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I have a cube acid 2016 29er which has a fairly steep head angle of 69.5degrees and a 100MM travel Manitou air fork. Nobby nic 2.35's
Also I have a giant trance 29er 2014 120mm travel again fairly steep at 69.5 degrees. Nobby nic 2.35's again.
I have only crashed the trance by attempting very steep technical DH stuff however it seems I keep crashing the XC bike at trail centres (and at speed). I've been riding trail for 3 years
Basically I was descending (of course) and doing the last bend at llandegla and it was icey, I don't remember much as it seemed to happen way to quickly but I hit the deck and when I studied the bike my front wheel was VERY bent (needed replacing) and the handle bars were pointing the same direction as the front wheel.
Its been a few months since then and I've done llandegla a few more times with no issues. Today however on one of the last descents on the monkey trial at Cannock EXACTLY the same thing happened, almost no warning and i'm picking myself and bike off the floor which the wheel bent to buggery (needs replacing) except this time there is massive amounts of damage to the stuff on my bars from the impact.
I wasn't doing anything to difficult, It was just loose and gravelly.
yes the stem was VERY tight onto the steerer. I had to loosen it to straighten the bars!
Before I give up riding the XC bike (which I really enjoy) has anyone any ideas on what I might be doing wrong?
The only thing I can think of is perhaps I'm over correcting when the front end slips? The cubes steering is much faster than my giant's.
Please help
thanks
Christian
Slow down on the xc bike and consider a skills course?
Sadly your bike has roadie geometry, popularised by XC racers in the '90s.
Thankfully manufacturers are gradually realising this and moving slowly towards mountain bike geometry, like bikes had back in the 1930s. ๐
Lean the bike, not you??
Stop over thinking it.
Everyone crashes.
Take a skills course. Don't listen to anyone on here (99.9% of people who post don't actually ride a bike)
Would geo help at all? Make it more forgiving perhaps?
With the giant i feel it warns me if i start to steer to sharply but i dont seem to get that on the cube... i might even be barking up the wrong tree?
Nope.
And nope. Get a skills course booked. Geo will make duck all difference. Learn to ride properly and know your limitations.
Take more care in icey conditions. Take more care in loose gravely conditions. Ride more.
OEM tyres? Could be super plasticky with little grip? Having worked in a shop selling cube that's what I'd put my money on if it's as you bought it.
+1 on tyres
The cube ones will be the crap version
I had already replaced them for the pacestar version tho ๐
The first crash was on the rubbish versions
Tbh ive kinda been on a 2 year skills course with my brother as hes a much better rider than most
Cookci I am a frigging awesome ride (ish ha) Much better than my brother. But a skills course with an independent third party who does not know you at all is well worth it. My brother went on one (despite riding with me for 10 years) and he learnt stuff and does stuff that he had no idea he could do (and to be fair I thought he could not do).
brother as hes a much better rider than most
Pics or it didn't happen
Everyone crashes occasionally. You probably aren't doing anything wrong. Play on some technical stuff on the xc bike to get a feel for how to ride it. Different bike may require alteration to technique. Full suss can be different to hardtails. I switch between rigid singlespped and long travel hardtail and the difference is massive.
I'd suggest looking at bar width and stem. Wide bars do make a bike feel more stable and slow everything down. Stem length can alter your weight as well changing how things feel.
Tyre pressure, or wear? Good tyres pumped up to 50psi probably won't grip as well as bad tyres run at 30.
Everyone crashes occasionally
Can confirm, I crashed on my xc bike yesterday. That big branch jumped out at me I swear.
My perspective on this is that you need more weight over the front end.
XC bikes can understeer if the front is unweighted. I know I've had to teach myself to load up the front of my scalpel to prevent understeer. You may be the same of you have have a totally different issue.
As your brother is awesome.And genetics and stuff.
Obviously,it must be aliens.It's the only rational explanation.
What bar/stem combos do you have on each bike?
And what fork?
Steep head angle, bendy wheels n fork, long stem, short offset - all can add to oversteer and front wheel washing out
^^ happened to me in my Anthem 29er today, dusty trail, left hand band negative camber. Rocket Ron 22psi.
Shit happens.
I crashed today as well - like you at Cannock. Bloody forks dived and pitched me over the bars. Used all 150mm travel tossing me onto a pointy rock using my pelvis as a cushion,..
Tbh ive kinda been on a 2 year skills course with my brother as hes a much better rider than most
Run along and ask your brother then...
You keep crashing on your worse bike, riding things that'd be easy on your good bike? Seems pretty straightforward that. I was out on my xc bike today and it's like stepping back in time, it's good at its job though (riding up hills really fast)
It's all in the riding position. Bars too low, too far forward perhaps, saddle to far forward putting your weight forward.
Try a shorter stem, higher stem, saddle further back, more air in forks, get your weight back in corners or maybe forward depending on the corner.
Loads of things to try with your bike and your body language. Riding a bike off-road on anything other than a smooth climb is all to do with moving your body around. You can't simply sit in the saddle, lean a bit and turn the bars.
Watch some videos perhaps.
Its a Manitou M30 100mm fork 700mm bars with 70mm stem.
Giant has 725mm bars with 60mm stem.
Steering feels much faster to me on the Cube.
what does left hand band negative camber mean?
A) When mtb'ing you either mince down or fall off sometimes. You can even fall off when mincing if not concentrating.
B) Ice is slippy. Loose gravel is slippy. Go figure.
C) Make sure you are leaning the bike not yourself - if your weight is inside the bike when it starts to slide your weight will exaggerate it and you'll go down. If your weight is outside the bike it'll slide more under you and you've a better chance keeping it upright.
[i](note that point C is easier said than done and one day maybe i'll master my own advice)[/i]
Only two crashes, several months apart. You're not trying hard enough.
Seriously.
Bend turns left but slopes to the right - the opposite of a berm. When turning left weight your left hand and right foot maybe I not a pro or dun ze skilz cors.
get your weight back in corners or maybe forward
Best advice......[b]EVER[/b]
Or buy an [b]undo[/b] button.
So crashing less on the skills compensator vs the one that needs skills?
Moar skillz ๐
But more seriously, sounds like losing grip on loose corners? That's an outside foot down, lean the bike etc kind of thing.
and probably wrong tyres ๐
get your weight back in corners or maybe forwardBest advice......EVER
Without knowing the bike, the corner or the speed it's impossible to say which. My post was meant to say 'experiment with different weight positions and see what feels stable'.
I still think that's sound advice.
From what you posted wrong weight balance on the front, you either pushed it too hard or unweighted too much causing it to skip out. Discount the icy one as not much sticks to ice.
Did you have a saddle right up you on the XC bike? That never helps.
+1 For a good skills course, does your brother ride with you and follow you giving helpful commentary or is he riding for his own fun?
I'm about to grab my XC bike out of storage as I'm racing on it this weekend, will take a bit of adjustment from the 160mm Enduro Sled I've been riding (hell at least it's fluro yellow which will help) but accepting it's different and requires more skill to ride harder is one of the adjustments.
Ironically I would have been riding it for the last couple of weeks but a silly crash through some dusty hardpack left me a little too tender for the 100mm bone shaker experience.
Did you have a saddle right up you on the XC bike? That never helps
A well set-up bike should be fine with the saddle up, imo. Droppers help to get fast on rough stuff, also really help with long travel bikes, but aren't at all essential for normal singletrack.
Weight distribution is everything. And bike set-up enables that.
I can move my weight around much more comfortable without a saddle restricting me. It may be possible to deal with it but it's not ideal especially if your pushing your skills. It very quickly removes options for going forward/backwards easily which when you finding the limits and grip combinations is essential and means the small movements that can save a situation might not work out.
(pointless pic oif XC rider crashing on what looks like uphill ๐ )
[img]
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No wonder he wiped out. Look at that stem! ๐
A longer stem will increase stability and reduce twitchiness. Try that.
Tbh ive kinda been on a 2 year skills course with my brother as hes a much better rider than most
Being a good rider has nothing to do with him being a good instructor and knowing how to impart techniques especially for you.
Hang on a mo. I'm not convinced that wheels should be trashed by that kind of crash. Was the replacement particularly cheap or lightweight, and folded causing the crash, not as a result?
Having said that, Cannock was sketchy at the weekend. Incredibly dry and dusty.
Your geometry is not the reason - my Sanderson has similar geometry, and many DH bikes were that steep back in the day.
Sounds like both oops and perhaps a proper skillz in cornerz coaching session needed.
Are you sure that the reason for both crashes was not the front wheel buckling? It's pretty strange for a wheel to collapse after losing grip unless it's had a direct impact. Could the reason for both crashes have been the failure of the front wheel?
Are you sure that the reason for both crashes was not the front wheel buckling? It's pretty strange for a wheel to collapse after losing grip unless it's had a direct impact. Could the reason for both crashes have been the failure of the front wheel?
It had crossed my mind
initially I was using alexrim ZX24 (came with the bike) but replaced those rims (myself) with WTB i19.
I've ridden with these Rims a number of times on rockier terrain and they were still running perfectly true. I gave the spokes a flick before I started to check they were still ok (not very scientific I know).
I don't really remember much and not sure exactly where it happened (it was on one of the final descents and out in the open with no trees) but I do know I didn't hit anything (as there was nothing to hit) and I was going pretty quick and riding it pretty hard.
I cannot get my head around how the wheel is so bent from an understeer and was questioning really if its possible that I bent the wheel by overcorrecting the front wheel sliding?
I've seen front wheels buckle like you're describing, usually it's where the front wheel loses grip and you jerk the bars and grab the brake pitching you over the front. With the front wheel now 90 degrees to the forces of you braking and trying to stay behind the wheel/bars, the wheel is now in it's weakest orientation so the rim is likely to buckle.
What you need to do to rectify it hard to say. Cheapest option is to try and adapt your riding position, be that by swapping stem spacers or just staying more forward over the bars when doing whatever it was when you had your crashes, to maintain traction.