Having just done this, I opted for their 60 lux one and ride with it mostly on unlit country roads. It's just about enough if you're tanking along. I wouldn't go for the lesser lamp as you'll end up spending any money you've saved on wheel rebuilds once you've climbed out of the potholes you end up in 🙂
I bought this one. You can get it cheaper from bike discount (iirc) but the package I bought from Rose was cheaper overall:
[url= http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/b--m-lumotec-iq-cyo-t-senso-plus-60-lux/aid:457434 ]Loits from Ze Garmens[/url]
Yes, probably not enough for unlit roads...
Another data point here:
I have the Philips SafeRide in both Dynamo (60lux) & Battery (80/20) versions. The fork crown-mounted 60 lux is borderline for unlit roads, although the beam shape is excellent. The battery version on the 'bars is perfect on unlit at 80 and pretty hopeless at 20, so I'd reckon that the B&M at 25 is designed for (sub-)urban use.
Thanks peeps. Will look at 60lux.
I cut my teeth night riding on 2.5/5W halogens so even 25lux should be an upgrade!
Al, I got a Schmidt Edelux from starbike in Germany, ~ £110 but an awesome light with a standlight capacitor. Light is directed down onto the road, less to blind oncoming traffic. I did a fair bit of riding on unlit roads and it was damn good. My riding buddies down the Pacific coast had them too, you could spot them in thick fog before you could see car headlights. I'm going to get another for my second tourer and just switch the wheel over.
http://www.starbike.com/p/SON-Edelux-LED-front-lamp-3291-en
This was useful when i was looking. Philips saferide/LBL seems to be very highly reccomended...
http://swhs.home.xs4all.nl/fiets/tests/verlichting/index_en.html#koplampen_met_afkapping_voor_dynamo
The B&M IQ Fly (40 lux) is bright enough for me, riding at a reasonable speed on unlit roads.
Though if buying a new one, its probably worth paying a bit more for the IQ Cyo. Note there's several versions of it - IQ Cyo (60 lux) and IQ Cyo R (40 lux). Both are the same total light output, but different beam shapes. I think the 40 lux version is more useful, as the light is spread out more, and avoids having a dark spot right in front of your bike.
I used to wire up two halogen lamps in series. Since dynamos are constant current devices, there isn't really an issue one you get above 10 mph. Worked fine for unlit lanes. Modern LED lamps are much more efficient, bit not a lot brighter, the Exposure one being the exception.
I'd go for the Edelux, as the brake bolt mounting looks spot on.
Modern LED lamps are much more efficient, bit not a lot brighter
Halogen bulbs are about 15 lux - the Cyo is 60 and the Edelux is about 80.
So quite a bit brighter 😉
OK just looking through the B&M catalogue to order lights (trade account with UK importer).
Is it just me or is the naming system a complete friikin nightmare? I have no idea what to get, esp considering this from HH's link:
Busch & Müller IQ Cyo RT (= Cyo Nahfeld with daylight running lights)Tested: 17 Nov. - 6 Dec. 2010
Worst bicycle headlamp I've ever seen despite the fact that it gives a wider and brighter beam than halogen lamps. The beam is a weird trapezoidal shape with very sharp cutoff and very sharply defined corners. These give a feeling of being trapped in a tunnel of light. I suppose it's hard to imagine that if you haven't experienced it. The sharp corners and the fairly strong hotspot attract your attention which is bad. The daylight running lights are annoying because of their colour (blue with a bit of purple), and because they are not diffuse and point sources of light. The beam is very weak, especially if you aim it far (so that you have light up to ca. 40m), it is much weaker than the Edelux, Philips SLD and Trelock LS885.
More details: Dynamo headlamp: Müller IQ Cyo RT (= Cyo Nahfeld with daylight running lights)
Note: This review is of course only relevant for the Cyo R and RT (for the R, disregard the parts in the review about the daylight running lights) which is the near field version of the Cyo (= 40 lux Cyo), not the Cyo sport (= 60 lux Cyo). The Cyo 60 has the same beam shape as the Edelux and is almost as bright as the Edelux.
*confused*
Get the 60lux Cyo. Fantastic light.
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/b&m-hl.asp
this explains the CYO models well.
I have the non R version, which has no reflector and has 4 m of dark in front of the bike. to be honest i have no idea why anyone is looking 4 meters in front of the bike.
the light is great. 60 Lux is enough to ride on unlit roads - biggest issue is adjusting your eyes after being blinded by super bright car lights.
There's one version with a USB charging port I'd be look at if I were in the market for a decent dynamo front light. As per comment about naming conventions, ISTR that it's another jumble of alphanumeric characters.
Ah so the R and RT are the 40 lux nearfield ones = crap, the T has the day-running lights = possibly overkill, the Cyo IQ is what I need?
Dare I ask about their rear lights?
Yup, IQ Senso Plus.
At the back, they're all good - the DT+ and DT Flat are similar output but different shape, the Linetec is a strip light not a single point - small and neat.
just checked the invoice mine is IQ Cyo N Plus.
that's the simplest brightest CYO.
as for rear lights: i'd like a phillips safe ride lightring buit can't find one for sale.
Basic breakdown of the acronyms (may not be entirely accurate):
Plus: It's got a standlight so stays on when you stop
IQ: New design of reflector, making it brighter and better beam spread
N: switched, for a hub dynamo
Senso: swtiched, but with a light sensor so can run in Auto mode
T: signal LEDs, at low power in daylight (like a car running lights)
Thanks Ben. I think my problem is the plethora of models, a naming system that seems to overlap...and is not followed by the importer's price list! 😡
I have to say the 40 lux R models look tempting as it's mostly for commuting, are they as bad as HH's link?
Do we think the T system is worth using?
Ah so the R and RT are the 40 lux nearfield ones = crap, the T has the day-running lights = possibly overkill, the Cyo IQ is what I need?
The nearfield (R) lights are ok, still kicks out enough light to see at speed but it does have a defined edge so tight corners at speed are an issue, not a problem on a tourer/slow-commuter, wouldnt want one on a road bike tho. The signal LED (T) are rubbish tho, the main issue is it they are used as the standlight when stopped and are pretty poor for visibility compared to the capacitor run main LED. [EDIT: Just fitted an RT to my tourer, fine for my needs but not great]
Reccomend the IQ Cyo plus, either N or senso versions, your choice.
If you can afford it the Edeluxe is marvelous, I love mine for night road rides.
I'd go for the Cyo Senso Plus - bright, good light spread, and will control front and back lights automatically.
Edelux also wonderful - they actually use a Cyo light unit with different circuitry and an aluminium body for cooling to get more output.
Dare I ask about their rear lights?
Al, these are really good if you have a rack.
http://www.starbike.com/p/Busch-M%FCller-Toplight-Line-plus-rear-carrier-light-323ALT-3706-en
CHers Pete, I've ordered the brake-light version 😎
Al, Andreas took ths vid of us in the Californian Redwoods one anded. Berthold and I had the same non brake light version. It's pretty bright in daylight, really good in the dark.
I'm looking forward to seeing if drivers behave any differently when I am lit up like Xmas 😀
Well, £125 worth of LEDs has arrived and will be fitted at lunchtime for some driver-blinding action later.
I would like to see this, considering a proper gents bike with dynamo action.
Bring your lovely Mrs and yourself round for dinner then!
Oh aye, i got your text. Let me look at the diary. She is away in Swissland next week for doc.
Watcha buy?
B&M 60 lux headlight and brake enhanced line-tec rear light.
Looks bright in the stand.
EDIT workshop daytime test suggests it's as bright as a vision 1 😀
Yup, output in lumens should be on a par with Vision 1, Joystick etc... but it's in a controlled beam so the resulting lux - and more importantly the effect on the road - is much better. (And also means a distinct absence of driver-blinding action.)
Welcome to Dyno Club 😉
That's the light I use for commuting (the 60 lux one without the silly shaped reflector). It's a good un. I bought the top line rear light as well a couple of weeks ago but yet to fit it.
I'm waiting for the new one with 70 LUX and a USB Charger 🙂
Got the top line plus, it looks great. Have had a IQ Fly for many years which is awesome on the road. Just be careful if you turn the bike upside down and spray water on them - killed my first one that way.
ooOOoo - Member
Just be careful if you turn the bike upside down
NEVER!
The USB one looked lovely but £140 or whatever RRP was a bit steep (mine was £85 but I got it trade).
Well I hope you paid less than £60 for it otherwise you should have gone to Rose. They do a fantastic offer on a Shimano/Mavic wheel as well.
[url= http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/b--m-lumotec-iq-cyo-t-senso-plus-60-lux/aid:457434 ]Light here[/url]
Trade is £51 inc VAT - you see how LBS can't compete with online?
Well it is pretty bright - not life changing and TBH not as bright as I was expecting, but good enough for night riding on unlit roads. It seems like I am being given a wider berth by overtaking cars with the new rear light - the top part lights up as a strip, and brightens under braking!
Al, you'd be surprised how bright they are from a distance.
Where'd you run the cable to that Top Line?
There are a couple of spade connectors at the back.
Miles, did you buy a complete dynamo wheel from Germany for not a whole lot of Euros? ...or was it someone else?
It was me:
[url= http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/atb-front-wheel-28--mavic-a-319--shimano-dh-3n80/aid:581967 ]Cheap 700c dyno hub wheel[/url]
As for Al's wiring, I can't see where he's run it to the light (i know how it connects). Mine doesn't look that neat 🙁
That's not my pic - I ran mine along the rear brake cable then rack to the spades as Pete says.
Same here 🙂 it looks crap compared to your pic but I suspect that Top Line is not actually wired up.
Wiring could be run up NDS stay and rack stay - would look guff from any other angle though!
Wiring could be run up NDS stay and rack stay
That's how I routed mine

