I been giving this some more thought and have been considering what parameters folk are trying to optimise when judging the performance of a bike. For me the actual speed of the descent is less important than the feeling of fun I have when doing so, and how that fits into the whole day out. Sure if I was doing lift assisted stuff then the coils go on front and rear for that magic carpet ride, and a bit more speed and control on the descents . But personally I try to avoid both lifts and crowds. I relish a good long day out - climbs, rolling trails and the descents. For me weight starts to become a real issue. The gains from longer travel and coils on the down hill are such a small percentage of the day. For me at least they make the climbs a major chore and dull the rolling stuff. Taking the day as a whole they negatively impact the my average speed, and due to the increase fatigue sap some of the fun from the rolling and descending sections. I guess you have to decide what is important to you and run with that.
The description in the first post has basically pretty-much described an Ibis Ripmo, which, having owned one for the past couple of years, I can say is a wonderful bike for riding both up and down mountains.
There's certainly slacker-forked bikes out here, but head angle doesn't mean a whole lot without other geometry factored-in, and the overall length and balance of the bike makes it both reactive and stable at speed in the rough stuff. It's not a complete downhill sled, and despite it's renowned plushness it's certainly more fun and poppy than 'plough'. But (aside from the fact that she's a damned fine rider) there's a good reason Bex Barona had the EWS success she did aboard her Ripmo, before moving to Yeti.
On the setup front, I fully agree on the front end - I like a compliant bar with a high-ish position, so upgraded to a USE Flow Wide Carbon bar with 40mm rise, mated to a matching 31.8mm USE Vyce stem.
I've not bothered to fit a bashguard to mine, but have suffered a couple of chainring knocks, so maybe I should. I have been dabbling with flat pedals, but after 27 years on clipless I'm really a committed SPDer, so will likely go back to my Nukeproof Horizon CS pedals.
On the bounce front, I'm air at both ends, with the stock Fox 36 up front and X2 in the rear. The Ibis setup guides are great, and I've not deviated too much from the stock pressures and damping settings. I have wondered how the bike would ride with a 38 up front (38 is now specc'ed as stock), but I've not found the 36 limiting at all, and it'd be an expensive upgrade.
Tyres-wise, I have an Assegai/Dissector combo, with an insert in the rear. I also have a second lighter duty wheelset with Specialized Eliminator/Purgatory combo, also with a rear insert, which get ridden most of the time on tamer home trails.
That makes me think Deviate Highlander, probably because I’ve watched too many McTrail rider videos. But the head angle is 66deg with a 150mm fork, and the reach on a medium is a pretty short 444mm.
I’m running 160 on the front of mine (140 rear), 65 deg HA doesn’t have any negative effects. 475mm reach in a large, seat tube isn’t super tall either
My 5 y/o Mk2 Cotic Flare Max says otherwise.
The one you said you put an angleset in?
I was riding my Smuggler with an angleset and offset bushing in the mountains five years ago too, but it wasn't right for the job in stock form.
if we look at those who ride down mountains (or at least big hills) in the context outlined by the OP (assuming that optimal = fastest)
Not actually what I had in mind. Average person riding down a mountain wanting to enjoy it, not die, and not be too beaten up by it.
assuming that optimal = fastest
Blimey what a daft assumption!
assuming that optimal = least dabs/ portages
FTFY 🙂
If you’re not in a hurry, is a long slack 29” hardtail with a big fork and tough sticky tyres a terrible idea? I’ve yet to take mine up or down any actual mountains…
