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A per previous post earlier in thread the TRP HyRds you have are good if setup correctly but set up poorly are a pain. The screw in check is important. I too over tightened the cables to stop the levers going to the bar - kind of the lazy fix. A bleed and re-setup with a bit more care and they are sharp to the feel with a short enough lever throw and the actuator lever properly positioned (so the locking nut can go straight in). Some lever don't work well with them though, older shimano levers with different cable pull ratios particularly. It pays to read the instructions with these rather than just wing it because you've done enough fettling you think you know it all (this was me).
Whilst mine are fine I would never buy them now. When I got mine fully hydro road levers were only just arriving and super spendy. With them appearing in the mid range groupsets now HyRDs make no sense now as a new purchase. A weird mutant idea that came and went in a blink an eye... they are to road biking what the under stay U brake (remember them) was to mountain biking.
No rubbing on mine (11spd 105, don't know the proper code for them off the top of my head).
This, with through axles too.
My ht/rd only make problems on the grade when I take a wheel out, few minutes faff with qr tensions and I get them not rubbing
I ran BB7s on my commuting bike for 9 or 10 years. They were OK, but I had problems with corrosion and found they needed regular fiddling to stop rubbing and maintain performance.
I switched to Hy-Rds a few years ago, and the hydraulic action and self centering have been a big improvement. I did have a problem with one of the front pistons not retracting fully, and the discs slightly rubbing when I got out of the saddle. Bleeding and cleaning didn't seem to make any difference. I contacted TRP (brakes well out of warranty by now) just to ask for advice, and they immediately sent me a new set. The pistons appear to have changed on the newer model, and they've behaved pretty well, but the slight disc rub still occurs sometimes on the front brake.
I wasn't happy with the lever travel on the Hy-Rds. As someone else mentioned above, there's far too much travel, and I had to pull the levers right in to actuate the brake. I got a great tip to fix this from an internet blog. If you remove the cable clamp plate and refit on the underside of the caliper arm, you can clamp the cable on the inside of the clamp bolt instead of the outside. This changes the actuation so you get full braking with "normal" lever movement. A colleague of mine actually tried this out yesterday after I mentioned it to him, and was effusive about the improvement in the brake feel.
At some point I'll upgrade from 9 speed groupset and I'll be looking at full hydros as the end game, but for now I find the Hy-Rds a good solution, and much better than calipers on the work bike.
I haven't read the whole thread through but if the grade has QR wheels then I'd check that first, I bought some aksium disc wheels for my commuter and the QRs couldn't hold the back wheel straight in the frame with my massive power. Had to nick the shimano skewers off my old bike and that sorted it.
18 months on discs for me, bit of a faff, but for all weather commuting I wouldn't go back to rim brakes. For a leisure bike that would be ridden when the weather was nice and roads were quiet I'd not be too bothered either way
My BB5 has been much better since I changed to sintered pads and replaced the rear cable/outer, that does go offroad in all weathers so isn't really a road bike, still rubs now and then but hasn't required as much adjustment...
I just fitted a cheap tektro MTB cable caliper on the front of my commuter, along with long pull levers and that seems to perform much better than I expected, time will tell of course.
I had always assumed the squealing was oil splashing up off the road, as it never really happens off road.
The salt in winter ruins pads really fast.
The plot thickens. Took the bike off the car this morning ready to ride in, checked the back QR was tight and realigned the caliper in the car park before setting off. Got to work and the back wheel was dragging again. Checked the QR and it had loosened off again, despite being 'bastard' tight 20 miles previously. Which leads me to 2 potential conclusions 1) My mega wattage is pulling the back wheel out the dropout or 2) The QR is goosed/not up to the job. As much as I'd like to believe its 1), I'm pretty certain it's probably more likely to be 2) and therefore I'm looking at those DT skewers this morning.
Good tip on changing the way the cable tightens against the arm, will give that a try tonight too. For reference I'm running them with compression-less cables and 5800 levers so in theory they should work OK.
Sram Rival hydros here which although not as bad as Avids I have owned , are still not as good as the Ultegras a couple of my mates are running. Mine seem to decide to drag or squeal at random points in a ride while the Shimano gang appear to have no such problem.
However I still find the predictability of discs preferable to the "will they, won't they" of rim brakes in the wet.
KCR, any pics of what you mean about bolting the cable up differently?
My TRP cables have been a pain, reducing lever throw and taking up slack means nobrakes so set them back up as stock and they work much better, winding the pads in seems a better option. I don't get much rub but pads are nearly gone in 2 wet weeks use, admittedly alot of brake dragging on fireroads.
Whilst mine are fine I would never buy them now. When I got mine fully hydro road levers were only just arriving and super spendy. With them appearing in the mid range groupsets now HyRDs make no sense now as a new purchase.
I'd second that - I got the Hy/Rds for the same reasons, would get 105 hydro now for sure.
It's been mentioned but I always use soft/organic pads - just don't get the wear on that bike that the mtb has to put up with.
105 level Hydros here (the ones with the ugly/uncomfortable hoods) on my Arkose 3.
They are very temperamental, and prone to squealing/fading if they are contaminated in any way.
I swapped the sintered pads which came with them for cheapo Shimano resin versions which have been better.
I also swapped the rear disc for a new Shimano which has also helped.
Observations I've made -
They are very fussy about contamination - one stray speck of chain lube and they scream like a banshee. I've now taken to spraying them with brake cleaner after a dirty road ride.
I don't seam to get enough braking power from the hoods to really bed the pads in. There is a very steep decent near me which I use for 'conditioning' my brakes - if I brake from the hoods I don't get enough force to kill off any squeals - brake from the drops and it sorts it.
They seam to work better if they regularly get hot.
If/when the planets align, and everything works well they are awesome, especially in wet weather.
I'd not buy another bike with these brakes. However I understand the next level up 'Ultegra' brakes are a different design, so would be interested to try them.
As a comparison, my MTB often doesn't get ridden for one month to the next - the 3 year old Deore brakes sometime give the odd chirp early in a ride, then stop me like race-car brakes.
[i]Checked the QR and it had loosened off again[/i]
I was gonna ask, are they DT? Then you said you're looking at getting DT?! DT are the only skewers I've ever had come loose! Shimano or Mavic, you need.
Mavic are also shoot IME. Shimano or nothing for me.
Nothing didn't work very well though.
DezB - current ones are Mavic! Shimano next up then!
Thanking you! Will buy some now!
OP, it seems that you are not the only person with problems related to tight cable adjustment causing rubbing and rapid pad wear.
Check this [url= http://https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/trp-hyrd-brakes.207125/ ]other cycling forum[/url]
12 months and probably 1500 miles of really gritty crap all over mine and no issues.
I hard to realign the caliper after i was hit by a minibus but I don't think i can blame the brakes for that.
FWIW I've got through 3 or 4 pairs of pads in 12 months and 9000 miles.
Generally use standard shimano resin pads.