[Closed] Installing brakes without having to bleed

All you have to do is avoid losing any fluid at all from them!!

You could be lucky or just be prepared to bleed them

I fear with the internal routing you are in for bleeding them.

Factory bleeds are generally pretty poor, so a bleed is worthwhile regardless of routing, but with internal routing it would almost certainly benefit from a bleed.

Thanks guys, figured that might be the case 😕 I’ll have to wait until pay day and invest in a bleed kit.

I did it once. Plugged the disconnected end with a bit of plastic with tape over it.

Feed it through and connected back to the lever. Worked fine... But I did it fully expecting to need a bleed,I think a bit of it comes down to luck. So give it a try but having a bleed kit ready to hand is advisable.

Plus an olive etc etc.

If its the lever end you are disconnecting and you squeeze the lever first ( careful not to move the pistons too far) then when you reassemble push the pistons back any tiny bubbles will end up in the master cylinder. Still not perfect as depending on the design that bubble could go back into the line but I have used this technique successfully a couple of times

Coincidentally I did it earlier this week. I screwed a small screw into the end of the hose both to plug it and attach string to. Will upload a photo in a moment to clarify. Otherwise I followed the instructions on the epic bleeds website.

Mate has managed it, I'm too clumsy. Always end up flicking the hose sending oil everywhere.

It’s very much a ‘you might be lucky’ technique. Always best to assume you’ll need to bleed if you open the brake line. If you get lucky that’s a bonus but if the bike must remain rideable then don’t do it unless you have bleed kit handy.

Ive successfully done it a few times. With Hope and Shimano brakes.

Just get everything ready first i.e get the pull through wires in place. Have you got replacement olives and inserts? Have you got sharp cutters? The hoses are pretty tough to cut.

Be prepared to need to remove the entire fitting from the end of the hose, not a problem if you are shortening them anyway, as they seldom fit through the frame ports.

Remember to fit the frame grommets if there are any BEFORE you thread the first one, and the top one before you put the fitting back on.

I attach the calliper to the frame first, tape the hose near the lever to the pull through wire, unscrew the fitting from the lever and place the lever on your bench with the hole uppermost to avoid losing fluid. Don't squeeze the lever! Fit that bottom grommet. Pull the hose through from the bottom port and out of the top. Measure and cut the hose if needed, fit that top grommet. Fit new insert and olive, reattach lever.

Removing the old olive and insert can be tricky, but if you are shortening the hose then yo just cut the cable.

Fitting the new olive can be a squeeze sometimes, a clean cut hose really helps. Some olives are split and you can tease them open a tiny bit with a small flat screwdriver to help get it over the hose, then squeeze it together again with a pair of pliers. But take care doing that.

Should all be good. You can pump the lever and tape it to the bar to hold the brake on for an hour or two or overnight to force any air up into the master cyclinder, but I've never needed to do that.

Depends but 99.9% of the time, a bleed it needed.

If you can remove the lever from the system with loosing fluid and then manage to thread the hose internally without loosing fluid, then all it should need before connecting to the hose is to trim the cable - again, without loosing fluid.

Cut hose, thread and rebled is probably best approach.

No idea about TRP but you can totally do an internal Shimano brake without a bleed.
Cut hose by master cylinder and plug both ends with self tapping screw with head no bigger than the hose O.D.
Route your hose.
Pull the rubber sleeve and compression nut and thread over hose.
Cut hose to length and install olive/barb. Use a couple of drops of fluid from the chopped end to top up olive /barb end (having just one end plugged with the screw stops the fluid leaking out)
Remove hose stub from lever and top off with any remaining drops from cut ends.
Tighten comp nut.
Cross fingers..
With the two self tappers you're only 'opening' the system for a couple of seconds and no worse then a simple L/R hose swap or front hose shorten.
If it's not firm then you might need a lever bleed.

FSA brakes... no chance of not needing a full bleed.

I've cut down hydro hoses several times, including for internal routed, without bleeding - though I wouldn't do it without a bleed kit to hand.

Assuming you are shortening / cutting the lever end, most fluid is lost from the lever, so make sure the lever screw port points upwards at all times. The hose will hold fluid like a straw closed at one end so I don't bother blocking it off, but generally try to keep it pointing upwards too after cutting and fitting new barb and olive.

Got this 'professional' kit from an eBay China seller recently including a SRAM bleeding edge port (for about a fiver more than the port by itself) the kit is really good!

Thanks everyone. I’ll get a bleed kit on pay day just to be safe then give it a go. I’ll report back if it goes horribly wrong.

Thinking this kit will do the trick?

http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/products/bleed-kits/tektro-trp/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx9GAv6GM4AIVAwvTCh1Pyw0PEAQYASABEgLSQPD_BwE#t-2