[Closed] Lumicycle Halogen > LED Kit Vote

Foxyrider; does either do a kit you can just drop into Lumi cans? I can't see one on either site

The aim of this post was to try and see if Troutie/BCT would assemble a kit. Looks like Troutie has the heatsinks made up but the LED units are all out. BCT makes the drivers. I expect Troutie, when he get the XPG's in will supply the whole kit to drop in i.e. switch, wiring looms, driver, LED and heatsink but were gonna have to wait a bit 🙂 YOu can grab and XPE kit off him I think - try giving him an email if so?

Cheers for the replys guys, have emailed trout. will email BCT when i get a responce from trout.

Rusty

How do I go about ordering or contacting the person who is selling making the parts for the lights ?

Yep got plenty of heatsinks
a few modules 90% completed with XPEs in. but damn cold in the garage at the moment .

may have some Xpg modules soon too

XPG =. floody beam
XPE =. Spot beam

I Think BCT is working on a slightly new design driver and may have sold out of the others .

if you mail me and don't get a reply in a day or so. try again. as mails seem to by disappearing somewhere in virgin media space.

Cheers for the update trout

YGM troutie 🙂 Thanks for the update 🙂

I Think BCT is working on a slightly new design driver and may have sold out of the others .

Yeah, I thought BCT was working on a heatsink that allowed the driver (new) to be attached on one side & the LEDs on the other. He was talking of supplying everything you need to get going apart from the LED & optics, all soldered together in a kit. Just needed the LED board soldering on (I think) and that was it.

All gone a bit quiet though.

To be honest guys. Using Trouts module and ordering a driver from BCT and soldering them together is extremely simple. The instructions that come with the driver are simple if you don't get involved in the techno stuff. +ive to +ive etc for the LED's and PWR, you just need to decide if you want full power and off or mid, full and remove the power cable for off. It really is not difficult.

Paul.

Yup i'm in for the bits and assemble them myself but as I am lazy I was happy to pay a bit more and get all the bits in one bag 🙂

Any of you in the Stockport direction may have just witnessed the sign of light dawning...

I wondered what SpeshPaul was talking about when he said he'd posted my drawing on the lumicycle thread - I'd not realised there were two and have only just stumbled across this one!

Where to start.....

Basically, it seems that I'm not going to get any heatsinks done through work. Internal politics is making it too messy. No-one has got back to me regarding the posted drawing so unless emails have gone astray (I seem to be having similar issues to Troutie as I'm on VM as well) then it isn't looking good for these from my end.

However, those that Troutie have done seem great to me. The one thing I'd not realised is that I'd designed the lumicycle driver based on the LED board having two pin connections in the middle. Looks like the newer XPE/G boards don't have that - the driver was in effect intended to hang off the LED board. If you look at
http://www.flickr.com/photos/50439158@N02/4631185669/in/photostream/
you may get the idea. I've got these drivers, had them ages but not been able to sort heatsinks. If they can be fitted in Troutie's heatsinks then I can supply no problem, if the standard drivers fit then that is fine also. I designed the lumi one to sit flat across the can to leave more space for the switch etc.

The new boards have been up and around for a while - check my eBay shop. I've combined the standard and dim-mode ones but they are now slightly larger to aid cooling. I have also now added 500mA and 830mA to the standard range as an experiment - not sold any 500s yet but have done a few 830s. I've posted before that I think 1A is too much for the halogen can but the 830 should be a good compromise. Should note that 670 and lower is a different PCB and is about the same size as the old driver. At lower currents heat isn't an issue and I've been able to cost-reduce some parts to get the price down. Hope they don't prove too popular though as I got fewer of that size than of the 1A size as in the past 1A had been by far the best seller.

I've also go a bag of centre-off switches that use the same boot as the standard lumicycle switch so you can change the switch over and get off / on / dim power modes.

I'm also looking at doing something for the HID can - I've got a driver board prototype made up but am having the same hassle getting heatsinks. (Sorry, Scott if you are reading this! I've not forgotten...)

Troutie - would it be worth me sending you a lumicycle-type driver to see if they can be used with your heatsink? Also, if I get a drawing made up of the HID heatsink do you think there is any chance you could get some of those made up as well? (BTW, did email you a few weeks back about the small batch of drivers you'd enquired about, don't know if you didn't get the email or you just don't need them any more)

BCT

I am looking at building 2 of these kits what is the best way to organise getting 2 of the 830mA Driver circuits and 2 of the 3 position switches.

These are going to be run from a Li-Ion battery from Smudge which will be 15v 5.2 Ah will that be too much for the drivers?

Cheers

Rusty

Hi Steven Is it this one

[IMG] [/IMG]

It could be used but would be easier if you removed the pins
and I bored the hole wider when it could be wired direct .

Send me a drawing and I will get a price for you
also depends on how many you want .

Im glad its not just happening to me the emails going missing
at least it proves it is a VM thing not a My computer .

Yup, that's the one. Removing the pins is no problem. I've only fitted them to a few of the ones I've built up and can make use of them with the few heatsinks I managed to get done. Main question is would it offer any advantage over my standard ones or are we just adding complexity? Hassle could be mounting it to prevent shorting - it was relying on the LED connections being fixed to hold it off the heatsink.

Hi,
For those of you sat on the sideline wondering if you can do this conversion, I have just done my third one. This time a Troutie XPG with the 960mA board and incorporated the dimming feature, no extra resistor fitted. (At first I thought I may have over cooked it with the bigger board, but we shall see.)
Outcome - The dipping works well, has to how much light output I have not got a clue, but it is less bright than full beam and slightly brighter than the XPE.
Output - compared to the XPE with the smaller board 670mA, it just burns it out at close quarters. I have only ridden a Km or two this eve with the lights and having the XPE on alongside the XPG, on high or low, makes a significant improvement on the distance lit up, which it should do as it is a spot.
As I said before, the XPE blew the halogens away, the XPG with this board is a significant step up from the XPE in output. I don't think I will have to slow down on night rides now, and nobody can get away with saying they didn't see me coming!

Just waiting for the next XPG modules to be available to do the son's or is that mine, feel there may be some fighting going on as to who get's this one!

Paul.

Hi Paul

how are you finding the fit in the can out of curiosity .

its supposed to be tight are you having any issues pressing it in

BCT - just realised you'd responded to this thread.

I have noticed on your ebay shop you now have the 830mA driver available. Can this driver be wired up with a resistor, as I did the orignal ones I purchased from yourself with a 3-way switch that enables low, high, off? I notice the connections are slightly different. Or does it now do this on the board?

I also noticed you have the 970mA 'old' style driver which looks the same as the ones I purchased previously (but it's now black, not green).
Can this be run as I mention above with a resistor to enable low/high/off? It might be a better option for me, if the 830mA one can't be run in this manner.

I'd be interested in converting my second Lumi can which is currently still running a halogen and should probably start getting some bits together.
I'd also be interested in a couple of switches, so long as these ones would be able to run in an off/high/low sequence as the switch I have fitted to the first one does. I suspect it will as it's probably the same swithc - I got mine from Maplin.

Could you let me know whether you'd like me to order through ebay or sort something out outside of it, so you can avoid charges.....??

Hi Trout,

No problem with fitting. One of the XPE's was quite tight and needed a bit of pressure for it to go in the can, it certainly will not come out without the can being drilled and pushed / forced out. The XPG not quite as tight,push fit with hands. None of them will come out under their own movement. Can on radiator, module in freezer!
Paul.

Ohh I am starting to get excited again - Heloo - me me me 😉 want some want some 🙂

The 970mA drivers are the tail end of my old stock that I'm clearing out. All new drivers have the dim mode built in but still allowing shutdown as well, in other words the resistor you used to have to add externally is now on the board. There are three control terminals, you just wire a switch directly to them.

There are two sizes of board now, a smaller one for 670mA and below which allows me to use some cheaper parts to keep the cost down, and a larger one which gives better heat dissipation for the higher current drivers. Functionally the same though.

I added 500mA and 830mA to broaden the range, they are the same basic unit. Reduced power mode is set to about 40% on these, you can still use an external resistor to alter this if you want.

Forgot to add, general rule for forum members is you are welcome to contact me direct and I'll knock the 10% eBay fee off whatever you want to buy.

Thanks for the information BCT. Just what I was after.

I will be ordering a couple of the 830mA ones, then.

Paul, I hear what you say but am still a tart.

i'd prefer to give someone cash to do it for me TBH.

Phew the little beggers have arrived at last
but only 25 .

will assemble some in the next day or so and try to find the emails
of interested parties if you have mailed me it wouldnt hurt to do it again .

I have got yours Foxy and a couple of others .

post may be a problem with santa clogging up the post bags though .

Marc.

happy to do an upgrade for some beers

ygm

Trout

You have mail and money

Thanks

Russell

BCT I think I still have the dimensions for the heatsinks I managed to get made for my HID conversions.

mail,me and i'll get the details to you.

The good thing is that I manged to source some ally bar off Ebay and it is excatly the right diameter, so the only maching is parting off to the correct length and hollw out of the back.

good thing about the HID ones is there is loads more room in the back of those cans.

Thanks Troutie - I paypal'd this morning so whenever you have time to post them will be great - and dependent on the weather!!!

Cheers 🙂

Thanks fella`s will get them assembled tomorrow and in the christmas mail so dont know how long they will take to get to you all .

Trout,
Do you have another XPG for me please? Email or leave a message here.

Merry Christmas to you all.

Paul.

Hi Paul

Yes should have rapidly losing count damn things going like hot cakes .
and bloody cold in the garage too .

Brrrrr - Will there be a sub-zero assembly surcharge? 😉

Should be a fuel surcharge but as no fuel gets used in the garage

really regret not having a flue for a stove when the roof was done .

We do appreciate it Troutie however if you get frost bike then were all scuppered so be careful 🙂

Funny the kids dont bring there mates around our house when Im home

[IMG] [/IMG]

compulsory atire in the cave .

LOL - you home alone then? Not watching Eastenders? LOL

Troutie did you get my payment?

Email sent Chris

Sorry for dipping in and out just recently, should have more time to contribute soon.

Just a quickie though, what is the recommended driver for use with the new heatsink? Does my standard one fit does anyone know or does it need to be the circular one? The question has been asked but as I'm not seen one of Troutie's heatsinks in the flesh I don't know the answer!

Hi BCT,

If its the heatsink for the standard Lumi can, then the drivers I have had off you recently, 960 and 670 bought in pairs, fit with absolutely loads of room with Trouties heatsink, I did wonder what people had been on about with regard to the lack of space. If I have time over the next day or so I will mail you a photo, I have one made to your dimension for comparison.

Paul.

Mr Trout where are you?

Not heard back from you since I paid you.

Have you done a runner with my £27? 😉

Has anyone heard from Chris lately?

Yup he's been on the other LED thread very recently - He has said he has posted a lot of stuff but I know stuff that is well an truly stuck in the postal system!

theres millions of parcels languishing in warehouses due to the weather and xmas rush just have to be patient

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/diy-700-lumen-batteries-inside-light/page/30

Hi Guys ( waves from the Bahama`s ) .

I wish

I have a few to pack and post and have been a bit slack lately due to people needing to have their floors down by christmas ( Why )
been all work and sleep this last 2 weeks .

Have been following this read with interest and bewilderment for a while.

Understand there's not likely to be a drop-in kit coming, but what are the parts needed to do a complete conversion? Preferably with variable brightness options.

You essentially need 2 kits, one from Trout which will have the heat sink led's and optics then a second kit form BCT which will have the driver with built in resistor and a 3 position switch.

Just to say thanks to Troutie - Received my Optics and heat sinks today (posted 24/12) - many thanks look great should get the driver from Stephen Tomorrow and I got the weekend to assemble them 🙂

[img] [/img]

Great foxy was just going through the emails and saw yours so dont now need to reply

Dont forget it is a very tight fit so will be difficult to remove once done if you need to make alterations .

No probs - Insertion is the last job 😉

Quick message also to say thanks to trout, recieved the two optics and heat sinks this evening when i got home from work.

Foxyrider, what drivers did you go for in the end?

Cheers again

Rusty

I went for the 830ma as advised by Stephen - could have run more but I think the output is more than enough and will run me battery down a bit less 🙂 Maybe last longer as well?

Cheers Foxyrider,

That was what i was thinking of going for. just sent BCT an email so will hopefully get them early in the new year to build the cans back up.

I think he is on hols until next week as I got an auto reply the day he was "leaving" 🙂

good to know ta

I received my [s]toilet roll[/s] heatsink and optic yesterday as well.Also waiting on the driver as well.

LOL - yeh great use of a toilet roll - I was impressed 🙂

Oiy it was not a bog roll it came out of the christmas wrapping paper . 😉

the cheapo bum fodder my SO buys the core was not suitable .

Good bit of recycling - very commendable 😉

Wooo hooo,

All parts have now arrived, a couple of quick questions for all of you that have wired up the lights.

I have a blue and a brown wire from the led's. I would like to think i can presume Brown is +VE and Blue is -VE but there is one thing i have learned, that presumption can easily lead to the mother of all **** ups.

When I come to wring the 3 position switch I see I simply wire pin to pin, does this put high at the top or bottom?

When wiring power I realise this is very important so I don't fry the circuit and I know the centre pin of the power connector is +VE so that shouldn't be too much of a problem.

cheers

Rusty

Yup blue -ve and Brown +ve

Yup - mice came pre-wired but I think it is pin to pin 🙂
[b]
Oh and older lumi batteries (if you are using one of these) are reverse polarity plugs - inner core -ve and outside +ve !!![/b]

Have you got a test meter to be sure?

[img] [/img]

I've just ordered some XPG's, a new optic and BCT's 830mA driver to convert my second can....

His latest driver has the resistor for the off/low/high mode already on the board.
Messed up the order for the optics (20mm, not 32mm MR11) but a kind gent from Cutter e-mailed to check my order, so I have clarified with him what I actually want and should be getting them soon-ish!!

Can't wait to get the second can going. The single can with the Spokeshirts light on my helmet is more than enough, but I've got plenty of spare battery power so am thinking that I might as well make the most of it. I estimate both Lumi cans running on high will give me 6hrs run time.

I'm tempted to get a quote from Lumi for splitting my battery down into two smaller batteries. Will decide once I've run the dual cans for a while.

Cheers for the quick email foxy, was a typo by me i ment to put centre -VE.

No probs - just didn't what you to fry the board 😯

Got my bits from BCT today. Do I need thermal paste for the driver to heatsink?

No - I asked all this a few weeks ago 🙂

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/lumican-led-conversion-stupid-question

Holy thread resurrection, Batman...

having received three slugsworth of photon goodness (thanks Troutie!) I'm vascillating over how hard to drive 'em.
One narrow is relatively straightforward, and is gonna get a b(2)flex, on account of it'll be one of two commute lights on the front of my recumbent...more flexibility/runtime is better (albeit at ~17 quid more than a bct driver) - and low volt detect is v. handy 'cos it'll be past my feet, where I won't see it dimming under street lighting..

If I were to use the other two together - wide and narrow (probably wide on the bars)- what are relatively sensible drives for each? eg would running both at 830mA work ok, without one swamping the other, or would an 830/670 or 980/830 combinations be better? - I'd guess with the wide being at the higher drive ?

BTW - in case anyone's curious about led voltages, I've checked out each on a bench power supply at 0.8A
wide : 8.8v
narrow1 : 9.4v
narrow2 : 9.6v

*bump*

anyone ?

Hey [b]jond[/b]

I went 830mA in both of mine, one is XPE one is XPG with the idea one would compliment the other, used to run one 20w tight and one 20w wide beam halogen and figured this set up would be the same but brighter.

Excellent - thanks Rusty, I'll get ordering the controllers 🙂

Jond,
probably a bit late now but I made up 5 lights with the 980mA driver and all but one have bust (overheating?). I have an old 670mA led that has been bullet proof and just keeps on going so Im going to rebuild them all as 670ma.
Anyone had any over heating issues with the 830mA?

Yes - I had an email from a guy with a twin set and the 830ma driver burnt out as well?

That was me and it was 980mA supplied by Troutie. Don't know whether it burned out or just failed. It was replaced with 980mA and that seems to have packed up as well
But after talking to the BC/Richard he doesn't recommend drivers for Lumi cans as the cans very hard to effectivily heatsink.
Richard recommends the 830mA.
Its only £7 direct.

Sorry Paul - could remember what driver you had 🙂

I had quite an enlightening email from Richard.

Did you see what i did there:-)

LOL

Must admit I still haven't got around to lobbing the lot together yet - having measured the voltages on them I've since mixed 'em up, and the all-singing/dancing lab psu have been tied up elsewhere.

I bought a pair of the 830mA drivers, so fingers crossed - p'raps I ought to see if I can get some sort of heat-sinking between the controller and can, but it's bound to be fiddly..

Interesting that the 980's failed - I've also bought a bflex (well, b2flex as it is now) to use as commuting light, I was thinking of setting the upper limit as 1A, and that's got me wondering. But it does have a settable overtemperature detect onboard, admittedly that's on the controller board but at least it'll be vaguely indicative of the temperature inside the can.