New forks
 

[Closed] New forks

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I have some brand new Rock shox reba forks dual air SL,i have pumped them up to my required weight setting but the travel on them is rubbish no more than 30mm ! They go pretty solid after that.Is there a setting i am not adjusting or somethong ??


 
Posted : 07/01/2009 8:21 pm
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Let all air out of -ve chamber at bottom of left leg, let all air out of +ve chamber at the top.
Put air into +ve chamber until you get desired sag, then set the -ve chamber to the same +- 5psi to get the desired feel.

Also, make sure compression dial is not closed ๐Ÿ™‚


 
Posted : 07/01/2009 8:35 pm
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mmmm sounds like it is the compression dial,as the lock out is not working correctly,feels like it could be locking out at about 30mm ! how do i tackle that ?


 
Posted : 07/01/2009 8:53 pm
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Dont you have to run much less than recommended pressures to get RS forks to work.


 
Posted : 07/01/2009 9:10 pm
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The travel is reduced whether they are pumped up to a high pressure or none at all !


 
Posted : 07/01/2009 9:14 pm
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I have adjusted the compression dial with hex key on bottom of rebound adjuster and they still go solid after about 30 mm travel.... my conclusion is they are what's commonly known as shite !
Any other ways of tackling problem ??


 
Posted : 08/01/2009 6:50 pm
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Sound like you might have a dodgy set.


 
Posted : 08/01/2009 6:53 pm
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I have adjusted the compression dial with hex key on bottom of rebound adjuster and they still go solid after about 30 mm travel.... my conclusion is they are what's commonly known as shite !
Any other ways of tackling problem ??

Ok, let all the air out of both chambers on the left leg. On the top of the right leg is a blue dial (this is the compression adjustment), if you turn it to fully open (anti-clockwise) and you still can't move the fork, I bet you have a dodgy seal in the damper.
If this is the case the damping oil will have run out into the lowers and left no room for the stanchion to move into.


 
Posted : 08/01/2009 7:01 pm
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FFS ......sounds like it could be that.Is that an easy job to replace ?


 
Posted : 08/01/2009 7:18 pm
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Yes very easy if you have the right tools*. If they're new though, i'd just send them back.

* external + internal (I think) circlip pliers , 5mm allen key, deep 24mm socket. 110ml of 5 wt oil for the damper, 15ml of 15 wt oil to replace the semibath in the lowers.


 
Posted : 08/01/2009 7:31 pm
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Leaking damper cartridges are a known problem on some models, send them back to Fishers via your bike shop for warranty repair.If you decide to do it yourself, remember to turn the lockout off before refitting the cartrdge or it won't go in.


 
Posted : 08/01/2009 8:17 pm