Struggling for grip, especially in the very wet and at high speed, for whatever reason they just dont fill me with confidence.
Its late, i am bored
No never, he hee.
Seriously they're a bit sketchy in wet mud to say the least, if you want more fun put a 2.1" on the back and this will result in the back end moving around loads so the front feels planted.
Nevegals are better ime as are bonty jones acx and maxxis advantages
Maxxis AdVantage FTW
I'm liking Bontrager Big Earls at the mo.
I have a 42a super tacky on the front and I can't see anybody struggling for grip with one of those.
what size and compound are you using?
2.3 60 a i think
i am running nobby nics 2.25 and work for me in this weather
I've just changed to the High Roller super tacky downhill after some sketchy tyres.
How did you get no grip?
I FOUND LOADS.................but i paid the price in shed loads of drag that nearly killed me!
Back to the drawing board!
I'm looking for the happy medium!
"42a super tacky on the front and I can't see anybody struggling for grip with one of those"
No, but they may well be struggling for speed on anything where pedalling is involved
60a 2.35" HRs are okay, and suprisingly good on smooth stuff. I assume its the ramps. I find at this time of year the the width, depth and chunkiness digs into the slop and while they mostly grip quite well (the ramps will slip out under pedalling though) they're just very draggy
If you don't want to resort to the all out stickiness of a 42a supertacky high roller/minion/swampthing, you could try a Kenda Nevegal or Blue Groove in the StickE compound (I believe is 50a)? A 2.1" Nevegal is a touch narrower than a 2.35" HR, a Blue Groove (a little chunkier, a touch narrower again)
nevegal 2.35 are great. the only problem is they're hard to get hold of a the minute. what is the specialized tyre that chipps was raving about?
Struggling for grip, especially in the very wet and at high speed, for whatever reason they just dont fill me with confidence.
Does any mountain bike tyre in these conditions?
DH width high rollers are the grippiest tyres I've used, an in a variety of conditions. Sure you can get better condition specific tyres, such as Maxxis Swamp Things or Wet Screams for full on mud, but as an all round tyre, nothing beats the High Rollers really...
Except in the weight and drag stakes of course!
turn them round
Bonty Mud X?
Panaracer Trailraker?
Conti Rubberqueen 2.4
You could try a 'dedicated' mud tyre like a schwable black shark?
I know it's a little more expensive than changing the tyres, but you could put a Cane Creek Double Barrel on the bike. That would give you so much grip you'd think you were riding in the dry.
Seriously though, I just rode one for the first time today on a bike I've ridden with a regular Fox DHX Air and the grip is just immense.
Who needs the perfect tyre for wet conditions? It's much more fun, and better for your skills, to be sliding a round 
Try some really worn Conti Speed Kings on wet slush - then put your other tyres back on and they'll feel like miracle workers. You are welcome to borrow my Conti's.
I swapped my high roller rear for a minion rear and found a vast improvemet in grip. Both were 60a's. High rollers are too ramped to dig in especially when trying to put power down on climbs (mine constantly spun under me).
Riding Specialised "The Captain" 2.0 front and rear at present. Seems a fairly happy medium. Not too slidey in the mud and not a vast amount of drag. Decent clearance too.
trailrakers are the king of mud tyres - swapped over from High Rollers.
geetee1972 - considering saving for a Cane Creek DB but still trying to convince myself on the cost. Will be going from a 5th element on a 5. I'm not the most technically gifted of riders so wondering if it will make much difference/make it too easy for me.
Bontrager for me!
Big Earls (Front+Rear - Summer)
Mud x (Rear - Winter)
Can go tubeless and decent price as well.
Think of it like this: say you bought a Fox Float RP23 and it cost £330. Then a few months later you want to up the ante again so you send it away for service and perhaps a custom tune, which costs you around £130. So then your £330 damper has now cost you £460, which is still less than the Cane Creek (£550) but you're still no were near its performance.
Even if you went for a DHX 5 and had it custom tuned, it's still going to cost around £400.
Having spent one day riding the CCDB, I am convinced that its performance more than justifies its price tag, but its price tag is still, reltively speaking, quite high.
If I couldn't 'afford' the CCDB (as opposed to justify the price to performance ratio) then I would buy a Push tuned Fox Van R as it's amazing value for money.
As for whether the CCDB will make much difference/make it too easy for you, I think it would make a difference although I know some people who haven't felt the benefit, perhaps because they aren't riding DH all that fast. As for making it too easy, it's likely to make things harder as you're going to be carrying far more speed than normal and you may find yourself getting into trouble as a result. But then, that's how you get better!
geetee, I like your logic. I had worked out the marginal extra and figured it would be worth it. Think I'll go for the steel spring and lose a few lbs round my waist. Just booked a week in the Alps so will get its test run there but need some time to fine tune /understand it.
I think its a physcological thing, spending more on a rear shock than my 1st hardtail.