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In addition to the "How often do you max your travel" thread, I was wandering what the most active rear air shocks are?
Currently have a rp23 tune to make it more active. Its still not as responsive as i would like and have been thinking about swapping out when I can afford it. I have a 2007 meta 5.5 so space is probably restricted to non piggy backs.
Anyone have experience on this?
Ta
😯 ?
Pivot bearings and a shock service are the first things to do.
Swap to coil - job done! 😀
You could be onto something with the bearings. Shock was serviced not so long ago so not sure its that.
Rorschach - why the smiley? Just thinking about trying a different shock as I've read that it can change the handling of a bike quite dramatically. I'm not looking for skill compensator, just a way to change the characteristics the way I like them.
Edit: Mamadirt - I've looked into coils in the past and havent found a definitive answer on if it will fit. Otherwise a pushed van r will get got 😉
Meta with a coil shock. If not, try a Monarch RC3 Plus and return it within 7 days if it doesn't fit.
Heres a how to
http://www.commencalownersclub.com/index.php?action=printpage;topic=2813.0
Glad I never got a Meta, my Monarch is great for general trail riding (perfect even) but blows through it's travel to easily on rockier dh terrain.
Do you mean make it more active on small bumps? That's just down to the right compression tune but may make it bobbins for bigger bumps. It's more a question of frame design.
bwaarp - Member
Heres a how tohttp://www.commencalownersclub.com/index.php?action=printpage;topic=2813.0
Glad I never got a Meta, my Monarch is great for general trail riding (perfect even) but blows through it's travel to easily on rockier dh terrain.
That's 09 onwards, I had a DHX Air with piggy back on my '08 with no filing down of the valve!
First thing to do OP is remove the shock and cycle the suspension through its full range by hand. Should be virtually no friction at all.
If that's okay, the other things to consider are the reducer/bushings on the top link* (has a lot of rotation) and the shock itself (you could get this tuned by TF or Loco) or it could just be friction from the seals if it hasn't been serviced for a long while.
* I think the RockShox/TF Strong Bush design is much better than the top-hat Fox version which seems very sticky in use
You may reach a point where you're fighting the inherent suspension geometry with regard to how it's intended to move the shock in the early stages of its travel - mostly to avoid bob which I can imagine beign pretty bad if you have too 'soft' a shock for small bumps.