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They were £1.99 on planet X, I bought a gazillion of them. Might as well use em.
😉
Minor change on the Bird. It's now official that my Fox DPX2 has been stolen by the boy for his Sworks. Whoops. Wasn't my brightest idea fitting it to his bike for testing then.... but hey, you don't know what's better/worse until you try it.
So the Bird generally runs a 210*55 shock, the only shock i had in spares was a 210*52.5 so fractionally less travel, but Bird confirmed it'll be fine.
Removing my lads shock from his though does now free up a 210*55 which i've fitted to the Bird for tomorrows ride up at Sherwood Pines. I'll be curious to see how it feels. I'll also be taking some volume spacers to tune it if i get some time.
I'm also in some potential negotiations for a 210*55 DPX2 along with a CC DBIL air in a 210*55 but not sure yet how either of those discussions will go.
I’m also in some potential negotiations for a 210*55 DPX2
Consider the DPX2 bought... lol.. Ace service again from Bird Bikes.
It’s the same on some motorbike stuff, some are measured from fully clockwise, some from fully anti, so in effect you are technically doing the opposite of what you stated.
I noticed on the trailhead site, RockShox give rebound numbers from the slowest position, and the number given is negative - which makes sense. "10 clicks of rebound damping from zero" vs. "10 fewer clicks of rebound damping than the maximum available". IMO giving a positive number counted from the maximum damping end is not intuitive.
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51220036757_55cf8a396f_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51220036757_55cf8a396f_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2m395s2 ]2021-06-02_07-45-57[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
Went up to Sherwood Pines with Couchy yesterday for a play, first ride was a lap of the red on the Bird. I'd set it up with the Monarch R shock which for some reason, even with the pressures the same, the sag the same, the Monarch R feels a LOT closer to how i like bikes to feel, far more plush and compliant. Throughout the ride i just needed 2 clicks of tortoise as it was set a little fast on the rebound.
The ride itself was excellent, sure Pines isn't the hardest thing on the planet but it's mostly flowy fast fun. Couple of bits i don't much like with some weird rollers that kill all the fun of it, but other than that it's brilliant as far as entertainment goes 🙂
For some reason, the front end isn't quite as poppy as i think i'd like, but i've got some slightly higher rise bars arriving this week i'll try out to see if i can get it a bit more poppy.
Fine performance from the bike though, impressed.
It took me ages to find some but I fitted 40mm rise Renthal's on the Geometron. It makes it much more comfortable and easier to lift the front wheel. I don't think long reach bikes and flat or low bars mix very well.
Yeah I've only gone for 25mm rise, I'll see how they look unmounted and whether I think I should go even higher.
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51231039722_d4665d11fb_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51231039722_d4665d11fb_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2m47tfj ]lastjump2[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51232805390_ef220ebb06_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51232805390_ef220ebb06_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2m4gw7S ]lastjump5[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51231039777_706eb690e0_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51231039777_706eb690e0_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2m47tgg ]lastjump4[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
The bike has developed a creaky thing. Twice per pedal revolution, only when I'm pushing hard on pedals, which led me to think it was the bottom bracket, but seems not.
I've cleaned the pivots with the weirdest ever bolt configuration, swapped the saddle, cleaned the seatpost and clamp and swapped the pedals.
I'm Really hoping that's it done now as I'm not sure what else to swap. Can't swap the dropper as I don't have a spare, but can try a static post to test again. But it's not always present, it never appeared until 8km into the last ride and kinda came and went. It increases with cadence in relative terms. It's more of a clicky clicky than a grindy graunchy noise. Will be interesting to see when next out if we've fixed it!
They’re locking collets - they work brilliantly vs other fs arrangements I’ve had before.
Click click sounds like a bb / crank thing. I’ve got a bit of that now but I’m 99% sure it’s the gxp bb on it’s way out.
Check the lower shock bush.
Also check headset/stem/bars. I’ve had similar before and solved with a thorough clean and re-grease. Otherwise also do the same if you have a direct mount chainring. Raceface cinch especially.
They’re locking collets – they work brilliantly vs other fs arrangements I’ve had before.
Hopefully this is just a one off then.
Click click sounds like a bb / crank thing. I’ve got a bit of that now but I’m 99% sure it’s the gxp bb on it’s way out.
It does indeed sound like a BB/crank, i swapped the BB for another GXP, but due to stock levels in UK it's another used one, not new, so i can't be 100% it's perfect. But i've got a 3rd used one in spares too if i need to try it.
Check the lower shock bush.
Yeah should be good, all pretty new.
Otherwise also do the same if you have a direct mount chainring
IT's a SRAM GXP type with the 3 bolts on the back, checked them and all seem OK. I will whip them off and clean though if i still have any noise.
Question for you guys then..
Things like pivot bolts, shock bolts, etc, are you cleaning them and putting them in dry, or a light bit of clean grease on them ? I've always been a fan of a bit of grease on all of these sort of things. But curious to get others thoughts too.
Check the lower shock bush.
Yeah should be good, all pretty new.
So were mine and that was where my click/sticking came from. You could feel it as well as hear it though.
Loctite on the threads, light grease on the smooth bits (at least on the collet bolts) for me. AM9 with several bearing changes and nothing seized and no broken bolts.
Bird spec torque numbers and loctite grades on the data sheets and I'm sure have said to grease but I can't find that in writing at the moment!
So were mine and that was where my click/sticking came from. You could feel it as well as hear it though.
Going to have to wait 24-48 hours as my spares suspension drawer is right out of bushings ! Jeepers... thought i had half a dozen, so i've ordered a pile.
Flip the shock if you can. The upper bush rotates a lot less. If it's the bush then the noise should change or stop. Mine I could feel when hand compressing the suspension. Took it apart and reassembled with a tiny bit of grease. Was good for first ride but not had enough time to tell if the issue is sorted.
good shout.... i'll see how we go and find out.
When my lower bush went recently I could feel it as a small knock - it was the lower one that had gone but I just changed both I think (I forget now).
With the collet bolts I bluenloctite the threads and use waterproof grease as a light coating. I also tend to put a bit of waterproof grease on the face of the bearing seal to try and stop water etc getting in. So far so good - had an Aeris for 3 years and have had an Aether a year and a few months. I’m probably due to strip it down and check all the bearings soon, but I don’t have any play or squeaking yet so 🤷♂️
Edit - the postage cost from Bird for small items is quite expensive - so I picked up a replacement bushing kit and tool from offset bearings.com
Looks like lower shock bushing may be the culprit. Will confirm 100% but I think it's silent
I drove the youngsters over to Goring yesterday evening to jump. Took the Bird in the car too, so i could see how it did there. For the first time ever, i cleared the tabletop 5 times on the bounce. I never clear it every time, so that was pretty damn epic.
I don't know how much is the Bird being a better jumper bike than the G-160 or how much of it is me getting slightly better at jumping, but it actually felt like i could roll in at a lower speed and still clear the jump. Sure, i'm still a long long way from popping it as the 12 year olds do, but if i can land consistently on the down-side then i'm more than happy with that for a performance that's for sure.
I'm sure we'll be back there in another few days for more of the same. 😀
This time i'll be running a Fox DPX2 which arrives today.
I’m not good at jumping, but the Aether definitely pops better than the Aeris I had before it.
My new Fox DPX2 arrived today..."What, i thought you already had one".... No, that's ended up on the Sworks Enduro of the 12 year old, so i've been running the Rockshox Monarch Deluxe R.
The thing is, i'm really happy with the Monarch R and it feels lovely.... So if i'm going to keep the DPX2 it's going to have to be mind-blowing
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51236868035_0bb620cff6_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51236868035_0bb620cff6_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2m4CkNt ]2021-06-09_01-54-17[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
At the end of the day, i bought it for a great price considering it's almost brand new, so i won't have any trouble selling it on if i need to.
But i'll certainly be taking it out on the next jump sessions with the small ones.
Well I'm not exactly sure what to do here, the dpx2 feels soft and nice without doubt, but I'm not sure if it's any 'better' though, well I'm not actually sure how to define better. But in terms of, what is the better shock, a Deluxe R or a DPX2 I'm sure internet wisdom tells us the DPX2 is the superior shock, but how/why/what I don't really know.
Maybe I'm just not good enough to know better.
I don't exactly 'need' the money back for it, but I'm not seeing a lot of point keeping both shocks.
My only real debate is whether changing the shock bushings sorted the creaky noise (just in case it was the shock itself) but as I can't get either shock to make a noise now, I'm guessing we've resolved the issue. I can't be bothered testing in this heat today so I'm taking a rest day from the pedalling and will ponder what I do next.
We can call this a stealth advertisement for a 210*55 dpx2 if you like lol.
Pity its not the 210 x 52.5 that you bought earlier or I would have been very tempted
Lol it easily can be, that's on the boys bike but arguably he should run 210*55 according to bikeyoke
Let me know either way
@weeksy - I know you like playing around with bike bits and I’m exactly the same. I’ve been thinking for ages about a Cane Creek db air Il or db coil il- thinking it might give me ’more’ of something. Been riding the A7 quite a bit more recently rather than the hardtail and appreciating the rear suspension more and more.
A few rides ago I stuck a new C1 RS airshaft in the Lyrik - 150mm travel vs the B1 140mm one I had in there before. Generally uphill it’s much the same - other than on the steepest climbs it’s lifting the front wheel a little earlier. But on downhills it’s a beast - keep getting pb’s at the moment on trails I’ve ridden a fair amount. The standard shock just with megneg airshaft is doing a fantastic job - feels quite plush but also still poppy on jumps. I think I’m just going to stick with it for now - I’m not sure what more I could get out of it.
Also changed the rear tyre a few times since winter - gone 2.4 dhr2 wt (for the thickest slop) to 2.3 Dhr2 (whilst still mucky but drying a bit) to a 2.4 wt dissector (really decent all round tyre) and now on a 2.6 Slaughter Grid. This latest tyre was in a sale for £12 and I couldn’t resist trying it. For me it’s very light on tread but in the current dry hero dirt conditions it’s awesome. Still got side grip for cornering but the centre tread rolls so fast. Lack of breaking grip on steep stuff the main issue when it gets wet I think.
I decided to keep the Rockshox Deluxe R shock for mine, part of the reason was because i'm not unhappy with it, but also we have 4 shocks currently,
2 are 210*55 and 2 are 210*52.5. Now we CAN run 52.5's on either bike.... but arguably it should be 55... I had a buyer (the lady who sold us the Sworks actually) who wanted the 52.5 in particular, so my lad now has the 210*55 DPX2 that arrived from Bird yesterday and i have the Deluxe R in a 55 fitted on mine. Happy with that and think it's the right move. Didn't lose any money on the DPX2, arguably i could have sold for more, but she did me a favour on the bike so happy to sell for what i paid (arguably i did lost postage lol... no biggy)
We're off to Swinley Summit jumping at the weekend, i've got a few little targets in mind for me and the Bird, one of them being a drop i've not ridden off yet... i've ridden off it's smaller brother, but not this one which is about another 18" added.
@joebristol
Funny you mention tyre type things, i'm actually thinking "should i get some fast rolling rubber and a 2nd set of wheels for faster XC type days. There's not many days out where i would massively benefit from them, but some, I'm currently running the standard WTBs that came on the G-160 along with Specialized Butchers in 2.35s... So maybe something light and fast for things like Snowdon would be a plan.
Won't you want strong and robust coming down Snowdon?
Won’t you want strong and robust coming down Snowdon?
Never been to Snowdon 🙂
I assumed it was a gravel path up and down.
Nor me but all the descriptions I looked at when planning a trip suggested rocky.
I don’t think I’d go massively light on casings for Snowdon to be honest - it’s not gravel up and down. Llanberis is fine as you’re going slow up anyway, but Rangers down is loads of rocks as the main surface sticking up at all sorts of angles. I think I did it on my Aeris 145LT - it had a DHF 2.5wt exo 3c front tyre and a WTB Tough/Fast Trailboss on the back. I only got that wtb as I was doing Antur Stiniog the day before and wasn’t sure if an Exo would have survived. In hindsight I think an aggressor would probably have been ok but would have run a little more pressure in it.
I cba with 2 different wheel sets as then you either need to swap the cassette or run 2 cassettes and 2 chains etc really. Dhf on the front for 2-3 seasons of the year with a Magic Mary 2.6 / Hillbilly 2.6 in the slop. It’s back tyres I tend to mess about with more really.
I have read recently that much of the Rangers path had been sanitised. I'm not entirely sure what this means or how much has been covered, but a few on here not so long ago expressed the view that it probably wasn't worth it anymore.
@weeksy How do you get on with the large frame? I'm also dead on 6 foot and I'm about to order a frame, the size chart shows me plumb in the middle of M/ but my last full sus was a Large Giant Reign and the M/L seems a little shorter in ETT even if the reach is a little longer. I always found the Reign a bit short when seated so wonder if the large Aether might be a better fit. I doubt I'll get a demo ride anytime soon and I'm impatient to buy...
TBH matey, it's a toughie to answer. The L feels long to me coming from the G160 and arguably low too LOL... however that's how they are and how they come of course. Physical size i'm happy. I do find at times i run a little wide on a few turns because of the geomtry/handling, but nothing i can't work with.
I didn't try the M/L though i must admit.
Ah cool, I think of Whytes as being quite long so I think if you're finding an L to feel longer I'll probably go for the M/L.
Shall get the order in!
Just to add the reason the ett is shorter despite the longer reach is likely to be the steep seat tube angle. So w lot of bikes feel great stood up but a bit short sat down. Not sure what the answer is really - other than slide you saddle back. The steep seat angle is to help in winch and plummet style tech climbs more then anything else.
“ The L feels long to me coming from the G160 and arguably low too LOL… however that’s how they are and how they come of course”
If you mean that the bars feel too low and too far away, stick some more spacers under the stem or swap to a higher rise bar - that’ll neatly fix both issues.
Just chiming in, but I’m similarly between sizes at 5’8 and I opted to size down for my 9c (similar geo apart from the higher stack).
I demoed the ML and the M at Swinley. ML felt nice and stable going straight down, but I was wrestling it in the corners (up, down and flat) and wasn’t weighting it well. I gave it a good go but never felt confident on it. The M felt great, and now I own one I don’t ever miss the extra stability of the longer bike. If anything, perhaps because I can weight it easily, my M now feels more stable to me than the ML did on demo.
I have a long torso and shorter arms and legs, so ymmv.
Edit: I’m also very much not fast 😀
I bought and fitted the Brand X dropper, tested it in the road, then removed it and put on the classifieds.
I just prefer the Magura Vyron, so ordered a new one.
Seriously, you could have given it a bit more chance than a quick go in the road! It’s just a dropper rather than being something like a fork / shock where you need good damping etc. A dropper just goes up and down - needs to do nothing more than that......other than keep going with as little maintenance as possible.