Just a thought exercise here. I'm guessing the answer is no, or at least not in a package that anybody would want to ride. You could make the chainstays shorter than on a 26" bike, but probably not with rear suspension and without it the ride would be too harsh. You could raise the BB, but that would make it a lot less stable all round. Any other options, or will it always be a case of "bigger wheels roll over stuff easier but take more work to lift the front wheel"?
Yes, its called a Canfield Nimble 9, steel 29er, I can manual and wheelie mine easily and its singlespeeded.....
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[quote=roverpig ]will it always be a case of "bigger wheels roll over stuff easier but take more work to lift the front wheel"?
Not with the right skillzzzzzzz
Yes, make the wheels smaller.
I find it easier to manual my 26" HT than my 20" BMX, and a 29er is much closer to a 26er than a 26er is to a 20er. Now when I say easier, I mean I can control it better - it takes more power to get up but I have plenty of that and not a lot of finesse!
My 29er is actually easier to manual than the 26er it replaced. Both Scandals....
Oh noes. Another 26er vs 29er myth just exploded.
Thanks folks.
OK, so I guess there are two parts to a manual/wheelie; lifting the wheel and keeping it up. The former is harder with a larger wheel, but the latter may be easier.
Of course, I'm not doubting that some people can manual a 29er, but it's always going to be harder to lift that front wheel, right?
The Nimble 9 is the same geometry as the Yelli Screamy right?
Of course, I'm not doubting that some people can manual a 29er, but it's always going to be harder to lift that front wheel, right?
How much do you weigh? How much does your bike weigh? How far do you really need to move to seesaw the front up around the rear contact patch? Not a lot!
How much do you weigh? How much does your bike weigh? How far do you really need to move to seesaw the front up around the rear contact patch? Not a lot!
You are right; in theory the difference shouldn't be that much. But in practice I find that I can easily dump myself on my back if I get over enthusiastic on the Trance, but can't get the front wheel of the FF29 up very high no matter how hard I try. I was quite surprised by the difference since, as you say, the extra weight required shift shouldn't be that much.
Obviously it's just a matter of practice, but it got me thinking about whether it would be possible to design a 29er where the front wheel was as easy to lift as a 26" trail bike and what sacrifices you'd have to make for that (since all bikes are a compromise).
Ride 21"+ bikes here so wheelbase didn't hugely change. Generally running bars higher than I used to on 26" bikes so it's been easier if anything.
Chainstays are 25mm longer on my Stumpy FSR 29er, than my 26" Five.
My Trek 29er is far easier to manual than the Giant 26er it replaced, both XC orientated geometry.
People have been manualling road bikes for years, see Robbie McEwen and Peter Sagan.
Yes. Put a different rider on it. My 29er can manual very well. It's me who can't!
My Buzzard (similar geo to Canfield) is easier to manual than my C456