I'm after a new custom drop bar Ti build (similar to Moots Baxter).
I'm also starting from scratch, so far I only landed my eyes on a nice non-boost carbon rigid fork with the right clearance.
so:
1) do you suggest me to go BOOST at the rear even if the front will be 100x15? Or just not care and go standard also at the rear? Both ways I won't have chain rubbing problems since 29x2.3 will be the max tyre size.
2) internal routing cables: yea or nay?
3) I'm going with Sram road 1x groupset, but thinking about a shimano cranks since I'd like to try 180mm cranks and don't trust much DUB BB. Is it not recommended to mix the crankset?
can anybody answer at least at the 1st point?
I need to decide on that fork before it's too late
I wouldn't bother with boost for 29x2.3, esp not with road groupset
And I think the best cable routing might depend on whether you intend to use a frame bag or not.
Is this not what you're discussing with the frame builder? If you don't know the answers there's something wrong with the process...
It is your custom frame because you presumably want a frame that suits your specific needs that cannot be found on an off the peg frame. You are the only one who knows what you want and you should do whatever you want irrespective of anyone else thoughts.
If you don't know what you want then not sure you are ready and certainly shouldn't be rushing it to fit a fork that is for sale.
Some questions
What's the bike for
Do you plan to carry luggage
What do yo imagine doing with the bike
Has the builder not asked these?
If I was having a custom ti frame, I'd have internal routing but limit the number of holes in the frame. Brake, dropper and rear mech might be getting excessive. I assume it's 1x if you're going for 29x2.3.
How much mud clearance do you want and what chainstay length? You might force yourself down the boost route. The clearance/boost issue will also be influenced by crank choice affecting chainline.
I've had custom frames built around some random parts I've had in my experience that's how they start "ooh what should I do with this" but I know exactly what I want out of them.
You need to know exactly that and you need to find a builder who you know will make what you want and who's work you like.
I'm currently sweating what's a nice single speed solution if I want to do it on a new frame but have a Paul Melvin in the basement so I'll not be working about that too much...
Decision on boost on the back has to be decided by the tyre clearance you want primarily, then chainline, and guided by the framebuilder.
If it's just an aesthetic/future proof decision I'd go 142 - that's the gravel/road standard and I can't see it changing.
Front fork standard is irrelevant, ultimately forks can be changed, I've mixed and matched both ways.
Just throwing this out there if you want something in Ti like a Moots Baxter why not just buy one?
If you're using a cheaper Ti builder who's not answering the questions you have maybe think twice?
I know very well what I need in terms of geo (it's not my first custom).
I just don't have experience with boost, internal routing and shimano/SRAM mixing.
I'm sure I won't need boost for tyre clearance, just a question about future proofing and stiffness (I'm a huge guy ~220lbs).
I will carry full frame bag but in my experience it doesn't conflict with external routing
I expect the OP might be buying a custom frame from China, so the process simply comes down to the customer defining the frame size specification and the factory creating a drawing and once agreed building it. I've bought numerous frames over the years this way, and why didn't I buy a Moots? Because it would be 4-5 times more expensive and take way, way longer.
In terms of going boost - I'd stick with 142mm as it's still big enough to take 29x3" and likewise, go for 100mm x 12mm unless you're looking to fit a suspension fork.
Absolutely no problem running a Shimano crank with a SRAM drivetrain.
In terms of internal routing, consider not drilling holes in high stress areas and keeping them to a minimum particularly as you're a heavier rider. Suggest you also look at going for beefier chain stays and 50mm downtube - I did this for a friend and he finds it rides a lot better
I would go 142 rather than boost, i also wouldn’t bother with internal routing.
I’d prefer bsa BB too.
That’s MY opinion, others are available 👍👍
These are all questions your Framebuilder can answer ask them!
I did custom frame in China years ago, this time I'm going with an experienced Ti builder local (Italy).
It's not about price (roughly same money), I just don't like how Moots size up for tall riders.
Ok then, 142 and no drills.
Can you confirm a standard XT hub like Deore XT BB-MT800 is a better choice over SRAM DUB in terms of reliability?
So going down the 24mm hollow road?
Standard xt hubs are absolutely fine, just make sure there’s grease in there before you go riding.
Edit: just realised you meant bb.
Standard shimano is absolutely fine when correctly fitted.
Personally? I dislike internal cable routing and I really dislike anything but BSA BBs. Spacing standards? Pick the most popular / future proofed one
Yes, agree on standard BSA threaded BB's and 24mm spindle cranks but I've also had no problems with PF41/BB86 on a couple of custom titanium frames which makes for a wider/stiffer BB plus extra tyre clearance. Internal routing can be a nightmare if not done cleanly - I have spent hours trying to route hydraulic hoses on some builds