per ride I adjust the saddle. Up for the climbs, down low for descents, down a bit for undulating techy bits
We spend fortunes saving a few grammes. then add loads of stuff extra
Depends a lot on your riding... It was Drumlanrig and Glentress black that convinced me to get one, watching ChrisL's in action made me very jealous. If it's your standard "big climb, big descent" trail centre design then it's not so useful, on glentress red I hardly use mine but on a more up-down trail the benefits are much more obvious I think.
