Ive built my five up burly so would go with:

Flows
1x10 32t 11-36, or with t rex or similar
Xt's should be fine, but i prefer hope (v4's on mine)
Hope ceramic... Mines going strong after 4 yeras
Straightline silent guide. Works perfect and has no moving parts, not cheap tho and works only with 1 x 10
Med cage
Get rid of front mech

I would not buy the double but an xt triple instead and run as double and bash.
So if you did decide to go 1x in the future that would work no problem.

Flows for me.
Single ring up front, Superstar chain guide, 11-36 out back and never really have to push up the hills.
I use shimano BBs and they don't last long but they are cheap.
XT brakes are brilliant. No problems on several long alpine holidays (and I'm good at dragging on my brakes!).
KMC chain.
Hope headset is E2? Can't remember but the website explains.

But definitely, definitely Flows over Arch.

Edit - I've not felt it necessary to get a clutch mech with the above setup.

Ok looks like the Rims will be flows.. but whats happened to hope gold hubs? seem to be non existant?

I was going for a double as my mrs will also use it, so she might need the extra gears..

The hope headset, can anyone point me in the right direction on merlins please? http://www.merlincycles.com/headsets-44192/
Was also looking to put a gold one on..

140 or 150mm pike RCT3? £492 from Bike24..anywhere cheaper?

A 38 tooth chain ring on the middle of a triple won't work. The chain won't get past the swing arm. 34 is the biggest that fits, assuming its a 26er frame, I tried a 36 and it catches the frame when you shift. Also if it is a 26er then the suspension is designed round a 32t middle chainring.

Going for a single ring over a double also gives you the advantage of being able to run a RH reverb remote underneath the left hand side of the bars without clashing with a shifter - much more usable in this position IMO.

chrismac
Its a 650b frame..
Just read this on the orange site:
[i]2x10 Specific

True 2x10 specific mountain bike chain sets with compact chain rings (normally 28-42T or 26-38t) are available from both Shimano and SRAM. Most of these chainsets have a narrower Q factor than a triple chainset.

This means that the chain rings sit in closer to frame. This combined with the position of the pivots and tolerances on our handmade frames mean 2x10 specific chainsets are not compatible with our frames.

2x10 Double and Bash

2x10 can also be achieving by using a double and bash type set-up using a triple chainset. This involves removing the outer chainring from a 3x 10 triple chainset and replacing it with a bash guard. The front derailleur then needs either swapping for a double specific model or adjusting so that it works with just 2 rings.[/i]

Well thats just broken out the box....

I'd say a 1x with either SRAM 11sp or a 11-40 expansion but you don't really know what ring will fit till you try it.
When I ran 2x10 I was using 24-39 which was great but that won't fit.
As for Chain Guide, bit of a lottery and depends how the rest is set up

also Hope BB worth the upgrade.
Headset read the Hope Guide on their tech pages.

The frame came with the bog standard fox CTD Evolution shock..
What's the verdict on a RC3 Plus (debonair?) or CCDB Air?

CCDB Air to heavy?

Anyone know which tune? cant find it on the orange site..

If you're buying a Shimano crankset, use the BB, no reason not to. Maybe upgrade later if you feel the need but XT BBs are pretty good these days, more than 25% as good as Hope but 25% the price...

Ride the shock first. Me, I reckon simple suspension designs can make use of a lot more shock but, on the other hand, if you want sophisticated suspension you've bought the wrong bike 😉 It might suit you, the last 2 Fives I rode had a cheap and an expensive shock but for me the cheap one made for the better ride- less grip and control, but more [i]fun[/i]. My 224 on the other hand never felt right til I put a CCDB in it- and that's no criticism of the DHX it came with, the frame design just needed the backup.

Flow or Arch just depends how hard you want to go, a Five is kind of all things to all men. I'd have Flows, ymmv. But the rest of your kit is pretty bighitty.

1x10 is good but I think you'd already know if you wanted it, it's not something I'd jump into.

Renthal stem is a tart's handbag. You may or may not be a tart 😉

Yep ride the bike with the shock, you then have options to either replace or retune if you don't like it but to bin it from the box is a bit enthusiastic.

Given the choice I would go:
Zee brakes
Renthal carbon bars
Pikes
Canecreek inline or monarch rc3 debonair (good luck finding either before the end of September)
Zee single crankset with hope retainer ring, 11-36 out back
Flow ex wheels

Basically full zee. I'd only pick the debonair shock to match the forks over the inline but I'm sure both would be excellent.

Saint brakes are super pimp and very powerful but XT's are also very nice and powerful enough IMO plus at just over £100 a pair great value for money.

I have a Five and was very disappointed with the Evolution shock...blew through the travel too easy, swapped it out for a CCDB, heavy but awsome however I'm interested in feedback on the Inline on a Five, ideally I'll pick up a CCDB Air. Also if you sell your shock new you'll get more for it than if you've used it (if funds are tight there is a CCDB for sale on PB for £225 providing the shock length on 27.5 is the same as 26).

I also need new rims and deciding between Flow EX & Arch EX, I'd love to get the lighter Arch but the reality is with my CCDB and Fox 36's (set at 140) along with ridding style (I use it for a wide spectrum of ridding) I think I will forego the 100g per rim for the extra strength/security!

Gold digger I have a ccdb air on my five. Had it for a year now and it's the best upgrade Iv done. I bought it for the feel of a coil but without the weight. It does take a long time to set up and its easy to cock it up but now its set its amazing. It also has a party trick of giving unbelievable levels of traction. It can winch its way up nearly anything now.

If you do go for it let me know and il send you over a starter setup. The lounge on ccdb's site is pretty good for info too.

Stumpyjumper

If I hade bought the frame from orange I would have opted for the CCDB..

Which CCDB do you have? looking online there's a CS model and what I would call the normal model..
http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/cane-creek-double-barrel-air-cs-damper-216406/wg_id-1800

XT shifters are cheap as chips on CRC at the moment..

Question is bar mount or iSpec? gut feeling says the iSpec are a bit fragile?
Will the shifters work with a triple chainset changed to a double and bash?

If you set the stop screws correctly on the triple front mech it will stop you shifting in to the bash and the shifter will operate between granny and middle but not let you move the shifter to then shift up to where the large ring was.

OK think Ill save some pennies on the CCDB and get a monarch RC3 plus debonair.
Zee Germans are showing back in stock next week..

There will be a brand new fox float CTD evolution going on the classifieds along with a set of blue hope pro 2's on 719rims 26"

Is it just my frame or is the searpost tube bigger than the quoted 30.9?
There's some noticeable play..which I would say its more like 31.6

guys..
A little confused here..

If I can fit a Tripple chainset:[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-xt-m780-10-speed-triple-chainset/rp-prod67199 ]XT M780[/url]
Take the outer ring off and fit a bash - then why cant I just run a the triple chainset 3x10?

Assuming I go with the triple chainset and take the outer ring off, fit a bash. Which front derailleur do I need to fit? a 2x10 or a 3x10?

I'm after a XT, if poss please provide a link to the one I need?

TIA

Take the outer ring off and fit a bash - then why cant I just run a the triple chainset 3x10?

though considering you're going to replace the shock, can't run modern doubles etc. what was so wrong with the spicy?

mikewsmith..
I'll give Orange a call tomorrow and double check.. got everything in my cart and waiting..

I just didn't like the way the spicy felt... and on the other hand this new bike is also for my mrs to use.. The spicy in a medium would have been to big for her, due to the height of the top tube.

I think this answers my question
[img] [/img]

http://singletrackworld.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/the-orange-five-is-dead-long-live-the-orange-five/

Recommend me a stem please guys...
Hope AM ? Which colour to go with me green frame?

I have a normal ccdb air. The new inline one is a little lighter. I'd go for a 50mm hope am stem. The gun smoke colour would look good next to the green!

Go all black
[img] [/img]

@goldigger I've been running a 24-36 double and bash setup on my 2011 Five for the last two years, I have no clearance issues, the chain does come close to the pivot when shifting but not close enough to touch.

[url= https://flic.kr/p/aDRxh4 ]Orange Five 24/36 double and bash.[/url]

Chainset is an XT 770-10 triple with the outer removed.

Re:-the colour, it has to be green and black.

@goldigger I tried three different front mechs and settled on a FD785-10 double.

Hi, I bought one of the last 26" Fives. I run XO1 and a CCDB coil with a Ti spring. 1 x 11 is superb (32 tooth chain ring), likewise the shock. It really is a step up from the Fox CTD shock fitted as original equipment. Most of the other equipment is Hope - E4 brakes, hubs, BB, AM stem. I had a 50mm stem, but swapped for a 35mm and find this excellent too, paired with a 780mm bar. One of the beauties of the Five is its versatility. You can go for a beefy build or lightweight trail build around the same frame. I've kept the Fox shock and will probably run that here in the UK - the CC however was awesome in the Alps. Whatever you do, you'll have fun so I wouldn't worry too much! Also - be prepared to realise that you'll probably change some components as you get used to the bike and your own style of riding. Have a good one!

I went for the burly build too, and glad I did as it gets a ragging and I'm happy to accept a weight penalty for the benefit of solid parts.
My build is CCDB coil (ti spring), soon to be 150mm Pikes, Easton Havoc stem and bars, straightline pedals, Halo Chaos rims on hope hubs, reverb (essential IMO), and Hope V4 brakes, hope 32t chainring set up 1 x 10 with 11-36 cassette, xt chainset & shifter. May get the hope t-rex next

Regarding hubs - Hope no longer sell gold coloured parts do they. I think it's because they only have so many anodising tanks, so when they released purple they stopped doing gold.

Hope stopped doing gold as the batches all differed colour wise..
I can understand this as I do my own anodising on the lights I make. Gold is the most difficult colour to do.

So I've gone green and black..
Lots of parcels turning up today..

Made a head press on my mill last night and fitted the headset cups..

I've gone for the triple XT chain set with a M780 E2 triple front mech.
Have the option of changing to a double and bash still..

Still undecided on the rear shock..cost wise and weight wise I'm liking the rockshox rc3 plus debonair..
But wondering what the comparison is to the ccdb..

@Goldigger: Out of interest what lights do you make, if MTB ones, have you got a link to a website?

I'd say if you can stretch to carbon rims over the flows. Wider and lighter.

Stem - Easton Haven (all black from Merlin) or Havoc and possibly a set of matching Easton carbon bars. You could go for the new 35mm ones.

Creamegg..
Most of my lights are light cannons as I'm a lumen monster lol..
I have random pictures on my web space..
I've got more pics at home I can mail you..here's a couple..
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]

Arch EX might be fine unless you're heavy, very clumsy or riding DH and getting air. They've worked very well for me, although that's in 26", not 650b.
You shouldn't need a chain guide if you run a clutch mech.
Personally, I reckon Hope BBs are barely worth the extra dosh when XTs are about £20, unless you really don't like fitting new ones yourself from time to time.
Saint brakes probably overkill unless most of your riding is in the Alps/Lakes or somewhere similar.

Good choice of frame: brilliant do-it-all bikes, super-reliable for UK conditions, too.

Are the bolts for the direct mount mech meant to be supplied with the frame?

I got spacers with it..do I need to use these?

Post man failed to deliver the bars and stem today so building was short lived!
[img] [/img]

I have a selle italia Pro link saddle on my anthem.. which agrees with my behind...but its discontinued and not cheap.

How does the SDG bel air compare?
[img] [/img]

I hated it but saddles are subjective. I didn't think that crankset worked on a five?

And yes the screws for the hanger are supplied with the frame

I found the sdg pretty comfy but as said not all arses were made equal

I phoned orange and they told me a triple works..but nothing bigger than a 32 middle ring.
The pro comes with a triple chain set..22/32/42
http://www.leisurelakesbikes.com/p/13268/orange-five-pro-275-full-suspension-mountain-bike-2014

I see, thought you had a double on there for a second.

Oh and nice colour choice

[img] [/img]

Got some more done tonight..
Picking up some outer gear cable in the morning..levers didn't cone with any, even though the comments suggest they did.

Halfrauds to the rescue.. But with 20% off gear cable kits for 11.99..
Also picked up a Sells Italia Max SLR gel flow for £60.. Cheapest online was £75.

Hope head doctor was tighter than a ducks ass..so binned the oring.
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]

Starting to take shape! Ive got a mate whos after some new lights, do you have any prices, battery run time and output?

I have this one spare..which is quite bright..
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]

Drop me a mail..email in profile.. 🙂

Anyone see a problem? apart from no saddle
[img] [/img]

Goldigger - Member

I phoned orange and they told me a triple works..but nothing bigger than a 32 middle ring.
The pro comes with a triple chain set..22/32/42

Had a triple on mine and got sick of dropping the chain, reckon you'll end up going 1x10 or 2x10 with some sort of chain device.

Orange are wrong!

I know of two people running 24/36 on a triple, I'm sure they can't be the only ones, there have been some clearance issues when running a 36t in the past, however, for them to say it doesn't work is just wrong.

Advice should have been, we're not sure as tolerances vary, try it and see, it may well do.

I think it all depends on the welds.
Some may not take larger rings due to the welding so they cover there tucos by saying that larger rings don't fit.

But you may be lucky.

Spoke to tftuned this morning.
Ordered a CCDB Air, I was advised that the CCDB Air CS wouldn't work as well for me.
As I'm 100kg kitted up and I'd be running the shock at 200psi or more, the high speed rebound would be out of range..

There will be a unused fox evo CTD up for sale later..

Spoke to tftuned this morning.
Ordered a CCDB Air, I was advised that the CCDB Air CS wouldn't work as well for me.
As I'm 100kg kitted up and I'd be running the shock at 200psi or more, the high speed rebound would be out of range..

I thought that was only a problem with the Inline. Looks like it will have to be a CCDB Air on my 5 too then. Shame, I quite like the pro-pedal on my RP23 and was hoping to get the Air CS.

190x50 CCDB coil with mounting hardware for Five going spare now that I've sold my Five frame. 550lb spring. Email in profile.

Also second the comment about middle chainring size. Some run a 36 happily and some don't.
I suspect you can make it work on most Fives if you offset the swingarm alignment by a mm or so when tightening the bearings (but I never tried it)

I thought that was only a problem with the Inline. Looks like it will have to be a CCDB Air on my 5 too then. Shame, I quite like the pro-pedal on my RP23 and was hoping to get the Air CS.

I know where your coming from...I was pretty much set on the CS.. Hopefully I can live without the shiny switch.
Plenty of people have coils on there 5's without any pro pedal feature..

The ccdb coil dosent need a propedal switch. You can tune it so theres virtually no pedal bob

There's no difference between the damping circuits in the standard and CS CCDBA - the CS circuit is a separate low speed compression and rebound circuit (with five different preset tunes).

chiefgrooveguru - Member
There's no difference between the damping circuits in the standard and CS CCDBA - the CS circuit is a separate low speed compression and rebound circuit (with five different preset tunes).

Are you saying tftuned are wrong?

There may well be an issue with the CCDB inline's rebound damping range. I can't see how there is a similar problem in the CCDBA-CS seeing as it's a completely different shock which is near identical to the CCDBA if you ignore the extra circuits for the climb switch. The high speed rebound circuit has nothing to do with the CS circuits and is the same as on the original CCDBA (but with an Allen rather than spanner adjuster). All the base tunes are the same for CCDBA and CCDBA-CS, which confirms how they're identical bar the CS add-on.

I think someone at TFT has got confused between the two!

I run a double converted from a triple with the big ring being a 36. Never had any clearance issues at all.

Before I built it I changed the bearings in the swing arm and took a lot of time making sure it was centered properly so it's definitely not the arm being offset that gives me the clearance.

it's definitely not the arm being offset that gives me the clearance.

+1

Mines never been off, had it since new and it looks central as far as I can see.

chiefgrooveguru - Member
There may well be an issue with the CCDB inline's rebound damping range. I can't see how there is a similar problem in the CCDBA-CS seeing as it's a completely different shock which is near identical to the CCDBA if you ignore the extra circuits for the climb switch. The high speed rebound circuit has nothing to do with the CS circuits and is the same as on the original CCDBA (but with an Allen rather than spanner adjuster). All the base tunes are the same for CCDBA and CCDBA-CS, which confirms how they're identical bar the CS add-on.

I think someone at TFT has got confused between the two!

Did a little reading online and it suggests that the CS is just an addition to the CCDB AIR..
will probably phone tftuned at 9am and change my order.

Ooh good thread! I think spec comes down to personal preference but if its any help I test-rode a Five Pro with upgraded RCT3 forks and Monarch+ rear shock. It wasn't the lightest bike I've ever ridden but it felt invincible and really well balanced. [url= http://www.3peakscycles.com/p/7079/Orange-Five-Pro---2015 ]www.3peakscycles.com/p/7079/Orange-Five-Pro---2015[/url]

Spoke tftuned, I was told that the CS has an effect on HSR.. Whether that is when the switch is on or off I forgot to ask.
But I've gone for the CS..as a lot of my local routes have climbes and I'll miss the pro pedal type feature..

One thing tftuned told me is that because the shock is going on a single pivot.. Not having enough HSR can be a issue.

There are guys in the states running the shock over 200psi without any issue

Just finished building this.. Gears need a bit of fettling and need to take my saints of my anthem.
Had a blast round the block, weight wise it feels heavy but riding it, it doesn't notice. Feels very quick and nibble.

Adjusting the front mech is a FAFF!
[IMG] [/IMG]

Out of curiosity what sort of sag are you guys running on your rear shocks? I have the 2015 five frame with a fox ctd factory shock which I have running at 30% (13st so about 180psi). I was looking at the fox website the other day where it states that this shock should be set at 15 to 20% sag? I'd always thought 30 was about right on the five?

Depends entirely what your doing with it for sag. If you heading XC fast and zippy down the 20% way if your bouncing through a lot then more. Best approach is to take a shock pump out and mess around with it.

That looks smart Goldigger.
Like the colour & black componentry.

Cheers takisawa2..
All I need is some green flow stickers for the rims lol.

Here's a better pic..
[img] [/img]

Went out for a quick 10 miler locally..
I'd say it climbs better than my anthem, didn't loose rear traction and less pedal Bob.

Only thing I found was the small bump sensitivity for the pikes was a bit non existent.
I have them 85% psi, 1 click lsr and 7 clicks from slow rebound..
I'll up the rebound.. Lsr was previously set to half way

Try the Pikes with less pressure in them.
I'm running <70psi and I'm 13.5 st.
Stick a couple of those "bottomless token" air spacer jobbies in there too if you have them, then you'll possibly be able to drop pressure even further without bottoming out, as they make it ramp up more towards the end of the travel.

I'll give that a try..
Need to get a socket and machine it flat..
I have the tokens..

I've got a rather annoying clicking noise when pedaling.. Notice it more when I'm pedaling along on the flats.
It's not the seat/seat post.

My suspicion is the bottom bracket (brand new XT)
Is it normal to have to bang the crank out to remove the axle from the bottom bracket?

Pretty sure my Anthem one I can just pull out.

When you here the clicking, ride out of the saddle to see if it stops, if so not your bb .
I had a click that is wore blind was the bb because it happens at the same point of my crank rotation with every turn .
But it stopped when out of the saddle.
So set about try to eliminate it one theory so I would atleast to know what the problem was when and if I could cure it.

Turned out to be the seat tube/seatpost clamp interface. So removed the clamp a thin wipe of grease around the inside of the clamp did the job.

I had checked the crank, pedals,headset, seat post ,rear drop outs and cable slap before finding the problem.

Is it normal to have to bang the crank out to remove the axle from the bottom bracket?

Pretty sure my Anthem one I can just pull out.

Very very rarely have I found one that comes out without a good smack from a rubber hammer.

I had a clicking noise when pedalling, I thought it was the new BB I had fitted, but actually turned out to be a dry thread on one of the pedals, a bit of grease and the noise has gone away.

Cheers for the replies..
I'll grease the seat post clamp interface..didn't think about that when I chucked it on.
Might just remove every bolt and grease the threads..

As I suspected it was the pedals..
If you have saint pedals, make sure the gold nut is up tight.