taper roller bearings - bit of a twist!
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=23&products_id=353
5 year warranty also!
5 year warrenty, on everything apart from
the bearings
the cosmetic apperance
So unless you regulalry snap BB shells off what exactly is he covering?
edit: just read the t&c's, he aslo excludes anythign that could be judged to be near the end of its natural usable life (so if it snaps in 4.5 years, he'll probably exclude that too)
i am unsure how shit stays out
looks good,m just depends on the quality of the seals
He has also adopted the policy of 'if its not fitted correctly by a trained mechanic' then its not been fitted properly.
Good luck to anyone trying to get one of them replaced on warranty!
Fair play, if properly done the bearings should last longer, but the issue with HT2 is sealing is it not?
Patented taper roller bearings are over 400% larger than normal HT2
4mm taper roller bearings (most HT2 type only have 1mm ball bearings)
FAIL
Never measured them but all the ones I've taken apart have been what looks like 3+mm dia ball bearings so 1mm is just talking b******s.
Plus they look designed to handle axial rather than radial
loads which seems odd unless you like preloading your bearings excessively.
IIRC taper roller bearings need a tad of free play or their life is severely compromised. In a BB the free play would be annoying at best. I don't think a taper roller is the right bearing.
I also don't see how there is room to put a bearing " nearly the size" of a car wheel bearing in a HT2 BB shel
Blimey £45 - can buy a hope for another £10 🙂
He's talking about the size of the rollers themselves rather than the whole bearing but there are a lot more of them in a car bearing and they're bigger than 4mm in all the ones I've seen at least so overall a much larger surface area.
They do seem to be generally talking crap though. Sounds like a product designed by someone who either doesn't understand the engineering or just wants to be able to market it as a first.
Fwiw I don't think the slight play would be an issue since sq taper bbs with play are only annoying because of noise.
the test will be whether taper roller bearings cope with rolling around in the dirt better than ball bearings rather than load handling - both systems will take the load of a crank, but what about when the inevitable muck gets in?
I doubt the sealing looks good enough TBH and have you ever seen a pasture roller going over a bumpy road - ouch its gonna grind!
They seem fairly successful in headsets, been on FSA for years, cranks are entirely different load levels though.
I just don't trust anything with moving parts from SSC, been bitten too many times.
They seem fairly successful in headsets
But isn't the usage different? Headsets have to turn a limited amount while cranks are rotating. From my usage of HTII I think seals are the most important bits.
Interested to see if these actually work, obviously the forum experts will form an opinion before anyone's ever seen one 😉 But it won't be me that beta tests one that's for sure.
racing_ralph - Member
i am unsure how shit stays out
I don't think it does, he just says you can take it apart and scrub the muck out!!
No one has mentioned weight yet! Bet they are on the heavy side for HTII, but I'd give them a go, I'm not a weight weeny and always up for trying something different.
i sent an email asking about weight/warranty, ill see what the reply is.
Forum opinion doenst look good though i must say 🙂
Some of us do actually understand stuff
like this so why not comment? Side load or arguably any loading isn't the real world issue with ht2 bbs so this is quite an odd solution.
Patented taper roller bearings are over 400% larger than normal HT2 type deep groove bearings, and are not far off the size used in car rear stub axles. Taper bearings are used in headsets to allow for sideloads on installation and in use, so we packaged this system for BB use. This solves the main cause of HT2 early death, and the easy maintinence solves the other problem of seized bearings. If it can cope with 400kg of weight per wheel on a car, then it sure as well can cope with anything you throw at it!5 YEAR WARRANTY on this part as only neglect will kill it off. [b]If it gets packed with mud or water then pop out the bearing and lip seal, scrub clean and regrease.[/b] Simple, sturdy and long lasting. Look after it and it will keep you rolling for years.
the bit in bold hardly fills me with confidence.
IME with Cannondale head shocks, roller bearings are markedly less tolerance of grit and debris before jamming, scoring and generally wearing.
Not cofidence inspiring, but at least they 'let you' take them apart, unlike Shimano!!
IIRC taper roller bearings need a tad of free play or their life is severely compromised. In a BB the free play would be annoying at best. I don't think a taper roller is the right bearing.
Not necessarily, depends on usage, location, heat etc.
Well i'd be happy to test one and see how well it fares over the next few months, heading into winter.
After all its not gonna knacker up anything but itself, although i cant see any tophats in there. So if it did seize it could end up scoring the crank axle?
ziggy - MemberThey seem fairly successful in headsets, been on FSA for years, cranks are entirely different load levels though.
What headsets use tapered roller bearings? The FSA ones, and all others I have taken apart all use angular contact bearings, which are not the same as tapered rollers...
I can't see how using tapered bearings is going to help here, the slightest bit of crud that gets in there is going to cause problems as the rollers are going to have to lift over it, or push it around inside. This is unlike a ball bearing where the crud usually gets pushed to the sides...
Orbit UF ones in the lower race, although FSA call them needle bearing, look the same in appearance, I'm sure an engineer will be along shortly to tell me the difference 🙄
I would not use Supershite BB if I were given it. Previously a collapsed bearing on a SS BB gouged a trough in my Axle and it sheared. XTR cranks too so the twenty odd quid saved on BB cost 300 for new crankset. Avoid like the plague.
I don't mean to be rude fizzer, but you must have been spectacularly unobservant for it to get that bad.
Stupidly I tried a Superstar BB and one side managed to disintegrate before I even managed to fit the cranks. As someone else said, for £10 more you can get a Hope BB. Good luck to them but not for me.
Granted the SS standard BBs are shite but these probably come from a different supplier so you never know...
I'm not sure roller bearings are the answer though; sealed angular contact ball ball bearings would be good though as the bearing could be easily changed without screwing or pressing in new cups.
Yep, making assumptions on these parts based on the old ones makes no sense, Superstar are a rebrander so it's probably more likely than not that these are made by a different company.
I'm not touching them until Kasae gives us his opinion.
Its just another take on how to lube up the bearings, keep any of them cleaned and lubed and they will last indefinately... Its the bolting it in and forgetting it that kills them... Sadly thats also how Shimano tell you to do it.
Or just learn to stip and lube the Shimano's and never have to buy another BB..
top answer there druidh 🙂
I know sh1t about bearings, but the aerozine skf bb I bought from Superstar has been utterly reliable and so far has lasted twice as long as each of the previous two raceface ones - maybe it's worth waiting to see one of these before writing it off...
[i]cheers_drive - Member
Granted the SS standard BBs are shite but these probably come from a different supplier [/i]
Its not the product that stops me buying...its the guys obsession with crime scene style investigation until he finds what he thinks is proof that the end user is at fault.
[i]He has also adopted the policy of 'if its not fitted correctly by a trained mechanic' then its not been fitted properly.[/i]
One of my riding mates bought one of their BB's, it failed within the first couple of rides. A replacement was sent and the broken one returned, apparently it was fitted incorrectly so no refund. Funnily enough, the mate is a mechanic, and the replacement was fitted in exactly the same way and has been fine for several months.
I must be doing something wrong with my Shimano XT BB - been fitted on the bike since new in May 2009 - replaced the chainrings on the crankset which involved removing the cranks...checked the BB bearings while I was there and they are still buttery smooth - the top of the bearings (that stick out the frame) has a small layer of grime on it - more dust than anything but the actual bearings themselves are spinning with no resistance, no noise and feel amazingly smooth - never touched it and it gets hosed down weekly - bike gets used weekly and through a load of grime - but might not be used as often as many other bikes - but the bearings seems to be wearing very well indeed.
Mate had a fancy Superstar BB - looked good but after about 6 weeks developed a real weird whining noise - the bearings sounded drier than the Gobi desert - but we couldn't get them out to do anything with...up until that point it seemed to be a very good BB...
I'm in agreement with DickB there. My XT bb has been on my one and only MTB since april 2008 and still feels good as new - I've no reason to suppose that it won't last beyond eternity.
I'm not buying them until they've been rock tested 😆
[url= http://clee-cycles.co.uk/cc/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/24_48/products_id/1182?osCsid=4e61d9ed0fce221f9b2fcfd9df3c3c6c ]Design not exclusive to Superstar and cheaper here.[/url]
Scienceofficer - don't apologise for being rude this is STW after all.
FYI - BB 1 month old, started creaking at Skiddaw House. Rode to Keswick Mountain Bikes where new Hope one fitted. On inspection bearing had disintegrated on non drive side. Two weeks later bang - axle snapped.
Also had SS brake pads part company from backing plates in the wilds of Torridon.
Moral - if you buy crap goods expect crap performance.
Also had SS brake pads part company from backing plates in the wilds of Torridon.
I had some bikefridge pads shed, and some SS ones that wore out very quickly, but I have to say the SS sintered pads last well and haven't given any problems beyond occasional squealing.
Surely this Superstar BB is moving in the wrong direction. They are marketing the pop it out and regrease feature. We want sealed fit and forget, not to go back to the days of stripping components and regreasing every five minutes. Their pedals and their chain guides are great though, good value and quality. I've never had a problem with their disc pads.
indeed matt. If it had grease nipples I'd think differently of it tho - I think the ability to add grease in situ easily would be very useful
I think i'll stick to the multi million pound company that actually test their products, rather than letting us test them for them.
Shimano XTR
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=38336
Patented taper roller bearings are over 400% larger than normal HT2 type deep groove bearings, and are not far off the size used in car rear stub axles. Taper bearings are used in headsets to allow for sideloads on installation and in use, so we packaged this system for BB use. This solves the main cause of HT2 early death, and the easy maintinence solves the other problem of seized bearings. If it can cope with 400kg of weight per wheel on a car, then it sure as well can cope with anything you throw at it!
5 YEAR WARRANTY on this part as only neglect will kill it off. If it gets packed with mud or water then pop out the bearing and lip seal, scrub clean and regrease. Simple, sturdy and long lasting. Look after it and it will keep you rolling for years.
I wouldn't buy anything that came with this description, there are so many things wrong with it!
He says the bearings are 'almost' the same size as those on a car. So they're not the same then? Then he ignores that a car wheel bearing has a lot more of the rollers, so are completely different in terms of performance. Then states it can cope with the loads of a car, as if it was the same bearing. So is it a car bearing or not? That's a rhetorical question.
Then it has to be installed by a mechanic for the warranty to be valid, yet it appears to be ok for the user to take bearings out and **** about with them? Or does that invalidate the warranty too? Another rhetorical question.
As said already, people don't want a bottom bracket that requires maintenance because most people aren't going to start popping cranks off to see whether the bottom bracket needs work or not.
Wayhey, its another "lets slate Superstar" thread.
YAWN
come on davey boy he brings a lot of it on himself.
his products on the whole are a mixed bad ks-posts bb & pads are not very good but the pedals & chainrings are its his attitude to wararnty that is harsh but to be honest there msut be so many who are trying it on .
Mattbike - MemberSurely this Superstar BB is moving in the wrong direction. They are marketing the pop it out and regrease feature. We want sealed fit and forget, not to go back to the days of stripping components and regreasing every five minutes. Their pedals and their chain guides are great though, good value and quality. I've never had a problem with their disc pads.
I have one of their chain guides, and whilst perfectly competent, it is very cheaply made. Very few miles have killed the lower jockey so it moves around and is noisy as anything - its getting bodged to run an MRP roller for the weekend.
Not sure its any better value than a more expensive piece of kit (if that makes sense)
I suffered from the first batch of dodgy pads where the pad compound fell off. For the price though, and after contacting Superstar and dealing with Dave (?) I decided to take 4 pairs of their kevlar pads to the Alps last summer and they were faultless. That was in August and I'm still on the second 2 pairs - faultless throughout a winter of riding up until now and they're still going strong. Ordered two centrelock>6-bolt adaptors the other week from them. Again, cheaper by a mile than other companies offerings and so far, so good.
I just get bored of everyone slating Superstar in every other thread. Granted, their first batches of pads were shocking and cost me the entry fee for HTN1 where they disintegrated and I had to get my caliper rebuilt = end of race after 1 lap but my experiences of them since have been very good.
I just think they need a little praise instead of getting a battering from forumites, a lot of whom I guess have never even used their products.
Oh, and to add, I'm not associated in any way with SS but if they're reading, I'd be happy to test one of you new BBs and then feedback to everyone on here whether they worked well, fell apart, caused my cranks to snap, a black hole to swallow me up etc.
Dave - serial HT2 BB wearer-outerer
Its really easy to replace the bearings in HT11 bottom brackets so theres no need to shell out for complete units.You can choose your quality of bearings,from 2 quid on e-bay to 10 quid for a top brand.Did mine yesterday and with the cups out less than 15 minutes.
I just get bored of everyone slating Superstar in every other thread.
it's more complicated than that. Neil didn't help himself by posting puff pieces under and assumed name and insisting that all faults were user caused (he did it to me too). Quite a few non-numpty members of my club have bought things which failed within weeks of fitting.
There do seem to be loads of SS knockers
I've been using the SS kevlar pads since March in all weathers - they worked well enough but took alot of bedding in and didn't seem to like the Formula discs I was running. Now running Magura Marta SL discs and they are working superbly.
Also seem to last well - still on the first set of SS Kevlar pads after about 800-1000 mainly off road miles.
I've been using one of the KCNC bb's (as linked to above) for about 4 months on the road bike I use for daily commuting and general bad weather road riding. Still spinning fine, but it's not getting the same hammer as it would off road. Since I tend to get about a year out of shimano bb's on my mtb and tend to stick with cheap deore or tiagra ones, I'm not sure I'll be to fussed about spending that much for my mtb unless I really believe there would be any rsignificant increase in longevity.
pads fine ss doofer fine never tried anything else but Neil/fruit was a nutter on here...I do miss him though more entertaining than Brant IMHO.
I just get bored of everyone slating Superstar in every other thread. Granted, their first batches of pads were shocking and cost me the entry fee for HTN1 where they disintegrated and I had to get my caliper rebuilt = end of race after 1 lap but my experiences of them since have been very good.
If that was my experience with a company's product I would never use that company again.
err howabout just not droppin your bike on its side, problem solved.
DezB - Member
"I wonder if KINGTUT's link had been posted first and not Superstar, would
they have been so roundly dismissed?"
Bingo. Much the same as the guy on here who dismissed Exotic forks as "cheap ebay carbon" then bought the Nukeproof ones, which are the exact same forks with a different sticker and a far higher price tag.
billybob - normally I wouldn't but for £35 for 4 pairs of brake pads with a satisfaction guarantee, it was too good an opportunity to miss.
And I've been laughing ever since. Not even the original Shimano pads which I regard as being some of the best wearing and functioning pads you can get aren't a patch on these, hence why I'm happy to pay very little for what seems to be very good kit. Just ordered a 10mm QR for the rear end of my Blur. £8 vs £35 minimum for a DT RWS one which doesn't have the best reviews 🙂
are these the same?
http://www.bikerumor.com/2010/06/15/new-outboard-roller-bearing-bottom-bracket-from-kcnc/
as linked to earlier in the thread - yes


